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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all......I would like to present my "new" 1968 GTO convertible.....ain't she a site of beauty? I traded my old rust bucket, a 1968 LeMans convertible, for this work of art. At least she is virtually rust free (or at least solid floors with straight almost rust free quarters). Believe it or not, it is a near complete car, minus a front bumper and radiator, it just all needs to be put together. Now let the fun begin.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
To start off, this car IS an upgrade from what I had. Plus all the missing parts (body parts, engine and tranny) I have sitting in my garage. For I had expected to replace those parts on my old LeMans, so I am good there.

Now to answer your questions. No, not original color. Original color was white. It is an automatic, with a Hurst dual gate his/her shifter. It has a 10-bolt rear end. No it did not come with an engine, tranny or drive shaft, but I have a 1972 400 YS code engine with 7K3 heads and a Turbo 400 tranny to go in it for now. Sadly, although this is a true 242 car, it is not a numbers matching car.

When I put it all together it will be that red color with black top and interior. My last car was consumed with rust damage. The floors and quarters were simply horrible. But it also had severe frame issues and almost every body part needed to be repaired or replaced. The only good parts were the doors and trunk lid. So this new car is truly an upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
here is my old car, a 1968 Pontia LeMans convertible (GTO clone).....I traded this straight accross for the new project. On this car , it looks good from 20 feet away going 20 mph, but it had issues from front to back.
1) frame is rusted and damaged, then poorly repaired.
2) floors are rusted with a poor patch job.
3) quarters are rusted, repaired by placing a fiberglass patch and a mental skin over the rusted areas (did not cut out old rust).
4) engine is old and tire, burns oil and runs rich.
5) interior is complete, but door panels and carpeting are from some other car besides a GTO or LeMans. All the regulators are stripped.
6) inner fender wells, both front and rear are rusted.
7) front valance is fiberbglass, is cracked and held on by zip ties.

But believe it or not, I was still able to trade it straight accross for the new one, and I even told the buyer/seller of all the known issues.
 

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If your new project car is as rust free as you say I think you did great on the trade. Don't get so overwhelmed by the beginnings of the project. It took me 14 years to be in a position where I had the space and the money to really get started on my car, take a deep breath and itemize what needs to be done! :cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If your new project car is as rust free as you say I think you did great on the trade. Don't get so overwhelmed by the beginnings of the project. It took me 14 years to be in a position where I had the space and the money to really get started on my car, take a deep breath and itemize what needs to be done! :cheers
Thanks for the encouragement. Yes, it is really dry when it comes to rust. I have gone over this car a dozen times, I know there is a small amount of rust (about 1/2" wide by 2" long) on the driver side quarter, right on the wheel well lip, there is a silver dollar size rust spot in trunk and of course there is minimal amount of rust on the cowl under the windshield. So it is not perfect, but doable. According to the magnet test, there is one baseball size spot on the passenger quarter that is a bit heavy on bondo.

Heck, I was only $3,900 into the LeMans, and now with this car (traded straight accross), and the parts I picked up (engine, tranny, fenders, misc), I am about $6,500 into it. I am already in the process of prioritizing my build. Just checked with body shop to schedule it to get media blasted (since car is already in pieces) and primed. Still working on getting engine running.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looks like you did good. Do you have all the body panels for it, or have to find them? Front clip could get pricey, but rust free is worth it's weight. Nice find, good luck on the build..
Yes, I managed to collect the entire front end, minus a bumper. I have both fenders, both inner fenders, the front valance, the hood and the full non-hide-away headlight grill/assembly, all for $1,200.
 

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Good deal, be sure the shop knows what they are doing while media blasting panels. The heat can distort them depending on the media used.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good deal, be sure the shop knows what they are doing while media blasting panels. The heat can distort them depending on the media used.
I think I am going with soda blasting. From what I hear, that seems to be the most acceptable method. But thanks for the tip, I was not aware that certain kinds of media blasting could distort the metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey guys, here is my girl wth her front fenders on (I grant the fenders are just sitting there), now she almost looks respectable. She is working on being a Frankenstein GTO.....she is a 1968 GTO convertible with body parts from more than one donor car; right now I have a 1972 Pontiac 400 waiting to go in her; and it looks like I will be going with 1969 upholstery and door panels. Well enjoy this pic, I will post more as I go along.
 

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I see you're in the Bay Area. I'm in Santa Rosa. There's a guy up here who does soda blasting and I believe he can come to you if you have a place to do it. I don't have his card anymore, but his business name is S&B soda blasting. I used him for the truck I'm doing and he did a great job for me.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I see you're in the Bay Area. I'm in Santa Rosa. There's a guy up here who does soda blasting and I believe he can come to you if you have a place to do it. I don't have his card anymore, but his business name is S&B soda blasting. I used him for the truck I'm doing and he did a great job for me.

Chuck
I think I have talked to him. He advertises on Craigslist often. My problem is I do not have a place for him to come to. I live ina typical California residential place, you know where my lot size is like 60' x 100' (or something close). Ironically I actually have close to a 1/4 acre, but it is an irregular lot size, I live at the end a small court which make front yard and access to backyard small, while the large back yard is on a hill. So I need to figure out where to get it done.
 

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Some of them will meet you in a field or something. Call to see if he knows of a place...

Be sure to have a place lined up to immediately ospho and prime the bare metal. You don't want it left bare even for a day. Also the rinsing out of all the soda takes hours and you will be cleaning it out of nooks and crannies for years to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Some of them will meet you in a field or something. Call to see if he knows of a place...

Be sure to have a place lined up to immediately ospho and prime the bare metal. You don't want it left bare even for a day. Also the rinsing out of all the soda takes hours and you will be cleaning it out of nooks and crannies for years to come.
I do remember reading about that little issue in your post on your car. I expect that.

My body shop has a place that media blasts the car (not sure what kind of media blast) and the immediately primes it. I was told to expect about $2,000 in costs and as much as 3 weeks to get it done (apparently it is real popular around here).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I see you're in the Bay Area. I'm in Santa Rosa. There's a guy up here who does soda blasting and I believe he can come to you if you have a place to do it. I don't have his card anymore, but his business name is S&B soda blasting. I used him for the truck I'm doing and he did a great job for me.

Chuck
I just talked to S&B Soda Blasting, he was not the guy I thought I had talked to before. I liked what this guy had to say about blasting. He mentioned that although he is mobile, he does have a location for me to drop my car off. He does not primer car afterwards, but I will be ready with primer.

He said it would be about $1,000-$1,300 and about 5-6 hours of time. He told me if I drop oiff car by 7 am, he will have it ready by 2-3 pm that day. So I am working on making an appoint to get my car blasted.

flambeau, I forgot to ask about, does soda blasting take off all the paint, rust and bondo? Or do I need something else to take off the bondo? Once stripped, what kind of primer should I use?

When you say the rinsing takes hours, please explain. My car will be stripped of front end, doors, trunk lid and all interior (incuding dash pas, dash face/gauges). So he blasts the car first, then it has to be rinsed off?
 

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I just talked to S&B Soda Blasting, he was not the guy I thought I had talked to before. I liked what this guy had to say about blasting. He mentioned that although he is mobile, he does have a location for me to drop my car off. He does not primer car afterwards, but I will be ready with primer.

He said it would be about $1,000-$1,300 and about 5-6 hours of time. He told me if I drop oiff car by 7 am, he will have it ready by 2-3 pm that day. So I am working on making an appoint to get my car blasted.

flambeau, I forgot to ask about, does soda blasting take off all the paint, rust and bondo? Or do I need something else to take off the bondo? Once stripped, what kind of primer should I use?

When you say the rinsing takes hours, please explain. My car will be stripped of front end, doors, trunk lid and all interior (incuding dash pas, dash face/gauges). So he blasts the car first, then it has to be rinsed off?
Yeah, he has a place outside of Sebastopol. It's hard to find, but I found it. That's where I took my truck. It's an old dairy farm and he's got no one around him.

Sounds like you'll be in the area for awhile that day. Drop me a line when you know when. Maybe I can suggest some things to kill time. Or bring the significant other and do some wine tasting. We have a couple of places up here... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah, he has a place outside of Sebastopol. It's hard to find, but I found it. That's where I took my truck. It's an old dairy farm and he's got no one around him.

Sounds like you'll be in the area for awhile that day. Drop me a line when you know when. Maybe I can suggest some things to kill time. Or bring the significant other and do some wine tasting. We have a couple of places up here... :D

I absolutely plan on bringing the significant other, for she is dying to ask the soda blaster if she can take a gander at using his machine. She loves power tools. In fact, she is a car girl herself. After I finish the GTO, I will be working on a Classic Mustang for her.

I definitely will connect with you. Meeting a fellow GTO guy is always cool.:cheers
 

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Every bit of the soda needs to be rinsed off, then you have to neutralize the soda and treat the metal prior to application of etching primer. A lot depends on the body work necessary and who is doing it. I'll try to find some good links for you tonight, in the mean time Google "prep after soda blasting" and read up. Don't rush in there's a lot of info out there.
 
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