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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
'Mornin' awesome folks............looking at my oil pan I note a couple holes that are 'pressed down'......ie the bolts were too tight...........what is the best way to restore the surface to flat? odd...there's like a bit less than and 1/8" gap on one side and I can rock the pan side to side. this can't me normal with no gasket in place...dam it :suspicious:
thanks as always
Tk :patriot:
 

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64-67 Expert
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8,569 Posts
Top, you need to take the round end of a ball peen hammer and tap the center of the holes back down flat with the rest of the pan. This is SOP for any oil pan or trans pan. It'll restore the trueness of the runner and let it seal. Keep at it until the pan is flat. Small taps, not monkey taps.
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks G, I got my new too cool 3/4'' brass drift and with a small hammer and a super flat garage floor removed all the 'bowing' to the holes. it still wobbles on the block. I tried putting all the bolts in the pan to block (no gasket of course) and there was one area between 2 holes where I could slide I metal ruler into :(
I took the thing down to napa auto parts and they suggested a piece of steel.......the man said a couple of the areas look slightly "rolled"
I wish I had like a 3/8'' wide block of steel........might be able to find a piece at work....Is this a legit tactic?
thanks as always
Tk
 

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Former Moderator
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2,895 Posts
Ya, best if you have a flat surface to "back up" your hammer when you try to flatten the pan rail. You've got the right idea Tk, and even though sometimes your questions are "scary" :eek2: you ask the right ones. Glad to see you are asking them at all actually and shows that you want to do it right. You'll get it. :thumbsup:

Has a sip of strawberry Moonshine as he checks the autospell.......
 

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64-67 Expert
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8,569 Posts
What Alky said. I straighten my pans rail side up: put the lip against the edge of a workbench or piece of wood and actually peen the hole from the TOP side. Sounds like you put the flange side of the pan on the floor and hit it from the bottom. Either way works. Yes, you need a 'dolly' to work your pan. You can use a punch, or a socket on it's side, or a piece of metal, or whatever. But you are absolutely right in getting it straight. If it's straight, it won't leak.
 

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I use a 1/2" drive extension from a socket set as a dolly. I put it in the vise straight up, and slide the pan rail from hole to hole. This also works for valve covers.
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys......hate to beat further on a dying horse....... The restoration guide calls for 'neopreme tabs on the 4 areas in the picture.
guessing a pea sized dab of sealant on the 4 point will suffice?
thanks as always
Tk
 

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