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me and my brother are working on getting my dads 66 (389, 4bbl, 4 speed)
running again its been siting in the garage and hasn't been started since probly the mid seventys. He insists that we need to use this valvoline racing oil (i think its 40 weight) that is from like the 70s, its in a round can hasnt been opened, but i was wondering if any of you guys have some recomendations for what to use instead of this oil
 

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For oil, just go pick up some 10w30 and replace it after 500 miles or so with some fresh oil.

Did you do the other stuff required?
 

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toms66goat said:
me and my brother are working on getting my dads 66 (389, 4bbl, 4 speed)
running again its been siting in the garage and hasn't been started since probly the mid seventys. He insists that we need to use this valvoline racing oil (i think its 40 weight) that is from like the 70s, its in a round can hasnt been opened, but i was wondering if any of you guys have some recomendations for what to use instead of this oil

I wouldn't use it.....

I would think any high quality oil would suffice. 5 or 10 W 30. 40W IMO is a little too thick.
 

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Mike_V said:
Did you do the other stuff required?
This is what we have done so far tell me if im missing something:

rebuilt carb
new fuel tank and fuel lines
new plugs wires cap rotor and points
new valve cover,oil pan gaskets
new front and rear oil seals
changed differential lube
new tranny seals
new tranny lube
new clutch
flushed radiator
new belts and hoses
new brakes all around

thats all i i can think of right now but it seems like we ve done more than that
 

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Mike_V said:
For oil, just go pick up some 10w30 and replace it after 500 miles or so with some fresh oil.
Nope. If the engine is just getting running again, and it hasn't been opend up and rebuilt you gotta use a 20w oil, maybe 30w (careful). 5w and 10w are out of the question. Even when you do rebuild an old poncho motor, you can't use 5w on the street. Cause those old motors, when they aren't fresh, like to burn a hell of a lot of oil, and gaskets and rings might not be what they used to be. That little extra weight and viscosity keeps the oil from going into your cylinders and puffing out the dreaded old car grey smoke. After a rebuild, take the old pontiac on the freeway and get ready for your oil to just evaporate in a matter of hours. Trust me I know the old motors fairly well. I ain't jim hand, but old pontiacs have been all I have driven, my dad has owned at least a dozen 60s-70s pontiacs, even my younger bro has an old pontiac. Remember what GTO stands for Gas, Tires and OIL!!! Rebuilt change at 500, if it isn't rebuilt, you won't have to change the oil after 500 miles cause you will have already added two quarts to keep it full.

20w50 is a good oil. You can go to 10w30 on fully rebuilt motors. Don't use the old stuff.
 

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The_Goat said:
What weight oil goes in the differential? I'm thinking of replacing it with RP. Also, anyone know capacity?

I believe 3pts for the 64-66. Weight is somewhere around 70-90w, it depends on what diffi is in there and the usage.
 

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toms66goat said:
This is what we have done so far tell me if im missing something:

rebuilt carb
new fuel tank and fuel lines
new plugs wires cap rotor and points
new valve cover,oil pan gaskets
new front and rear oil seals
changed differential lube
new tranny seals
new tranny lube
new clutch
flushed radiator
new belts and hoses
new brakes all around

thats all i i can think of right now but it seems like we ve done more than that
Well, I wouldn't go with too heavy of any oil. You'll need to change it again at about 500 anyway.

Before you start it, you can get cylinder oil from a parts store. Put a little down each plug hole. Then, before you start it, manually crank it. You can use the starter if you're not worried about burning it out. This will make sure everything’s freed and lubed before the stress of combustion. Oh, and also make sure you clean the hell out of the ground and its contact point.

I have a few cars in storage. I got them ready once before, and I did the same items you’ve covered and the above. Don’t be shocked if it runs rough as hell at first. If it keeps running rough, give it a full tune up, to include a new distributor cap. It’s common for plastics to crack after sitting.

What about some pics?
 

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Mike_V said:
Well, I wouldn't go with too heavy of any oil. You'll need to change it again at about 500 anyway.

Before you start it, you can get cylinder oil from a parts store. Put a little down each plug hole. Then, before you start it, manually crank it. You can use the starter if you're not worried about burning it out. This will make sure everything’s freed and lubed before the stress of combustion. Oh, and also make sure you clean the hell out of the ground and its contact point.

I have a few cars in storage. I got them ready once before, and I did the same items you’ve covered and the above. Don’t be shocked if it runs rough as hell at first. If it keeps running rough, give it a full tune up, to include a new distributor cap. It’s common for plastics to crack after sitting.

What about some pics?
hey, mike.:agree the older motors used 10w40, but 20w50 is what most use. not good for the winter. I'm shore she wont she it. 20w50 cling better, but still flows good when warm. if it's been stored for that long,I'd run her for 100miles or intill been at operating temp, for 1 hour then change the oil again. there could be alot of cabon that fell from the valley pan and the outside of the cylinder walls. had motors so bad I'd fill in up with diesel runit for 10-15 min. drain it fill with oil run for 1 hour change it again. hope it helps. sound like you have a sweet ride enjoy.
 

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Man, diesel, you're hardcore. How long were those things sitting? Were they from a salvage yard?

Damn, I want pictures of this car. He's just going to leave us hanging.
 

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was a 305 out of 85 k5 blazer.(quaker state motor) 75,000 mi. had chunks of carbon pluging up the drain plug. the fuel was like tar when I drained it.used the motor in my 87 buick reagel .put 20000 mi. on it sold it to a guy I think it's still in his truck today, been awhile since I talked to him. he's back in boon town-hillbillyville new york.last I new it had 215000mi. on it. I ended building a 350 4 bolt main .30 over 202. valves. 350 turbo trany, heavy duty shift kit on the line. lots more ether way she flew. loved that car. any way if it's bad use fuel oil. as it states it's oil. old farmer told me to try this, 1 smart old guy.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mike_V said:
Man, diesel, you're hardcore. How long were those things sitting? Were they from a salvage yard?

Damn, I want pictures of this car. He's just going to leave us hanging.
I'll get pics in about a week or so dad just ordered 4 new redline tires and were getting the rims powdercoated so its up on jackstands right now
 

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toms66goat said:
I'll get pics in about a week or so dad just ordered 4 new redline tires and were getting the rims powdercoated so its up on jackstands right now
we no care bout stinking stands - lol. Please let's just see it, post at least one pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
except for the list of what weve done too it and one of the headlights and the new tires its 100% original as my dad picked it up from the dealer.
 

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burnz said:
hay, mike you going to the fall cruise, and do you know where abouts utica is.
I looked it up when it was announced. I think I've been there, it's about 1/2 a mile from no f'ing where I think. J/K, never been there. Not sure if I'm going just yet. I wanted to go to Nationals, had the special event plate and everything, but couldn't get away.

You going - for sure?
 

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toms66goat said:
except for the list of what weve done too it and one of the headlights and the new tires its 100% original as my dad picked it up from the dealer.
you have a gem, dont mod it keep it the it is those cars go fo alot.
 
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