Yes...pics please. Remove engine?? or raise and take the pan off?? OR?? Comments on how you got the old one out and new one in, any sealant at the joint etc. Since crank still in, did you loosen caps to raise it slightly or?? Tx:eek2:I have JUST recently done this! It went extremely smooth... did not even have to remove the crank. Used a vitron seal from Tin Indian. can upload a few pics if wanted...
I had the same experience with a Viton seal, followed directions and it leaked bad, real bad. Sounds like this new Graphtite seal is the way to go. I'm doing a teardown this winter and based on all the good press I'm definitely going that way. Glad I looked on tech forum today.The first time I rebuilt my 400, I used the viton seal. I siliconed at the areas specified in the installation instructions, ... result .... leaked like a bad diaper on a baby. The following winter I installed a new forged crank, so naturally, I installed a new viton seal from a different supplier, it was slightly different from the first one I installed. I even made sure the seal mating surfaces were not on the same plane as the bearing cap. The result was the same. IT LEAKS badly. I'm seriously considering trying the graphite rope seal mentioned in a previous posting. I seriously wish you good luck, and if you accomplish a leak free seal, please let me know how you did it.
This may be the wrong place for this question but this is my first post and am not computer literate. '70 GTO with 400 engine, automatic trans. Front engine seal blowing oil so bad that other cars are backing away when driving. Do I have to pull the engine to replace the seals, both front and rear?
That was just a test to see if your would catch it. LOL DUH, you are correct. I wrote the response with one foot out the front door going to the mall, so got it wrong. Will edit my post. Thanks for the catch. :wink2: :thumbsup:Um, isn't the front sealing surface the balancer hub? :grin2:0