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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i found this forum while i was trying to find out about buying a core support for my car. after hanging around a little bit i realized i was just being lazy. so i fixed the core support and have moved on from there.




 

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Discussion Starter #8
i filled the dash holes with fiberglass reinforced bondo. (kitty hair). didnt seem bad enough to start major surgery. i figure it will last as long as what the factory sent out. my avitar is a chevelle that i restored for a customer.
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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my avitar is a chevelle that i restored for a customer.
I thought you had grafted 67 Chevelle tailights onto your 66 Tempest....:lol:



NICE paint......I may have to consider a road trip and vacation package when mine is ready.


i found this forum while i was trying to find out about buying a core support for my car. after hanging around a little bit i realized i was just being lazy. so i fixed the core support and have moved on from there.
Now you're talkin' looking good.
 

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i filled the dash holes with fiberglass reinforced bondo. (kitty hair). didnt seem bad enough to start major surgery. i figure it will last as long as what the factory sent out. my avitar is a chevelle that i restored for a customer.
Did you por 15 it before the kitty hair, or just sand blast it or what prior to the bondo? I am dealing with the same thing right now on my 66. I have southern rust issues and my brain says metal and a welder, body shop guy says fiberglass mat and por 15 as filler. Guy that did the car built EVERYTHING out of fiberglass, almost Vette'ish.

66 Tempest has big tail lights in the corners, so I didn't really look beyond that, thought the outside was just a shadow or something, my bad.

Oh, you are real close to Birmingham, maybe I can drop my 70 off to get painted, you do it all up, and I'll pick it up for the power tour, yeah, that will work. Looks like theres room in the corner for a sleeping bag, hmm, this gets better and better.. There is a forum on Hot rod that has threads about the power tour, I just registered, lots of good info on there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks guys

i blasted the rust then primed it with etching primer. then kitty hair on that. i use a lot of por15 but i dont like to wipe over it. i like it for floors, trunks, inside doors and things like that. you can see it on the inner brace of the fender. i coated the whole inside of both fenders with the por15.

dont know how much work would get done but you can come by and we will drink some beer. i have a fold out couch in the bar. :lol:



 

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Discussion Starter #15
let me expand on that. i will wipe over por15 on small holes in the floors and things but i dont use it on things that i plan on painting nice. por15 seals off rust and stops it but if you wipe over it and start sanding with something like 80 grit it will cut through it and expose the rust again. also the por15 doesnt stick well to smooth metal. so i scrub a little of the scale off and brush it right on. i have put it on clean bare metal and it will peel off.
 

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Exactly what I was thinking, coat the inside with POR, etch the outside and press on. Thanks.
Bama cars are nice, surface rust, but no real damage as long as all the windows are up and nothing leaking too bad.
Enough beer and the bar area looks ready for a sleeping bag, fold out couch just makes it comfy..:cheers
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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por15 doesn't stick well to smooth metal. i have put it on clean bare metal and it will peel off.
Exactly what I found and why I don't use it. I know I talk a lot about Eastwood products, in particular their aerosol Rust Converter, but I find it works, not only to stop and seal the rust but I can sand it if needed and paint right over it and it acts as a primer. It stays on bare metal too. After I sand blasted my frame, I sprayed the entire thing with Rust Converter and then painted the epoxy right over it and it is hard as nails.:)
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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i have an eastwood catalog. i should try some of the rust converter. they have a ton of neat stuff.
There is FAR more on their website. I've been cleaning and detailing the engine bay in my 67 Camaro this week in preparation for installing a new (to me) engine tomorrow. I painted the inner fenders Spray Gray, brackets and pulleys Underhood Black, fasteners Zinc Phosphate and cover all the paint with Satin Clear. I don't clear the zinc, don't know if it will hold. Use a good painters mask, especially for the zinc, as it is nasty to breathe. After blasting or sanding, anything that has rust pits and still shows signs of rust get a liberal coating of the Rust Converter first. I've pretty much burned up my stash and need to place another order too.
Once you decide on an order, DON"T do it on-line. Call the 800 number and when asked if you know your salesperson's extension, enter 6826. The sweetest little gal named Amber will answer. Tell her I recommended their products and encouraged you to call and try them. She always gives me 15% off list and FREE shipping. Hopefully she is still there. She told me when I placed my last order a couple months ago that they were laying off but she was told not to worry....yet. Any store depending on restoration work for sales are hurting and will usually do anything within reason to sell their products.
Good luck.......:D
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thanks, the zinc phosphate is another thing im interested in trying. if it is what its supposed to be it wont need any clear. anything like that i have a question about i like to give it a test. just paint an old scrap panel or bolt or something and sit it outside and forget about it. did that the first time with por15 about 10 years ago and liked the results. but after using it through the years i found out its strengths and weaknesses. i will be sure to ask for your sales person, thanks for the tip.
 
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