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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The question has come up on remote oil filters.

I my self wanted to use a remote setup. It was not really for any of the often stated benefits, but rather, the look I was after. In doing my build, I am not using the heater or fan and want a smooth firewall look. To that, I want a more competitive street racer/drag car look and to me the remote oil filter on the firewall is that look.

If you do a web seach on what is best and which brand, etc., like all things you will get 100 different opinions and some will scare the heck out of you and you won't even consider them. Which type - dual filter or single? Tall or short filters? What size lines - 8 AN, 10 AN, or ? How long should the line be? How about attachment elbows - curved or 90 degree? Oil pressure - some say you will lose oil pressure and others won't. Oil drain-back, some say yes, some say no, and some say you'll start your engine dry with no oil.
Where to locate it - below the oil pan oil level, above the engine, on the firewall, on the fender well, ?????

Here is what I have just ordered for my build from Nitemare Performance - right or wrong. I wanted a complete kit that was a tried and proven set-up rather than cobble something together using individual pieces/parts and hope I got it right. I had a few questions which were answered promptly. I also have to trust in the person who uses and sells these or I will be second guessing myself forever and worry every time I fire up the engine and "notice" something suspicious that just doesn't look 100% right all the time.

Complete Pro Series Remote Oil Filter Setup


PJ to Darrin Magro email:

"I have never used a remote, and what I have researched on the internet has simply confused me more. Lot of opinions and I'm sure many haven't a clue what they are talking about, so excuse my ignorance.. So a couple of questions to sort through the internet BS/Myth's.

#1 . Biggest thing I read is the term "oil drain back." With the remote filter mounted on the firewall, when the engine is shut down, the oil can drain back down the lines leaving the lines dry and when the engine is fired up, bearings don't get any oil until the oil pressure builds up and wear of bearing/mating surfaces are accelerated.

#2 Location of oil filter with regards to the above. Some say it needs to be low on the firewall and mounting it above the engine will only make "oil drain back" worse. With no heater in the way on the firewall, that is about where I would locate the filter. I want people to see it, not bury it low out of obvious sight.

#3 A remote filter can lower oil pressure. I have the 60 PSI pump and I have read I may see an oil pressure drop of a few pounds. (Have a healthy iron head 455 build/TKO-600 5-speed/3.89 geared Ford 9"). Perhaps this is more due to where the mechanical oil pressure gauge reading is taken - engine or remote filter fitting?

#4 Any other considerations or pitfalls I may need to know about?"

Darrin Magro to PJ email reply:

"Most remote filter set ups got a bad rap because they are installed with really long lines with the filter attached to the radiator support and sometimes with twin filters. This set up reflects some of the issues you mentioned with this kind of set up, Ours is designed to be installed high on the fire wall, close to the motor. There is NO drain back of the filter, only of the lines, due to simple gravity. The filtration is superior and the oil runs cooler. An average of 7 HP can be expected over a standard oil housing with a stock filter. Extra clearance for headers is also a big benefit. When you first start the engine when COLD just run for the first 2 seconds at the lowest RPM possible till oil pressure comes up then you good. No issues when hot as the oil pumps quickly. The engine running for 2 seconds with no oil pressure wont do any harm as the bearings hold oil. Use Drivens HR1 Hot Rod oil, conventional based 15-50 #2 106 oil for best results. There is no oil pressure issues at all when driving or under load. We install this on EVERY motor we sell. Its absolutely the best single upgrade you can do to your oil system. Any more question please advise."

So there you have it. I am running Doug's headers so in using this set-up, the benefits are of course the oil filter clearance issues I won't have, no spilling of oil on the headers when it comes to changing filters, plus those outlined by Darrin. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks PJ!
Just got my filter kit. Here is what it looks like when you receive it. You have to do some assembly.

Instructions are included. There is one length of braided line. You have to cut it (die grinder & cut-off wheel) and assemble the ends. It is this way for mounting purposes depending on where you locate it. If you are not comfortable doing the cutting/assembly, you could bring the measurements and the parts to a local hydraulics rebuilder/shop. They can do this for you. I have a local shop near my workplace that makes braided steel lines as well as rubber lines.

I don't see any other issues, per say. The bracket to hold the oil filter looks adequate, but I might add/weld a couple steel diamond shaped gussets at the 90 degree bends just to give it a little more "beef" - just because I like to over engineer stuff. LOL I'll have to re-paint, but no big deal. Another alternative would even be to have the bracket made up at your local metal/fab shop using stainless steel. Use the painted bracket as your template and let them duplicate it so it adds a little "shine" to the firewall.

I am probably going to use a finned oil filter cover of sorts to match my finned valve covers. There are different styles available. I don't think I want a full cover, but maybe a partial "vaned" cooling sleeve might look good. Included a picture of one. They are available in colors as well.
 

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Funny that is a pretty basic setup for so much money....I still need to do research on other options (never heard of these guys) and would like to understand why their setup is better than others.
 

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I like the look of PJ's parts. I used a Moroso remote bracket and fabricated my own hoses from Fragola fittings and -10AN Summit steel braided hose. The pressure sending unit will be relocated in the future as it looks obnoxious where it is but for the time being it works. I have a 2 QT white Moroso oil filter I'm waiting to put on until after my next oil change. It will look much better with that. My oil pressure had no noticeable drop from what it was prior to going remote and I am running a high pressure pump. I think i typically see 60ish psi at idle but my memory is fuzzy there. I was tired of taking my oil filter off with a screw driver and hammer because of my headers. That was my main reason why I went remote, plus I love the look. Oil changes were never so easy.

Moroso remote oil filter bracket

https://butlerperformance.com/i-24453395-moroso-remote-oil-filter-bracket-mor-23750.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dremote%2Boil%2Bfilter

Butler performance adapter plate
https://butlerperformance.com/i-24452908-pontiac-bolt-on-remote-oil-filter-bypass-plate-1-2-pipe-bpi-1011.html?ref=search:https%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dremote%2Boil%2Bfilter

[/url]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Funny that is a pretty basic setup for so much money....I still need to do research on other options (never heard of these guys) and would like to understand why their setup is better than others.
Yep, I thought the same thing. But, I feel better knowing that all the parts are correct and matching and that the set-up is spec'd and used by a Pontiac engine builder.

There are a number of other manufacturers that offer parts/kits like Summit, Trans-Dapt, Moroso, Hamburger, etc.. Their parts are cast aluminum. These parts are machined billet, so billet is always more - and it is stronger.

I could have pieced it together as I am sure most do. Several of the other Pontiac builders offer the parts, you can easily get the hoses assembled to your specs, and put it together. Some differences in the parts, like O-ring seals versus using the factory type oil filter gasket, braided steel line versus rubber hydraulic hose, and quality ends versus hose nipples and clamps.

As I stated, I have never used one of these, and I found too many posts on other websites that had me concerned. I have too $much in my engine to chance putting together a set-up that saves money only to find out I encountered low or fluctuating oil pressure or wiped out my bearings on a banzai RPM blast.

So I am not endorsing the product, but it is what I am going to use, and feel confident enough based on a shop that has the experience that I don't have in adding the set-up. Your choice may be completely different, far less expensive, and work just as well. But the cost for me was not the objective, peace of mind and an undamaged engine were. :thumbsup:
 

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Jim, I ran a single remote filter on my '66 GTO for over 10 years with zero problems. With the headers I was running, it sure made oil changes a snap. With the large Ford type filter and the hoses, it also added to my oil capacity, which I see as a good thing.
 

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Jim, I ran a single remote filter on my '66 GTO for over 10 years with zero problems. With the headers I was running, it sure made oil changes a snap. With the large Ford type filter and the hoses, it also added to my oil capacity, which I see as a good thing.
Working through relocation right now in my ‘67. Impossible to keep the stock filter setup with my headers. Would love serials on what and where you ran the remote setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here is a couple pis of the finned oil filter cover. I got the blue anodized one. It is too small to fit on the bigger oil filter - which I was aware of - and I simply cut the flat flange having the 2 allen head bolts you see in the earlier photo. Then I gently by hand opened up the cover by working around it to open it wider rather than just pull it open which will only spread it open at one point rather than all the way around so as to enlarge its size. I opened it up just enough to slide over the filter. Not concerned about the back side as you will only see the front side once it is up on my firewall.

I will use a large stainless type hose clamp at the base of the finned cooler to keep it from slipping down. It is not about function, it was about the look that I wanted so it breaks up the appearance/size of the big oil filter. If it helps cooling, so be it, but I did not get it for that.

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I looked up this thread because I keep contemplating a remote oil filter or two, maybe it would help engine temp, some more capacity and could look good if done right. So the question is since I don't have room anywhere else except removing the bug juice reservoir and mounting it there is that to long of a run, probably close to four feet ? I'm keeping the heater box and have a heater hose on the wheel well. My other questions are single or dual filters? Advantages and disadvantages? And what about the kits that thread on where the filter spins on instead of the bypass plate, if ok that would be good because my two sending units are in the original filter housing which if not I have another job relocating those. Putting the filters where the reservoir enables me to fit dual filters and even run the tall Moroso ones which would give me about 2 qts more. Would make changing the filter easier, get it away from the exhaust and not too expensive....I know it's not necessary but would make a good winter project.
 

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Just got my filter kit. Here is what it looks like when you receive it. You have to do some assembly.

Instructions are included. There is one length of braided line. You have to cut it (die grinder & cut-off wheel) and assemble the ends. It is this way for mounting purposes depending on where you locate it. If you are not comfortable doing the cutting/assembly, you could bring the measurements and the parts to a local hydraulics rebuilder/shop. They can do this for you. I have a local shop near my workplace that makes braided steel lines as well as rubber lines.

I don't see any other issues, per say. The bracket to hold the oil filter looks adequate, but I might add/weld a couple steel diamond shaped gussets at the 90 degree bends just to give it a little more "beef" - just because I like to over engineer stuff. LOL I'll have to re-paint, but no big deal. Another alternative would even be to have the bracket made up at your local metal/fab shop using stainless steel. Use the painted bracket as your template and let them duplicate it so it adds a little "shine" to the firewall.

I am probably going to use a finned oil filter cover of sorts to match my finned valve covers. There are different styles available. I don't think I want a full cover, but maybe a partial "vaned" cooling sleeve might look good. Included a picture of one. They are available in colors as well.
yeah, but over engineering is better than having to do the same job twice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Idk if my post can be seen in this old thread because it doesn't appear as a new post.

Personally, I don't like the idea of the long lines. I think you will see a drop in oil pressure and when you fire up the engine, the oil pump has to push oil down the line, through the filter (s) and then to the engine. Just would scare me a bit. I would at a minimum have a kill switch where I could crank the engine over a bit to get oil flowing and then flip the switch to put power to the coil/ignition to fire up the engine.

If me, maybe low behind the engine block on the passenger side frame, but above the headers.

I am not running a heater and my firewall will be "smoothed out", so mine will be right on the firewall behind the engine using short lines.
 

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Ya I'm concerned about that too but I have no other place, and I want to tuck the lines up under the fender and come out by the bug juice container so it's turning into almost 72". Headdmen does have those on their site, and they're 1/2" npt so maybe a little small for that run. I do have an 80 psi pump and the filter I'm running now has an anti drain back valve so idk if that would help, also I'm not planning on any 90° fittings. Trans dapt makes a spin on adapter with the inlet/oulet at 90° instead of straight down. What's the opinion of dual tall filters over one filter? I was looking at a Speedmaster filter housing that has ports on either side.
 
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