[Panhead]

New to forum. Just getting back into a 66 GTO after 30 years messin with a 1959 Panhead (that's an old Harley.) Gave the panhead to my son now want another GTO. Kinda miss her,(the panhead) she is pretty cherry now!!! Anyway I had a 66 goat as a 17 year old in 1974. Sold it around 1979 for what I bought it for-$450.00. Yeah, imagine that. It got totalled 2 weeks after I sold it!!! It was a 389 with the 3- 2's. I had 428 heads on it with a huge isky cam and 488 gears in the rear. Yeah, I know, I shoulda never sold it !!! Anyway, I am researching motor codes and the like and looking at what's out there for sale. Just getting to learn the market. It looks like there isn't much middle ground as far as prices. They are either rust buckets, usually without a motor, for say 4-7000 to "restored" ones starting at 30K. Forget the convertables, to be honest they are way over priced- I say that mainly 'cuzz I could never afford the current asking prices!!! Anyway, what I will be buying is a 1966- 389- 3 2bbls. 4 speed. I just finished "restoring" a 1952 Chevy P/u (3100) and will purchase my goat as soon as that sells. I am capable of doing 75% of "fixin' up" but am getting tired of big projects so I want one at least most of the way "done". So my ? is, Is 30K about right for what I want or does the current market force these sellers to go down on the initial price? It does seem like many have been for sale for quite some time. Sorry to be long winded, just getting excited, and at 55 yrs. old that takes something special- LIKE A 1966 GTO !!!!

 

[Panhead]

I realize that something is worth what ever someone is willing to pay for it. I also know from experience that you can buy something like this cheaper than you can build it yourself. Just sayin'

 

[Instg8ter]

Welcome back to Pontiacs.....I have been watching E-bay sales the last 3 months and almost nothing is meeting reserves. There was one 42,000 mile survivor numbers matching in solid shape for 21,000, another #1-2 recent resto that hit 41,000. I would say you can get a finished car (older resto) for low to mid 20's, and a mostly completed project for less based on work and parts needed. For 30-40 these days i would expect a show quality car. And yes its cheaper to buy than build.

 

[geeteeohguy]

Welcome back to the GTO world. When you finally go for that first drive, it'll seem like all that time never went by. They are true time machines! I think you are being pretty realistic, and are in the ballpark. 30k should get you a very nice '66 that's ready to enjoy. The only differentiation I need to make is that you may end up getting a car that came with a 4bbl, and has added on tripower. That's fine. Original, 'born with' tripower cars are 30%-50% more expensive for the exact same car just because they were and are rare, and sought after. If you want a true, born with trips '66 for 30k that's done, it may be a bit of a stretch. But in today's economy, it sure is possible. As you probably know, there has neve been a better t ime to buy a restored car, and the cost of resoration will exceed the cost of buying one already done. I would seriously recommend buying a western or southern car that has not had extensive or any rust repair. Good luck!

 

[jmt455]

Welcome back to Pontiacs.....I have been watching E-bay sales the last 3 months and almost nothing is meeting reserves. There was one 42,000 mile survivor numbers matching in solid shape for 21,000, another #1-2 recent resto that hit 41,000. I would say you can get a finished car (older resto) for low to mid 20's, and a mostly completed project for less based on work and parts needed. For 30-40 these days i would expect a show quality car. And yes its cheaper to buy than build.

Welcome back to the GTO world. When you finally go for that first drive, it'll seem like all that time never went by. They are true time machines! I think you are being pretty realistic, and are in the ballpark. 30k should get you a very nice '66 that's ready to enjoy. The only differentiation I need to make is that you may end up getting a car that came with a 4bbl, and has added on tripower. That's fine. Original, 'born with' tripower cars are 30%-50% more expensive for the exact same car just because they were and are rare, and sought after. If you want a true, born with trips '66 for 30k that's done, it may be a bit of a stretch. But in today's economy, it sure is possible. As you probably know, there has neve been a better t ime to buy a restored car, and the cost of resoration will exceed the cost of buying one already done. I would seriously recommend buying a western or southern car that has not had extensive or any rust repair. Good luck!

Instg8ter & geeteeohguy got here ahead of me, but I think they are on the money.

Buying a completed car that has a few years on it is probably the way to go. You could not build a car for anywhere near the current market prices.

Unless you really want a numbers-matching tri-power car, I would go for the best overall deal and then add the tri-power later.

Here's an old thread on "The H.A.M.B." that has some good advice and recommendations for tri-power suppliers. Pontiac Tri-Power or Barry Grant Six Shooter? - THE H.A.M.B.

Happy hunting!

 

[Panhead]

Thank u very much for the replies. Good info. I agree that if I compromise a little on the motor it quickly and drastically reduces the price. I see one for sale in Mass. that has a few issues but is priced around 20k. It has a 70 or 71 455 gto motor in it. Just an example of a motor compromise. Will concentrate on selling my 52 p/u and then put the word out that I am seriously looking with $ in hand ready to spend. That should bring out some serious sellers and just not the ones willing to hang on forever for there top price. But I know, on the other hand, u get what u pay for most of the time. Thanks again.

 

[leeklm]

Also, remember that these cars are close to 40 years older than when you had your 66... What I mean is that there are 40 more years of wear & tear, exposed to the elements, and previous owners/hacks. That came to my attention when purchasing my 66 after not touching these old cars since the mid-80s. I found more "stuff" hidden beneath the surface than what i remembered when these cars were only 15-20 years old... When looking, get the car in the air and go over it with a fine tooth comb, and bring a flashlight!

 

[rickm]

thats amazing. i started my love for the gto at 18 with a '64 royal bobcat that i always regretted selling. after that i got into vintage harleys and bought a '59 fl duo-glide panhead that i had for 22 years. the bike won 7 trophys and was in 3 biker mags. i had nothing but good times with the pan , but as i got older my love for the gto stayed with me. after selling the pan for 3 times what i paid for it, i bought a '65 gto that i enjoy very much. its not as fast , but it sounds, feels, and even smells like my first love. ENJOY!...rickm.

 

[rickm]

for 30k., all you should have to do is register it and polish.

 

[geeteeohguy]

leeklm, give it another 20 years and Rukee and I will be the only guys out there who have GTO's with the original drum brakes and 389 engines still in them!!!

 

[Panhead]

yeah richm I miss the pan. But it's still in the family so I can travel to OK. (I am in Roanoke, Va.) visit my son and grandkids and ride it anytime!!! Stock Foot clutch and hand shift( on trans, not tank)!!! I really miss the sound and torque. I guess that's why I also miss having a goat. Similar sound and torque. So it seems that 30K will get my 66 389 back. I'm gonna have to tough it out and go for the 3 2's, 4 speed, etc. No need to spend say 5K less and still have to find a $2500 intake and carb set up.

 

[Panhead]

Hey leeklm. Thanks for the reply. Any thing specific to look for? I am very mechanically inclined so I mean specific areas that are prone to rust, stress cracks etc.? I remember way back in the 70's that that rear window area was one spot that almost always needed attention. Seems to leak ther easily. Just wondering what other spots to look closely?

 

[Instg8ter]

Check rear and cowl surrounds on the windows, floor and trunk pans, usual water trap spots on the bottoms of the fenders and quarters. Rear frame rails (if the trunk is rusted out).