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Discussion Starter #1
well I had to get a coil spring compressor because these spring are real stiff. I think some of you guys might be right about fitment. I think they are going to be to stiff and will probably sit to high. I also have to do some modifying on the spring compressor. The center bolt is to long (11 inches) and once I install the spring I wont be able to take the spring compressor apart so im thinking of cutting the bolt so its shorter (6 inches). The only thing is once I cut the center bolt the spring compressor will be GTO (or any other car that uses our style coil spring) only. Any other thoughts on this. The coil spring compressor was 35.00 dollarsat auto zone and well worth it real good quality ---Danfigg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
re

disreguard above. I got another coil spring compressor 35.00 dollars from Royal auto parts that works from the outside of the coil spring much better. I also was bottomed out with the other coil spring compressor thinking the coil spring was real tight. So know I have two types of coil spring compressors to add to my tools. The inside one for taller springs and the outside type for shorter springs and it also works with struts as well.----danfigg
 

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:InsertFailFaceHere:
 

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Few poeple have replaced more GTO rear coils than myself. Granted doing one of our Drag coils are a little more challenging, but I have never used a spring compressor at the rear. Granted, a compressor can make life a little easier.

for a really big spring install in the rear, with the rear on jack stands, the only thing I do is disconnect the sway bar end link, and lower shock mount. I do not remove the tire.

You can have a neighbor or helper stand on the lower wheel lip, and then put the upper spring seat in first, then with a small pry bar, lift up the bottom coil and role it into the lower seat.

mike
dms
 

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Few poeple have replaced more GTO rear coils than myself. Granted doing one of our Drag coils are a little more challenging, but I have never used a spring compressor at the rear. Granted, a compressor can make life a little easier.

for a really big spring install in the rear, with the rear on jack stands, the only thing I do is disconnect the sway bar end link, and lower shock mount. I do not remove the tire.

You can have a neighbor or helper stand on the lower wheel lip, and then put the upper spring seat in first, then with a small pry bar, lift up the bottom coil and role it into the lower seat.

mike
dms
True Mike but you haven't tried to install springs made for another car on it either :D. He got some springs that were "close" to the GTO springs
 

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Discussion Starter #7
re

If the weather cooperates it looks like I will put them in tomorrow. Almost 3 foot of snow and no power since last weds I just got it back on Mon and my cable today. As far as coil spring removal, I notice the driver side seems easier to remove than the passenger side. Dont know why but the springs that were "close" to the GTO springs that i aquired may be in finally. Here are other close to the GTO spring The only difference from these 4 springs are spring rate and load rate. Just check how tall they are and if they are 10 inches like our GTO spring they should fit and give a different ride. To soft and they will sag to stiff and they may be to high. Im sure you all can tell which are the GTO springs---Danfigg

gto rear springs.jpg

bmw Z3.jpg

audi A4 05.jpg

bmw x3.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
left side done

I got the left side in and it raised the car from 25 3/4 inches from the ground to the lip that every one loves to cut off or "roll" and now it is 28 inches from the gorund to the lower quarter. I like it at 28 inches it might be a little high for others but now I can put my slicks under it and not have them rub. I used 2, 2 inch muffler clamps to help remove the GTO springs keeping them compressed. Removed the shocks and they popped out. Know getting the BMW springs in was a little harder. I had to remove the sway bar link and had to use the spring compressor. The right side is next and then a test drive. I am 5'10" and weight 235 so that 25 3/4 inches changes when I get in the car. I think I am going with some larger tires also probably 255/40/ 17 to take up some space in the wheel well 1477 lbs. max load
51 psi max inflation
8/32" tread depth
25lbs. tire weight
8.5-10" rim width range
9" measured rim width
10.2" section width
NA
25" over all diameter
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Discussion Starter #10
all done

Ok both sides are done and I took it for a ride. It sits a little high but I like where it sits. The most important thing is that it rides smooth. It is not as harsh as I thought it would be and THE WHEEL HOPE IS GONE. Here are all the total measurements from before and after from the ground to the lower quarter ---- GTO springs Driver side 25 3/4 inches passenger side 26 1/4------ BMW X3 springs-Driver side 28 inches passenger side 27 1/2 inches. So now when I get in the car both side should be level. I dont know the measurements in mm. So any and all thought can begin on this low buck swap----danfigg IMG00855-20100304-1521.jpg

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sorry, don't like it at all. jacking up a car to get tires in is totally the wrong way to do it. your center of gravity is up somewhere around a Jeep now. I also seriously doubt all wheel hop is gone. Springs, bags, bushing and shocks all together will only tame it. You'll find it again. It just isn't that much to get the correct springs.

BTW, your camber is all screwed up now too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
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Yeah I agree it sits to high. I hope it settles down a little bit. A few people who saw it thought it was OK. I also notice other makes of cars S4, 350 Z and saw that my car was around the same height in the back. As far as the wheel hop, it is definately gone. 3 back to back burn outs with no wheel hop. Earlier when I took it for a ride before the spring change 3 back to back burn outs resulted in wheel hop. My car has always wheel hopped and now it is completely gone.Trust me before it would hop and I would have to let off. Know I hear tires screaming right up to red line. Both test runs were made at the same location and at nearly the same temperature 45 degrees which is wheel hop temperature. As far as the alignment goes, only a alignment rack will tell me if its screwed up. With the saggy butt it looked like it was sitting on the inside edges of the tires and know it looks like it is sitting flat on the tires. It handled well when I drove it so who know what a slolom test would produce. Bushing are my next purchase and then it will be axle shafts and stubs.------danfigg
 

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I would think handling has been compromised. Have you tried cornering? What about body roll? To me, it looks like it wont handle near as good with the current springs as it did with stock springs, judging by the stance.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Like I said it seemed to handle well I took turns and didnt notice any body roll these springs are stiff and lane changes were made abruptly and with problems. If any one has pictures with the raised drag racing spring could you please post some pics. I would like to compare them to the height of my car---danfigg
 

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This seems like the right place to ask.My rear end is sagging, well atleast to me it looks like it to me and i wanted to put new coils in to bringit back up. the reason i say this is because the front is about 1 1/2" of clearance, and in the rear its about 1/2". there is clearly a difference, when i look at it. does anyone know of a company that makes the stock height of spring, maybe a little more stiff? or even drag bags? are drag bags adjustable?
Thanks
 

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This seems like the right place to ask.My rear end is sagging, well atleast to me it looks like it to me and i wanted to put new coils in to bringit back up. the reason i say this is because the front is about 1 1/2" of clearance, and in the rear its about 1/2". there is clearly a difference, when i look at it. does anyone know of a company that makes the stock height of spring, maybe a little more stiff? or even drag bags? are drag bags adjustable?
Thanks
Yes they are, you put air in them much like an air shock, except the bags go inside the rear speings.
 

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This seems like the right place to ask.My rear end is sagging, well atleast to me it looks like it to me and i wanted to put new coils in to bringit back up. the reason i say this is because the front is about 1 1/2" of clearance, and in the rear its about 1/2". there is clearly a difference, when i look at it. does anyone know of a company that makes the stock height of spring, maybe a little more stiff? or even drag bags? are drag bags adjustable?
Thanks
Kollar Racing Products Home Page
GTO Pedders Suspension - Wretched Motorsports
http://www.jhp.com.au/jhpgto/suspension.htm
http://www.speedinc.com/catagory.cfm?catagory=Suspension / Chassis
 

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I'm certainly not knocking your effort or thinking outside the box. I really like that aspect of it. It just would have been a lot better if it brought the car down to stock or maybe a little lower height. As far as wheel hop you'll find that it's an elusive thing. The stiffening is what helped you just like drag bags help in doing the same thing but a change in power or grip and you'll probably see it again. You actually want a little negative camber for handling. Positive or flat helps with straight line dragging but a little negative works much better on the turns. I also forgot where I saw the figures for cornering vs ride height but lowering the center of gravity even a bit helps a lot not to mention the visual appeal. Good luck with your project.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
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Thanks Svede maybe i should have said it straight from the beginning. I dont like the lowering thing I will leave that for the Ricers. I am a drag racer. I also dont want to change the aspect of the GTO. I think these spring are to high I definately agree with that. Here is the thing though. These springs are made to higher quality standards unlike GM. The paint marks on them represent different height spring and spring rates. The white ones are ten inches tall like our GTO then there are others that are 9 3/4 9 1/2 91/4 not sure which ones are which but the colors are green pink and brown. I also think the wheel hop issue for indepenant suspension cars are associated with the suspension travel. When the rear squats on launch, it changes the alignment and its possible the tires are riding the inside edge of the tire and only the edges of the tire are trying to provide all the traction. The tire heats up and tries to grab but it cant and then it starts to hop. So you have a tire not provide proper contact on the road surface, an axle which travels up and down, a coils spring that is to soft, a shock absorber that is to soft, a drive shaft with rubber couplings at both ends and a host of bushings that are mushy and a 4000 pound vehicle A Recipe for disaster. I have a 77 Chevy Monza which weights 2950 with a 383 stroker t350 3000 stall and 373 out of the box it was running 13,50 once tuned, it went 12.99 on street tires. That is when the wheel hop started. A set of traction bars stopped that issue. With slicks it went 12.50 at 109, 11,99's are coming soon -Danfigg
 

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Discussion Starter #20
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This question if for Mike from DMS I just took a measurement and according to the Pedders website, The measurement is taken from the bottom of the OEM 17 Inch rim to the fender lip. I took the measurements from the floor to the fender lip but know im using pedders measurement. The average is 600mms or 23.62 inches. Pedders offers a spring with a 40 mm raise. I added the 40mm raise to the stock 600mm which is 640mm or 25.19 inches. My measurements are 25 1/4 or 641.35mm. I have a half a tank of gas so it looks like my spring are some what to the ball park of drag race springs in height. Unless im way off and Mike if that is the case please correct me. Im not comparing my springs to yours. Im quite certain yours are a much higher quality product. I have slicks which are 26 1/2 X8 mount on 15X8 inch stocker rims so they should fillup the void.---------Danfigg
 
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