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Discussion Starter #1
OK, this was suggested for us guys who buy parts for our cars. List the Part highlighted in bold black using the print feature above, then the year application, supplier, and part number, and then your honest comments on finish, fit, and experience in using if it has been installed - pros, cons, tweaks to make it work, or other. I buy parts to add to my "pile" and the parts look good, but I won't be able to comment fully on them until installed and under actual usage - my opinion could easily change. So you can describe what you see, or compare to the original, and let it go at that until it gets installed and used. Then come back and comment. Highlighting in black may help others when doing a Google Custom Search in the upper right hand corner looking for info on a part.

For those who are saying, "How do I highlight in bold black lettering?" Simple. Put your mouse pointer in front of the word, then hold down the left button on the mouse, and drag across the word/letters you want to highlight in bold black. Let up the button once you have highlighted it in "blue" (what I see using Windows) with the mouse pointer. Then put you mouse pointer on the B to highlight it, and click it once and it will highlight your word in bold black. Another way is to do this manually. In front of the word, put a bracket [, followed by the capital letter B, then enclose the B with an opposing bracket ] - so you will have typed [ - B - ] with no spaces in between. Repeat this at the end of the word to be highlighted. Now when you hit the button below to "Preview Post", it should show the part you submitted as being bold black.

BUT, here is the kicker. This is not a thread to trash any supplier. We all have different skill levels, have parts brand preferences, and we also see our cars as those fitting the assorted categories as "rat rods", "daily driver," "25-footer", "50-footer," "original," "restoration," "resto-mod," "show quality," "concours," "street," "street/strip," or "racer." So one brand and/or part may be great for my "rat-rod," but will not cut it on my "concours" quality show car. Price can also be a factor: If I purchase part "X" for $25.00 and the quality is just OK or even cheap, there may be a far better superior and exact original matching part "X" costing $125.00. So, you do get what you pay for most times, but because you wanted an original matching repop, but didn't want to spend $125.00, then shame on you for buying the $25.00 part and coming on this thread and complaining about the quality and that the company sells junk, and they would not give you your money back, blah, blah, blah. DO NOT DO THIS! Keep those comments to yourself, or start another thread and trash the supplier/seller there. Let the reader decide for him/her self if the part is acceptable, or not, for their car/build.

So list anything and everything, from small to big, and preferably with a photo or two so we can see the part. IF you try to download a photo that is too big on the megapixels, you won't be able to. I have a Windows system, so I simply open the photo in the Paint program, and use the resize feature, click on "Pixels" and drop it down to about 480-500 pixels on whatever the largest dimension might be, like an 8" x10", I size down the 10" and the 8" will be automatically sized down to keep proportions correct. Others can typically find a free downsizing program. I also have one of these on another computer for such use.

So add as you feel you want and hopefully an administrator will make this thread a sticky so we can keep it going and have it easily accessible. :thumbsup:

Here is my example: Doohickey, 1968 1/2 only, No name manufacturing, [URL=https://www.gtoforum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1 2379[/URL] . This part is listed as an exact fit to the original, but was not. It was close, but I had to bend the L-bracket in about 1/8" to the left and drill the attachment hole a little largr in order for it to fit correctly. Other than that, a perfect match. Photo #1 is as recieved. Photo #2 is my modifications to make it fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
1968 In-Dash Clock

The 1968 cars used a blue-grey face as opposed to the black face used on 1969 gauges. My '68 Lemans has the filler plate where the clock, or in-dash tach can be fitted. Since I already have a tach I will be mounting on the exterior, I wanted to fill the blank hole with the factory type in-dash clock.

Thus is the reproduction quartz movement clock that you can get from several of the Pontiac parts suppliers. I went with the Parts Place as their price was good and shipping costs fair. Hard to see, but it does include the clear plastic lens over the face. I also purchased their light harness which included the 2 light sockets and a plug-in end to connect to the factory wiring. I am not looking for an original factory clock and then have to send it out to restore to like new condition. For me, this was the easy route and does what I wanted.

Fast shipping and boxed in bubble wrap, so it arrived in good condition. Photo 1 is the front face. Photo 2 is the back housing showing the holes for the 2 light sockets and tab for your power supply. Does it work? Assume it does, but who is going to be looking at the clock when I have a speedometer and tach to keep and eye on? :yesnod: That ugly blank filler plate just had to go and even if the clock were a dud (which I am sure it is not), it still looks better than the filler plate. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Radiator Overflow Tank

Technically called an "Expansion Tank." I wanted to add to my pile of parts an overflow tank, I have yet to buy a radiator and won't do so until I have the engine in the car seeing I will have to fab mounts for my set-up being a non-stock build with fiberglass nose.

You have a number of options if you do a search for a radiator overflow tank. They come in aluminum, stainless steel, chrome, or plastic and in all kinds of sizes and shapes - as well as prices. I wanted a little "shine" on mine and did not want to have to polish an aluminum tank to keep it shiny nor worry about chrome, so stainless steel was for me. I wanted something that would fit alongside my future radiator and be slim, and I wanted a length that would somewhat match the radiator in height which should be about 19".

Speedway Motors is where I got this one. I have bought a number of parts from Speedway and they focus on hotrod builds, so they have a huge selection of parts needed for fabricating or adding-on "stuff." Here are the specs:

2" x 17" stainless steel tank. Mounting brackets are welded to the tank. You get 2 additional stainless steel "L" brackets and nuts & bolts for mounting. The cap is a heavy screw-on cap sealed by an O-ring. Have read of some tanks having the inlet/outlet tubes at the bottom welded at slight angles. These are straight, no issues. Quality look great.

Price is $39.00 plus shipping and tax for a total as delivered of $52.16. Fast shipping and well packaged.

This is going to look good in my engine bay. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Installed new rubber clutch and brake pads along with the trim plates to replace my original worn out pieces.

Installed a new clutch pedal (bushing) rubber snubber. The rubber block was a little too large for my application, so I sanded it down approximately 1/8" to give me a height of 1/2". Trimming, or even eliminating this block can provide additional pedal travel for clutch adjustment if ever needed.

Sourced my parts from OPGI and took advantage of their sale flyer. Fit and quality were perfect. Shipping rates are the killer so I try to order a number of items. Also bought the brake pedal pad & trim plate.

2 Clutch/Brake Pedal Pads - $9.99 each
2 Pedal Pad Trim Plates - $7.99 each
1 Set (2) Clutch/Brake Bushing - $9.99

1968 Pedal Pads & Trim.JPG
Clutch Pedal Stop Block.JPG
 

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Jim, How do those old stainless trim pieces come off? I can't feel any tabs on the underside of the trim,,,,Thanks in advance!
 
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