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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
I am sending my Carb out for rebuilding and want to remove, clean and reinstall my intake manifold. Do I need to remove the distributor? How do I seal the water jacket that goes from the thermostat to the water pump?
Any hints?

Thanks!

Mike
 

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Hi All,
I am sending my Carb out for rebuilding and want to remove, clean and reinstall my intake manifold. Do I need to remove the distributor? How do I seal the water jacket that goes from the thermostat to the water pump?
Any hints?

Thanks!

Mike
No on the distributor. Are you talking about the O-ring seal held by the long bolt at the water pump? Everything you need should come in an intake gasket set.
 

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That's what I love about Pontiac engines. You don't have to remove the distributor to take off the intake. Now, if they would just move it to the front like some other engines, that would be great LOL.
 

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Hi All,
I am sending my Carb out for rebuilding and want to remove, clean and reinstall my intake manifold. Do I need to remove the distributor? How do I seal the water jacket that goes from the thermostat to the water pump?
Any hints?

Thanks!

Mike
I use a thin coat of Ultra Blue on the intake gasket both sides on the water ports and the O-ring.
Set manifold on the engine and start all the bolts then the long bolt from the front, torque to 12 ft. lbs.
Pattern the manifold bolts to 45 ft. lbs in 15 lb increments.
You want to pull the manifold forward onto the O-ring to eliminate any leaking.
BOP Engineering carries a thicker O-ring.

BOP Engineering Pontiac Replacement Parts
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Pontiac Jim and Goat Roper. So now Im thinking since I have the intake manifold off, maybe I should pull the valley pan and get a look at the cam and lifters.....Thoughts or hints?

Mike
 

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Thanks Pontiac Jim and Goat Roper. So now Im thinking since I have the intake manifold off, maybe I should pull the valley pan and get a look at the cam and lifters.....Thoughts or hints?

Mike
You could check out the lifter wear if flat tappets. Clean real good around the valley pan first before removing to keep any dirt or debris from falling into the engine. Get a new valley pan gasket set & new PCV valve rubber grommet while you're at it as well.. Undo the 2 valley pan bolts and remove.

Pull your valve covers. Then rotate the engine to get both valves closed and on the base circle of the cam lobe. Back off the rocker arm adjusting nut enough to free the rocker arm from the pushrod. Remove the pushrod remembering which end goes under the rocker and which end goes in the lifter cup - don't mix them up. Then you should be able to slide the lifter up and out of its bore and inspect the bottom of the lifter for wear or cupping. Use a straight edge over the bottom of the lifter to determine the wear IF it is not visibly worn/cupped.

Then re-assemble in the reverse order making sure you put a little oil back on the lifter base so it is not dry when you fire it back up. Rocker arm nut gets torqued to 20 ft lbs if stock. If you have poly-locks, mark the ploy-lock and count the turns out to get it off, then write it down. When you re-install, put the same number of turns back on it to get close to where it should be, then do a final adjustment with engine running to get your "zero lash." Then do the other rocker the same way and inspect. You can do this procedure for each cylinder & pair of lifters if you choose to or just jump around and check a few.

When done, install your valley pan seal/valley pan and the two bolts. Do not over toghten the 2 bolts or you will crush/distort the valley pan. I like to use a little sealer along with the cork gasket to ensure it does not leak. Many like the RTV stuff which is good, but I like a product called "Indian Shellac" which gets applied with the brush applicator found inside the bottle. You just brush it on. Put some on both surfaces and make sure you get a nice layer in the corners where the gaskets meet. This stuff is like glue when it dries. Next favorite is the "Yellow" 3M Weather Strip & Gasket Adhesive. I believe it also comes in black, but seems the yellow is more common and what I have used.

Trim any excess valley cover gasket that may stick out along the intake side of the heads to ensure a good fit on your intake gaskets.

I think that cover it? :thumbsup:

If you have not already done so, clean-up near the distributor to get the casting build date of your block. Easier to get at it now than later.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Pontiac Jim. I pulled the valley pan, followed your instructions.....all is well.

Quick question for all. I now have the intake off and getting blasted. I want to stick with the Pontiac Blue color but I think I will need a high heat paint, given the condition of the intake when I removed it (flaking brown paint). Do you know the best method and paint to ensure I don't have to do this again and still maintain the stock look? The shop wanted $255 to powder coat the intake, I couldn't justify the cost. Thoughts?
 

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Thanks Pontiac Jim. I pulled the valley pan, followed your instructions.....all is well.

Quick question for all. I now have the intake off and getting blasted. I want to stick with the Pontiac Blue color but I think I will need a high heat paint, given the condition of the intake when I removed it (flaking brown paint). Do you know the best method and paint to ensure I don't have to do this again and still maintain the stock look? The shop wanted $255 to powder coat the intake, I couldn't justify the cost. Thoughts?
I am rebuilding my engine and was planning on using grey vht flame thrower primer first then the pontiac color. If I remember correctly the flame thrower primer was 2000+ degree and the engine paint 500 degree. followed by high temt clear.
 

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While you have that intake off and if you have access to something like a metal cutting bandsaw, consider separating the front water crossover from the rest of the intake. The advantages to doing this include the ability to pull the intake in the future without having to open up your cooling system at all, and you'll be able to port-match the intake to your heads and preserve the alignment because that small bolt that fits into the slot on the timing cover and pulls the intake forward when you install it (as it has to in order to seal that small water passage) will no longer disrupt your port alignment.


Bear
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am rebuilding my engine and was planning on using grey vht flame thrower primer first then the pontiac color. If I remember correctly the flame thrower primer was 2000+ degree and the engine paint 500 degree. followed by high temt clear.
Thanks RMTZ and Bear. Cutting the intake manifold is above my ability so Im probably just going to reinstall. RMTZ, please let me know how you make out with the flame thrower paint. I just ordered it from AMES and IM not sure how it will accept a top coat of Pontiac Blue.

Thanks All!
 

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The blue is going to burn off on the crossover, I primed my intake with hi temp silver so it has that factory look when the blue burnt off.
 
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