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I have purchased a 65 GTO. It has a 70 455 with the 66 Tri Power set up. The car has the factory points Ignition in it. The guy that owned the car before me said he never had any performance issues with the engine with the points. I thought about putting an HEI Distributor in the motor, but it wont clear the rear Carburetor. Considering that I will not be racing the car and it will only be my good weather weekend driver, I think the points distributor will probably be fine. Anyone have any thoughts or advise on a replacement distributor. Thanks :)
 

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64-67 Expert
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I've run nothing but stock points and condenser ignitions in all of my GTO's over the pat 33 years. 100's of thousands of miles of driving, with no issues. No reason to "upgrade". Just stay away from the "uniset" (combined points and condenser) and be sure to replace them every 15,000 miles or so when you do your tune up. I have seen and I have heard of a lot of reliability issues with "upgraded" ignition systems....and these are issues that leave you stranded. The advantage of HEI is "no maintenance" I've seen more than my share of bad modules and magnetic pickup coils in other people's vehicle's. For a street driven, real world car, original is hard to bead.
 

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:agree What he said, and I run an HEI in my car. For how you plan to use the car, there's no reason that a well maintained points system won't be just fine.

Bear
 

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I like the HEI myself as an upgrade, as you can get parts at any store for it. Boats still like points as you can just sand the points, regap and get it running again. Your stock dist is 46 years old, so at least make sure the shaft is tight and advance weights work correctly. I would upgrade to the Pertronixs for the hotter spark and wider gap, incresed performance. Back in Highschool I used Sorensen cross cut points and threw the lightest advance springs in and it was a tire shreader, 66 tempest 455.
 

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I hate points, the only thing I hate more than points is dual points... maybe I am jaded because I could never afford new points for my motorcycles as a child. Always with the Emory cloth or Bristol paper. I am all about solid state, to me it can't be beat. Waterproof and always the perfect timing. I would pay 75 bucks any day of the week to spare myself the headache :) just my 2 cents.
 

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I hate points, the only thing I hate more than points is dual points...just my 2 cents.
Pretty much the same as carb compared to fuel injection.. Carbs are cheaper, with injection you never have to adjust fuel ratio because the humidity changed or changed elevation. And the benefit of good fuel mileage. One perk, carb improvements are cheaper than injection, that's why I came back to old school.
 

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I went with a Pertronix Ignitor III in place of the points. It has a built in rev limiter. I'm very happy with that setup.... They claim, "ignition box performance w/o the box"...
 

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A few years ago, I did actual dyno testing at Westech Performance with Hot Rod Magazine on stock points versus MSD and Crane HyFire ignition systems. Matt King with Hot Rod and Steve Brule with Westech were with me. We ran a 302 Ford street engine in the 370-horse range with an MSD distributor, set up and curved on the Westech distributor machine. We ran it with the MSD module, and then ran it with the HyFire module. Then, I went out to the parking lot and yanked the stock distributor out of Matt King's piece of crap 302 Falcon. He ran over to NAPA and bought a new set of points, and I set the thing up on the distributor machine to match the same curve that the MSD had. We swapped out the distributor, eliminated the HyFire system, and did 4 more dyno pulls with the same total timing as the MSD/HyFire.

Results: Absolutely no differenece whatsoever in the torque and power curve. None. Not even 1 horsepower anywhere on the usable rpm range (up through 5800).

If your stock points-style distributor is properly set up with a good set of points (I run the NAPA/Echlin CS786 in all my GM distributor builds - they will run through 6100 rpm with no bounce), you won't gain any more power or reliability going to any "fancy" aftermarket magnetic or optical trigger systems. The CS786 points will hold their dwell through their 20,000-mile life, which is longer than most people ever own these cars.

If you need assistance with the setup, I can rebuild and set up your distributor (with points) with a very nice performance curve on my Sun machine.

Lars
[email protected]
 

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64-67 Expert
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Lars, you're my hero!! Thank you for once again providing factual information that backs up what you, I, Bear, and others have realized over the years: Factory stuff actually works very well. Once the mixture is ignited, it's ignited. It doesn't matter by what source.
Jeff
 

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I thought I was just being cheap. I looked at pertronix for a long time, but decided to stay with the points. Having a tight budget, I have to scrutinize every purchase. Its nice to know so many others are happy with them too. They're just a little more work to maintain, but thats ok.
 

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This is me (on right) and Matt King, Hot Rod Editor (left), in theWestech dyno cell setting the dwell on his Falcon distributor to run it against the magnetic CD ignition systems. Engine for the testing was a 302 Ford. Proving that a stock, recurved points distributor can match the performance of the aftermarket systems does not make for good press in a magazine supported by the aftermarket vendors, so the results of this testing never made print in Hot Rod... we also used the engine for another article which did make print:


Lars
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I knew I joined this Forum for all the right reasons. I really appreciate all the good opinions and the factual information provided by lars and geeteeohguy. I have submitted numerous questions to the Forum and have great responses on all of them.
timmyg
 

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Lars, so quality points are good to 6100 when new, lesser points fall off sooner. What does spark gap do for performance and higher voltage? Also, did you tighten the spark gap going to the points? OK, so an MSD doesn't add horse power, but the dual/tripple discharge in the lower RPM's should ensure full fuel burn, while a single weak spark wont' do a complete burn?? I have a Taylor Mileage master out of a van, pretty heavy duty unit that has to improve mileage.. SO what is the black magic if you say it doesn't make a difference.
I service fleet vehicles, and my boss told me that as long as an oil is API certified to your requirement then it's good. Oil is a Billions of dollars a year industry, and they spend tons to make you believe awesome oil is better. Synthetics do last longer, but with religious oil changes, conventional is fine. Our cars do take ZDDP, but that's another story. Diesel oil is stronger and is great in the old cars, but bad with Cats. So, I'm assuming the same thing with the points.. I also realize low tension rings makes engines last longer, a point synthetic oils take credit for, but I have a 200K 4.3 that I put heads on that had minimal cylinder wear and lived it's life on conventional oil.
 

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I hate points, the only thing I hate more than points is dual points... maybe I am jaded because I could never afford new points for my motorcycles as a child. Always with the Emory cloth or Bristol paper. I am all about solid state, to me it can't be beat. Waterproof and always the perfect timing. I would pay 75 bucks any day of the week to spare myself the headache :) just my 2 cents.
in the late '70s i ran a mallory dual point series yl distributor in my '64. awsome performance and it never gave me any trouble....rickm.
 

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Hi hope you can help me, Iput a hei in car starts great but will not shut down, my batt wire is going to batt on fuse box. That gets it started, are my wires crossed? 67 gto 400

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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Hi hope you can help me, Iput a hei in car starts great but will not shut down, my batt wire is going to batt on fuse box. That gets it started, are my wires crossed? 67 gto 400

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide.Com Free App
The bat wire needs to come from an ignition switched wire, not a constant hot. Just use a test light and find the wire that turns on and off with the key. Or I'm sure the schematic will show the wire color.
 
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