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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all!

My 67 Hardtop is ready to come off the frame. It is down to the body shell, decklid, and doors. My question is:

A: Should I remove the doors before lifting off the frame?

B: If I remove the doors, should I brace the door openings, or is that something you only have to do for a convertible?

Thanks in advance!

Dave
 

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Body separation

Greetings Dave
You don't need to weld any braces for body rigidity as long as you properly support her at four points. I did two body separations of my 65 Tempest the first using several friends lifting from the trunk lip and at both ends of the rocker panels with the doors off. The second time was done with the doors removed with the four adapters under the pinch welds at both ends of the rockers at approximate body bolt locations number 2 and 4. I have since completed the car and can say there was no tweak,twist or problems with door gaps after assembly. I've posted several you tubes ( search - 65 Tempest restoration) of the project and have a few pictures of the body separation and drop process and the dolly I built with uni track strut. I used a 67 assembly manual to help along the way along with my 65 chassis and fisher manuals and found there is a lot in common between the years. I hope this helps and wish you the best of luck with your project. Send a few pictures as you go along if you get a chance.
 

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I should follow up that if this were a convertible you defiantly do need to weld in bracing. Also when you get the body off look for your partial vin number on top of the left frame rail just aft of the tire hump. This is a good thing for documentation purposes
 

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Dave, welcome. I agree. That said, if you plan to remove the doors after the body is removed, take them off now - just makes the body a little lighter when lifting. Same with the trunk lid. Piece of cake with one on each corner. Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the insight guys. I appreciate it! The removal of the body should happen in the next couple of weeks. I've been doing plenty of research on lifting the body off and just want to make sure I don't mess anything up. I have a body cart ready to hold the thing once it's off. I will definitely check out your vids, devildawg...

Here's what it looked like back in 1993.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, going with the original color. I got lucky when I bought the car as a clueless 19 year old kid in 1988. I got a largely original #'s matching car. So I'm going to try to keep it that way as realistically possible. With modern safety and handling improvements, of course.
 

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What these guys said. Pull the doors and trunk lid first to save weight. Hardtops are plenty rigid and won't tweak if supported correctly. Helped a friend with his '67 HT a few years back, and no issues at all. Everything lined back up perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What these guys said. Pull the doors and trunk lid first to save weight. Hardtops are plenty rigid and won't tweak if supported correctly. Helped a friend with his '67 HT a few years back, and no issues at all. Everything lined back up perfectly.
Awesome. Thank you!
 

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Sweet

Sweet ride Dave. Always good when you have so much potential to start with. Great pictures. I love the color combo blue with the white interior. As we say in New England (Wicked Pissa) . Keep those questions and pictures coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sweet ride Dave. Always good when you have so much potential to start with. Great pictures. I love the color combo blue with the white interior. As we say in New England (Wicked Pissa) . Keep those questions and pictures coming.
Thanks, dd. Again, I know I'm fortunate to have a mostly complete car to start with and in a lot of respects it will be a fairly easy restoration compared to a lot of what I have seen on various GTO forums, etc. It still will be a lot of work and there's plenty of things involved in a resto that I don't know about (yet!)
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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WOW, that looks incredibly clean for an upper Midwest car.

I'm lazy when it comes to lifting the body on my '67...:razz:

 

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Discussion Starter #19
WOW, that looks incredibly clean for an upper Midwest car.

I'm lazy when it comes to lifting the body on my '67...:razz:
Thanks, Mitch. Quite the setup you have there, pretty cool!

My car was a St. Louis, MO car up until the early 80's AFAIK. I bought it from a guy in the Chicago burbs back in 88. My guess is all the existing rust and bondo in the trunk and rear quarters was done by the original owner. It will need a complete trunk pan as well as rear quarter patches.The underbody from the firewall back has never been touched. The car has been sitting (garage kept) since '95.

Again, I consider myself fortunate....
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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My '67 from the firewall back is all virgin too......all new metal installed by me and never seen the road yet...:lol:

Are you considering a 1 piece trunk floor ? I got one of the first ones to hit the states from Dynacorn about 4-5 years ago. I got to installing it last spring and it fit well until I got to replacing the tail panel. The floor was not formed correctly the last 10 inches or so and I had a 1" gap. I had to bend the lip up and make a step to get it to match up without putting strain on the tail panel, which bowed the quarters...:cry: I called Dynacorn and of course, they had never had any complaints about the fit. I got another '67 in here this spring to replace the tail panel and I measured his original floor and I was RIGHT !!! The floor was too low.

Try to get cut-offs from a donor for the quarter patches behind the tires because the the repops are STILL formed for a '66 and don't have the correct design at the bumper. Lots of work cutting up the patches for a '67. Very difficult finding donors but they do pop up once in a while. Keep the radar up and you might get lucky.

Look at AMD for panels. They claim to be using all new dies with better definition at body lines. I used a couple of their patches on my '66 Chevelle and am very happy with the fit. They still don't have much for Pontiac's but are supposedly working on more parts. Goodmark sold out to a large conglomerate a few years ago and all investment in new parts evaporated. They flat out said to quite hoping for full quarters because they had scrapped the development.:mad2:
 
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