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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all you happy people.

My name is Rusty and I just purchased a rusty ole goat.

1968 GTO Aegena Blue(I think?) hardtop with value added raccoon scat and rust in all the normal places... sigh


This was an impulse buy to recapture and old dream. You see I used to have a 68 Cameo Ivory GTO body with no engine or seats. That was a lost dream back when I was 21 years old. I had to give it away.

Maybe I can get back in the stinky goat business with one I just purchased Friday for 2500. The craiglisting is not down yet if you hurry you can see: 1968 Pontiac GTO

:seeya
 

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Discussion Starter #3
what are your plans?
The first thing is going to be to do the brakes and replace the gas tank / fuel pump. Then the adventure continues with the engine. IDK what spec it is but it seems to have erson cams. The color is not right... I need to check the numbers on the block. Judging from the sticker on the fire wall it also has a transGO reprogrammed tranny.
 

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Numbers... need some help

Doing my due diligence I have got some numbers to wonder about...

Front passenger side below the head looks to be

0096847
YC​

Best guess is that this was an economy 2bbl 400 290hp with the 2.78 rear end.

Thanks = Wallace Racing-Drag Racing Pontiac powered Firebirds,Trans Ams and Dragsters

It is an automatic with AC... Does the YC make it rare or more common?

Yay Aegena Blue :cool:

That is the color code from the data plate. (EE)

I also see that the production was in Pontiac, Mi on the third week December. (12c)

Here is the quandary... It now has an Edelbrock Intake Manifold and what looks like a 4bbl. Also note the ERSON valve covers that one would presume has some sort of erson cam underneath. The person I purchased it from said that it was running when parked but there was some fuel issues.... Fuel Pump? fuel lines? or was it perhaps the cam aggressiveness?

Any input would help for if it needs a new carburetor should I go with an edelbrock or some other that will fit? Should I try and go back to stock 2bbl?

Just trying to make plans.... See attachments
 

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YC motors were used for numerous years. You need to check the date code by the distributor, ex. d258(8 = year). See pic.....

Data tag
223 - black interior
ST - 68-24237, "42" = GTO
The cars vin should start with a 242 too......

Fuel issues? What you mentioned, also, fuel filter inline/carb, carb is plugged, fuel pickup in tank plugged. You could pull the fuel line at the carb, turn it over to make sure it's pumping good and the gas is clean. Carb looks to be a bit crusty, probably needs to be rebuilt. If carb needs replacing, stick with a 4 barrel....

Congrats on your purchase!

 

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Discussion Starter #7
YC motors were used for numerous years. You need to check the date code by the distributor, ex. d258(8 = year). See pic.....

Data tag
223 - black interior
ST - 68-24237, "42" = GTO
The cars vin should start with a 242 too......


Congrats on your purchase!
Thank you!

The digits in the vin match so this is no clone though I do suspect the front doghouse may have been replaced with a then less then stellar repaint of the car to a color that is NOT Aegena Blue. It will need to be repainted at some point but the inside of the trunk and doors show the original color that I would hope to restore it to... (if I can keep it)

I will try to get a look for those numbers but I have another number to ask about.

Note the rat bites on the plug wires...

7M5

This is on the exhaust. (see attachment) Is this a clue to the heads? When I google it comes up for a 455. If it is a YC 455 would the numbers I need to find be in the same place as your illustration?
 

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Yep, that's the head code. That head came on '72 455's. Here's some info if the heads are original to that block. The numbers in the ill. will be in the same location.

1972 455 250 HP YC A 8.2 067 7M5 1-4 7042262/72 Block Casting # 485428

They're big valves, big cc's, low compression heads...
1972 455 250HP 7M5 2.11/1.77 114cc

In the upper RH corner of your pick is the date code for the heads. Looks like I271? Sept 27 '71 which would have went in a '72 ride......

On the side of the block below the heads you'll probably see the cast displacement. Wouldn't doubt if it said 455.. Possible a 400 with 455 heads.

This thread was moved here, a more appropriate location for more exposure....
 

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Look on the side of the block, down low --- you should find '455' cast into it. Also get the casting number off the block (passenger side, rear, "behind" the head) and the date code (top rear, next to the distributor) to nail it. With the 7m5 though it's looking like it's probably a 455.

Bear
 

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a real GTO for 2500.00 nice score.....looks pretty solid for that price. now all you gotta do is dig up the 20-30K to restore it.....:willy: we are all here to help save her, you came to the right place for real world info.
 

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Saw it sat week on Craigslist and seriously considered running up to Dallas to get it. Then thought about it sitting here for probably several years before I could even think about messing with. Glad I didn't and she got a home that could start loving her sooner. I had a 68 as a kid and wanting to get one again.

Good fixings.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
For $2500, you can't lose! Great find, and good luck with it!!
Thanks


Glad I didn't and she got a home that could start loving her sooner. I had a 68 as a kid and wanting to get one again.

Good fixings.
Did you see what is on there now? 1966 Pontiac Gto

Looks like it is growing into the earth.

Yeah my Cameo Goat did haunt me so I want to get this one running before any major disassemble stuff...

Speaking of things down below have a look. Note the funny little skinny mufflers. (glass packs?) Also am I missing a cover. (lower bell housing?) Sticking my cam up through the hole in the passenger side you can see the nuggets from the previous residents. As I clean this out does this make me a turd burglar? ;)
 

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I just hate to see that level of disrepair. If I ever really do find my original 68 and found it like that or worse wrecked, I'd have a breakdown. Yep flywheel cover. Should be easy enough to find.
 

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Since you don't know what the fuel problem was, when you get it running again, check the hoses. Especially the one from the tank to the hard line. Years ago I bought a 67 Buick for $80 because the PO (and local mechanics) couldn't figure out why the car would not go over 35 mph. It started sucking air at speed and would lean out enough that it maxed out at 35. $1.50 of hose turned it back into a driving car.
 

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Since you don't know what the fuel problem was, when you get it running again, check the hoses. Especially the one from the tank to the hard line. Years ago I bought a 67 Buick for $80 because the PO (and local mechanics) couldn't figure out why the car would not go over 35 mph. It started sucking air at speed and would lean out enough that it maxed out at 35. $1.50 of hose turned it back into a driving car.

:cool I intend to pull the tank and have it cleaned. (hope I can get it out) What is a good way to test the lines? Air pressure?
 

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Yep, that's the head code. That head came on '72 455's. Here's some info if the heads are original to that block. The numbers in the ill. will be in the same location.

1972 455 250 HP YC A 8.2 067 7M5 1-4 7042262/72 Block Casting # 485428

They're big valves, big cc's, low compression heads...
1972 455 250HP 7M5 2.11/1.77 114cc

In the upper RH corner of your pick is the date code for the heads. Looks like I271? Sept 27 '71 which would have went in a '72 ride......

On the side of the block below the heads you'll probably see the cast displacement. Wouldn't doubt if it said 455.. Possible a 400 with 455 heads.
You are correct. 485428

250HP... sigh At least the low compression should mean pump gas with its typical load of BTU robing methanol should not be an issue.

Now the question is what does one do to prepare an engine that has been setting since 1985? Should I open the valve covers and prep things with some kind of oil? (lucas Oil?) Anything else? Or just attach a battery and see if it turns over first?
 

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Engine: verify that it turns over by hand. If it's free, and turns 2 full revolutions, drain the oil and fresh fill with oil of your choice and a ZDDP additive. Crank it for several 10 second intervals with the ignition disabled to get oil pressure up. Then fire it up. I've seen these engines return to life after 20+ years of laying idle. The key is a dry environment and no corrosion in the cooling system. A lot of times, the timing cover, which is aluminum, gets eaten away. If it starts and runs, but starts running hot, suspect a timing cover/water pump erosion issue and repair it.
 

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:agree with what the man done said. Don't let that "250 HP" label bother you too much. There's a lot more hiding in it that can be awakened with the right parts.

Bear
 
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