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Discussion Starter #1
What are your guys thoughts on going with full suspension kits from the likes of Hotchkis, Ridetech, BMR, etc., etc.???

I can't help but think that going with a full new package, front to rear for the entire suspension and steering is the smart way to go if you have to tear everything apart and re-bushing, re-ball joint, blast, and paint any way. Also, I have to worry about stuff that may have been damaged anyway from prior wrecks the car was in.

I realize that these packages run 4+ thousand from some companies, but it's reliable, high performing stuff, right? If you get it all from the same place it should all work together very well, right?

I'm afraid of nickle and diming the important stuff, and winding up with a car that still handles sloppy.

Car: '65 LeMans that has been wrecked a couple times, now with a semi-straight body and runs, but has terrible suspension woes and needs a full rebuild
 

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A new suspension set up will make a HUGE difference in the car's handling....I can't help you with what brand s to use....I had custom stuff done from Street Rod Garage My car rides great!!! call and talk to Chris. Eric:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There is pricey, and then there is your car, Eric sir. One enormously giant step past what I am able to even remotely consider.

4k budget for suspension, front to back. That's about all I can justify.

Sure appreciate the link though.
 

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I've got all Spohn components on my car, including a Moser 9-inch I bought through them. So far, I'm very happy with the set up. I really like the fully adjustable rear arms with del-sphere joints.

Bear
 

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I took a chance and went with a complete Classic Performance Products (CPP) set up including breaks and suspension. I would consider these entry- level pro touring grade at best. Everything bolted up pretty well. The brackets they provided for the rear break lines at the outer ends did not work. I had to fabricate custom brackets. I am concerned about the front and rear spring rates. The rear springs are 2” drop and the front spindles are also 2” drop. The body and engine are on the frame now and the car still sits high. Hoping they will settle in after driving a bit. One of my Pontiac club members has the full brake kit and he says it works great. But at about $2800 for everything, I figured this would get me on the road and I could bolt on better key components later.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ghost
I took a chance and went with a complete Classic Performance Products (CPP) set up including breaks and suspension. I would consider these entry- level pro touring grade at best. Everything bolted up pretty well. The brackets they provided for the rear break lines at the outer ends did not work. I had to fabricate custom brackets. I am concerned about the front and rear spring rates. The rear springs are 2” drop and the front spindles are also 2” drop. The body and engine are on the frame now and the car still sits high. Hoping they will settle in after driving a bit. One of my Pontiac club members has the full brake kit and he says it works great. But at about $2800 for everything, I figured this would get me on the road and I could bolt on better key components later.
Thanks for the response. I have likely the same brake/spindle kit that you have from CPP. I'm not overly excited about it either. The two inch drop is too much, IMO. Of course, I haven't put new shocks or springs on the car yet. Still though, I'm not very proud of a brake kit that is based on an S-10 pickup (which I have as a daily driver, and love, but think it stops like crap). I'll probably end up selling everything but the booster and proportioning valve set up.

After a lot of research yesterday and today, I think I have decided on a package from SC&C. I'm going to wait a few months, read some more, and take some time to get the frame cleaned up and POR'd before I make the purchase. I'll also call and talk to the Markus fellow who runs that place. I hear he's a great guy to discuss these things with.

I've learned while building my pickup that buying stuff twice sucks, and very hard to justify to the wife.
 

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I plan on purchasing the SC&C system, However I will do it over time. I just installed the Currie rear lower control arms. I would recommend also buying new fasteners. 2 of the 4 broke on my control arms and were a pain to remove.

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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I have had the SC&C front suspension setup on my '68 GTO for almost 3 years now, and I really like the handling. That being said, I am running stock springs as the springs SC&C shipped dropped my car into the weeds...it looked bad, rubbed, etc. But, with the SPC upper control arms, stock lower control arms with new rubber bushings, Howe tall ball joints (upper and lower), Hellwig swaybar, and Bear brakes that clear my 15" wheels (all sourced from SC&C) this is by far the best handling and driving muscle car I've owned or ridden in. Many of my muscle car buddies have said the same after going for "spirited" ride in my GTO.
For the rear setup I have stock springs with the GM style boxed lower control arms and sway bar, GM style braces, and CPP adjustable upper control arms, with stock rear drum brakes. This is cheaper than most aftermarket kits I've seen and really tightens up the rear suspension.
Another way I saved quite a few bucks is by using Monroe shocks from my local auto parts store instead of the high buck shocks and/or coil overs that most of the suspension guys push. Works great for me, although I am considering trying some coilovers in the future due to simpler assembly/disassembly and adjustablility.
For steering I am using a NEW (not reman) CPP steering box and high performance PS pump. This made a HUGE difference in the steering response and tracking of the car.
Summary...love the SC&C stuff but think about how you will be using your car, and how you want it to look (ride height), before you jump into the full kit or you may end up with more than you wanted/needed.
 

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What are your guys thoughts on going with full suspension kits from the likes of Hotchkis, Ridetech, BMR, etc., etc.???

I can't help but think that going with a full new package, front to rear for the entire suspension and steering is the smart way to go if you have to tear everything apart and re-bushing, re-ball joint, blast, and paint any way. Also, I have to worry about stuff that may have been damaged anyway from prior wrecks the car was in.

I realize that these packages run 4+ thousand from some companies, but it's reliable, high performing stuff, right? If you get it all from the same place it should all work together very well, right?

I'm afraid of nickle and diming the important stuff, and winding up with a car that still handles sloppy.

Car: '65 LeMans that has been wrecked a couple times, now with a semi-straight body and runs, but has terrible suspension woes and needs a full rebuild

I am a resto-mod guy. I'm running stronger front and rear sway bars, stronger control arms, four-link in the rear, with coil-over shocks all around. I'm also running disk brakes on all four corners. The car runs and stops like a champ. Cost was somewhere between $3,000 to $4,000. Worth every nickel in my view. Good luck with your suspension.
 

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stay away from those ebay control arms they are china knock offs, I went with Global West upper and lower control arms and QA1 coil overs, CPP drop spindles, GW rear control arms,QA1 rear shocks, Edelbrock pinion angle adjusters, Edelbrock tie rods- the difference in handling is day and night I am very happy with how it worked out.I also put in a close ratio steering box and put front disc brakes on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
stay away from those ebay control arms they are china knock offs, I went with Global West upper and lower control arms and QA1 coil overs, CPP drop spindles, GW rear control arms,QA1 rear shocks, Edelbrock pinion angle adjusters, Edelbrock tie rods- the difference in handling is day and night I am very happy with how it worked out.I also put in a close ratio steering box and put front disc brakes on.
Sounds great, and I love the looks of your car, too.
 

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I have seen mixed opinions about mixing different manufacturers when it comes to a suspension and brake components. Sometimes they don’t fit well together. Since I am on a bit of a budget, I opted for the complete CCP the package. I was hoping for a 2 inch drop all around for a more “pro touring” look and feel. It is likely that the first upgrades I do will include coil over shocks all the way around, adjustable uppers and tall ball joints. Since I get home from work before my wife does, I make sure to remove any delivered parts from the front porch at hide them in the garage. Try it, it works!
 

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I have seen mixed opinions about mixing different manufacturers when it comes to a suspension and brake components. Sometimes they don’t fit well together. Since I am on a bit of a budget, I opted for the complete CCP the package. I was hoping for a 2 inch drop all around for a more “pro touring” look and feel. It is likely that the first upgrades I do will include coil over shocks all the way around, adjustable uppers and tall ball joints. Since I get home from work before my wife does, I make sure to remove any delivered parts from the front porch at hide them in the garage. Try it, it works!
Nice! Now i just need to make the woman get a job so she will leave the house! :D
 

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There is pricey, and then there is your car, Eric sir. One enormously giant step past what I am able to even remotely consider.

4k budget for suspension, front to back. That's about all I can justify.

Sure appreciate the link though.
SRG has some shop! It was all over for me, when I saw the "rolling chassis" package! :cheers Eric
 

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I would not use Ridetech. I had a bad experience with them. Hotchkis suspension stuff is OK. Consider front and rear sway bars, coil-over shocks, better control arms, disc brakes and close-ratio steering box.
 
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