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Discussion Starter #1
well on the way home a blue gto raced me in my 05 gto. and i lost cuz i shifted really really bad i launced bad and when i wanted to shift to third it did not go in. and i got so pissed. but it was alot of fun seeing a fellow gto driver on the road it was the second gto i saw. and the first that i raced
 

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Might want to find out why that shifter is "sticking". :)

I don't see many fellow GTO owners my way either. There have been a few sightings... But I can count them on one hand.

It's too bad. Maybe the GTO is too much of a "Sleeper"..?
 

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You might consider Amsoil/Royal Purple/Redline Synthetic ATF for your M6. I just put Amsoil in mine and noticed a definate improvement in the shifting (did the diff as well).
Subdriver here on the forum can hook you up with Amsoil.
 

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clutch? we don't need no stinkin' clutch!

chuckyd317 said:
It always helps to push in the clutch when shifting hehe ;)
I drive my beater Ford all the time shifting without the clutch.

It's only 63 HP, and if I screw up that's not enough power to turn the tranny into a pile of smoldering metal bits. Does make some interesting noises when I mistime a shift though.
 

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I had the same problem shifting into 3rd on my 05.Try shifting alittle softer,but just as fast.It seems like when you try to force it,it gets caght up between 1st and 3rd.The gear box is a little trickier than a Ford or Chevy.But its a smaller car,and your on top of the shifter.Also I've had really good luck launching around 2500rpm.Hope this helps.
 

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I always had trouble getting into 3rd in my '00 ws6 there is just something about that gear man. But on an A4 Goat just press to the floor and hang on.Unless of course your racing an 05 gto then just hope to god he messes up his launch lol
 

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diverdan said:
You might consider Amsoil/Royal Purple/Redline Synthetic ATF for your M6. I just put Amsoil in mine and noticed a definate improvement in the shifting (did the diff as well).
Subdriver here on the forum can hook you up with Amsoil.
Thanks for the reference. I was at sea for most of the summer so missed this first time around. I do use the AMSOIL ATF in my six speed Z06. This fluid meets the Dexron III standard for the M6.

Info on how to order AMSOIL can be found on these links of my website:
AMSOIL Online Store
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program

If anyone has any questions, please don't hesitate to drop me a line at [email protected]. :cheers
 

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vnamvet said:
Amsoil is no better than anything else. Just another way to make money for a manufacturer. No flame intended.
Everyone I know that races uses Amsoil or Royal Purple. A small percentage go with Redline or Mobil 1. There is a reason for that, it performs under extreme conditions. For street use with an occassional trip to the track standard lubricants are just fine. When you get the extreme high temps that hard racing produces, you need the best.
My.02
 

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vnamvet said:
Amsoil is no better than anything else. Just another way to make money for a manufacturer. No flame intended.
This is a pretty common perception and one I used to hold myself.

I lost a motor to a seized bearing while running Mobil 1 in 2003. When I had the motor torn apart, I wasn't happy with what I saw (though I don't blame the failure on the oil, I think a better oil may have prevented the failure for a few more races when I had a rebuild planned) and I switched oils after doing my own extensive online research, including reviewing hundreds of used oil analysis reports.

What I found was that not oils are the same from two perspectives, the base stock and the additives.

There Are 5 Base Stock Groups:

Group I base oils are the least refined of all of the groups. They are usually a mix of different hydrocarbon chains with little or no uniformity. While some automotive oils use these stocks, they are generally used in less demanding applications.

Group II base oils are common in mineral based motor oils. They have fair to good performance in the areas of volatility, oxidation stability, wear prevention and flash/ fire points. They have only fair performance in areas such as pour point and cold crank viscosity. Group II base stocks are what the majority of engine oils are made from. 3000 mile oil changes are the norm.

Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of refining of all the mineral oil stocks. Although not chemically engineered, they offer improved performance in a wide range of areas as well as good molecular uniformity and stability. By definition they are considered a synthesized material and can be used in the production of synthetic and semi-synthetic lubricants. Group III is used in the vast majority of full synthetics or synthetic blends. They are superior to group I and II oils but still have limitations. Some formulations are designed for extended oil changes.

Group IV are polyalphaolefins (PAO) which are a chemically engineered synthesized basestocks. PAOs offer excellent stability, molecular uniformity and performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. AMSOIL and Mobil 1 use group IV basestocks, but virgin and used oil analysis reports I reviewed show that AMSOIL has higher levels of anti-wear and detergent additives. I believe that Mobil was concerned about losing market segment in this market as they recently came out with their "extended performance" line of 15k mile Mobil 1, which has 25% more additives by their own admission than the normal Mobil 1.

Group V base oils are also chemically engineered stocks that do not fall into any of the categories previously mentioned. Typical examples of group V stocks are Esters, polyglycols and silicone. As with group IV stocks, group V offer performance advantages over group I-*III. Redline is a group IV synthetic.

Review some of the these test results and draw your own conclusions: Test Results

Some will feel that this is still a bunch of marketing hype and that is fine.
:cheers
 

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Same here. I have problems getting it into third too. I haven't had much practice, and I learned to drive a manual on my mom's BMW 325ci so its a bit of a change. But if I just shift into third VERY deliberatly and slow down a little I get it in. I tried shifting the GTO hard like I can in the Beemer twice and missed both times. Over time I am sure I'll get the hang of it and be able to shift it a little quicker.
 
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