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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Should you change your oil on the 2005 Goat after the first 500 miles? and when after that? And is it okay to take the Goat to Meineke instead of Pontiac for the oil change? And lastly, what type of oil should be used? Thanks for the help
 
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MACHINE HEAD said:
Should you change your oil on the 2005 Goat after the first 500 miles? and when after that? And is it okay to take the Goat to Meineke instead of Pontiac for the oil change? And lastly, what type of oil should be used? Thanks for the help
You don't have to change it at 500, but it wouldn't hurt.

You need to use Mobil1 or an equivalent.

Meineke is fine, just be sure that they use the correct oil. (You should ask if you can bring your own oil and filter, as lube shops use the low grade filters) Just be sure to keep your reciepts for warranty reasons
 

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I'm changing mine at 500,plan on using Mobile 1 and a Mobile 1 oil filter
I don't trust those quicky oil change places,a friend of mine had his WS6 engine ruined because they put the wrong filter on the car....although they did pay for a new engine
 

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Technically with the synthetic we can go 5000 miles with our high compression engine.

However I changed mine at 500 miles and change it every three months(mine is not a daily driver). Some guys are just switching the oil filter at 3000 and changing every 5-6000 miles. Its all personal opinion at that point. Iwould also say its dependent on how hard you drive it.
 

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Jeffs386 said:
I'm changing mine at 500,plan on using Mobile 1 and a Mobile 1 oil filter
I don't trust those quicky oil change places,a friend of mine had his WS6 engine ruined because they put the wrong filter on the car....although they did pay for a new engine

What a nice group of T&A
 

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dealernut said:
Technically with the synthetic we can go 5000 miles with our high compression engine.

However I changed mine at 500 miles and change it every three months(mine is not a daily driver). Some guys are just switching the oil filter at 3000 and changing every 5-6000 miles. Its all personal opinion at that point. Iwould also say its dependent on how hard you drive it.
Will it hurt to go 3K until the first oil change?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
what is the difference between Mobil 1 oil and regular oil? What is the difference between a Mobil 1 filter and a regular filter? and do you buy Mobil 1 oil and filter at Mobil Gas station? Lastly, does Mobil1 oil last much longer than regular oil?
 

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MACHINE HEAD said:
what is the difference between Mobil 1 oil and regular oil? What is the difference between a Mobil 1 filter and a regular filter? and do you buy Mobil 1 oil and filter at Mobil Gas station? Lastly, does Mobil1 oil last much longer than regular oil?
Here is some info on oils that you may find helpful:
All synthetics are not equal. The API has not come out and defined what is "synthetic", but rather, classified oils into five major groups.

Group I base oils are the least refined of all of the groups. They are usually a mix of different hydrocarbon chains with little or no uniformity. While some automotive oils use these stocks, they are generally used in less demanding applications.

Group II base oils are common in mineral based motor oils. They have fair to good performance in the areas of volatility, oxidation stability, wear prevention and flash/fire points. They have only fair performance in areas such as pour point and cold crank viscosity. Group II base stocks are what the majority of engine oils are made from. 3000 mile oil changes are the norm.

Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of refining of all the mineral oil stocks. Although not chemically engineered, they offer improved performance in a wide range of areas as well as good molecular uniformity and stability. By definition they are considered a synthesized material and can be used in the production of synthetic and semi-synthetic lubricants. Group III is used in the vast majority of full synthetics or synthetic blends. They are superior to group I and II oils but still have limitations. Some formulations are designed for extended oil changes. AMSOIL XL Motor Oils, Castrol Syntec and many others fall into this category.

Group IV are polyalphaolefins (PAO) which are a chemically engineered synthesized basestocks. PAOs offer excellent stability, molecular uniformity and performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. AMSOIL SAE Synthetic Motor Oils and Mobil 1 primarily use group IV basestocks. PAO is a much more expensive basestock than the highly refined petroleum oil basestock of Group III.

Group V base oils are also chemically engineered stocks that do not full into any of the categories previously mentioned. Typical examples of group V stocks are Esters, polyglycols and silicone. Redline uses an ester basestock.

In the 90s, Mobil filed suit against Castrol for falsely advertising Syntec oil as synthetic, when in fact it contained a Group III, highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil, instead of a chemically synthesized (group IV or V) basestock. Due to the amount that the mineral oil had been chemically changed, the judge decided in Castrol's favor. As a result, any oil containing this highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil (currently called Group III basestock by the American Petroleum Institute) can market themselves as a synthetic oil. Since the original synthetic basestock (polyalphaolefin or PAO) is much more expensive than the Group III basestock, most of the oil blenders switched to the Group III basestock, which significantly increased their profit margins.

Oil filters are also not all alike. All oil filters are not made of the same filtration media. Some use paper media, some use a synthetic cellulose blend, some use a full synthetic media. How long they last varies. How well they flow varies. How well they filter impurities varies. How well they store impurities varies. In general, a filter that flows well, doesn't filter well and visa versa. For a race motor, higher flow is better. For a street driven car you intend on keeping a long time, filtration is probably more important. For a car like the GTO, a middle ground with above average flow and filtration should be considered. The Mobil 1 is a good filter, with good filtration and decent flow. The K&N flows better, but filters worse. The old AMSOIL SDF flowed better and filtered better than the Mobil 1 fitler. However, AMSOIL just released a new line of filters that flows well, but filters superbly, the AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter (correct part number for the GTO is EAO32).

Some good info on filters can be found on this guy's site:
http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/
:cheers
 

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Personally, I believe in changing the oil and filter as soon as you get home from the dealers (or to your favorite oil change facility or garage) as all the goop and crud left in the engine from building and assembly should have migrated to the filter by then. Then go out and seat the rings properly - which is about all there is to break in on a new engine nowdays. Then change the oil and filter again and after that you can go with the 3k or so interval, or whatever you prefer.

I use Shell Rotella T - full synth - 5W/40 in everything and have had excellent luck with it. It is a diesel rated oil and has more of the desirable additives in it than a lot of car oils. Also pretty competetively priced at Wal-Mart or Sam's Club.

Read this on break-in - applies to cars as well as bikes.

http://www.mototuneusa.com

Scroll down to the break in section.
 

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These come from the factory with Mobile 1 which is outstanding. I changed mine the first time at 2,500 miles and then at 5,000 mile intervals. Always Mobile 1, official oil of NASCAR. I do use a quick change place (Pennzoil) where I know the guy who runs it and he's a gearhead too so I know it will be done right. Pennzoil has its own private label filters and I'm sure they're fine. I just can't wait at a dealership for a simple oil change and since I sold my service station many years ago I don't turn wrenches any more either.


JET
 

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i change mine religiously every 3000 miles with Mobil1 and ac delco filter. i change my own too i don't trust those quicky change places or the dealership. a buddy of mine works at one and he said they are so pushed for time that they barely let the oil drain so there is still old oil in there.
 

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MACHINE HEAD said:
Should you change your oil on the 2005 Goat after the first 500 miles? and when after that? And is it okay to take the Goat to Meineke instead of Pontiac for the oil change? And lastly, what type of oil should be used? Thanks for the help
Has anyone read the owners manual? It says the computer calculates oil life and tells you when to change it. They said it could be up to a year!!! I have 5500 miles on my 05 and am already 3 or 4 quarts low.
 

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Houston, We have a problem.
I hope that your not running 3 or 4 Qts. low. In any case, don't chance it. Change the oil before you have to change the engine bearings. It's not worth the money saved. Like the old commercial - You can pay me now or you can pay me latter.
 

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QSGTO said:
Has anyone read the owners manual? It says the computer calculates oil life and tells you when to change it. They said it could be up to a year!!! I have 5500 miles on my 05 and am already 3 or 4 quarts low.
I hope you mean that you've had to add 3-4 makeup quarts to keep it in band. The oil life monitor won't protect your engine from low oil levels. The oil must be in the normal band or you are risking serious engine damage.

3-4 quarts of makeup oil in 5500 miles is pretty high though...

However, I think the point of this thread is not whether you should follow the oil life monitor or not, but should you follow it for the first oil change. Many people, myself included, like an early oil change to get any impurities that may be left over from manufacturing out, getting fresh oil and a clean filter instead. After my first oil change, then I'd be comfortable following the oil life monitor.

xxpontiacgtoxx said:
use amsoil great product a+++
Thanks!
 

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there is a "change your oil " light that comes on a beeps if you let the oil in for too long...i think its based on time ?? as mine went off at 7000 miles and i have changed it twice.. in that time...so i changed it..and to turn off the warning, you have to shut everything off in the car, and then turn the key on, and fully depress the throttle 3 times quickly... hope this helps someone??:cheers
 
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