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Step 6: Now insert the bolts you plan on using and make sure they screw in and out smoothly. If everything is good, then we have to set all four bolts with a nut of the same thread and pitch. This nut will help you set the depth and lock the bolts against the bearing in place before adding the urethane.

Step 7: Now we remove the rubber material from the bearing. Remove enough with a grinder that it leaves just a thin portion. Try to keep it nice and even all round the bearing.


Step 8: Now we're ready to reinstall the bracket. I forgot to mention, before the installation of the bracket, clean all the surfaces with brake cleaner or equivalent. Make sure it's dry and clean. The same goes to the rubber around the bearing. Wipe extremely well and make sure you see no residue on the paper towel you're using. If not, this urethane will not stick well and you're screwed.



Step 9: Now you're ready to adjust the bolts onto the bearing. Adjust all four bolts as evenly as you can with a slight touch onto the bearing. You have to keep the bolts at even distance as they touch against the bearing. You can measure or eyeball the best you can the keep them even. Once you're set tighten the bolts tight against the bearing and lock the nuts.


Step 10: Grab painter's tape and position the tape around all the opening on one side of the bracket. Try to keep it very tight and no open spots so all the urethane stays within the bracket.


Step 11: Position the shaft upright on the shop vise with the tape facing down. We're now ready to add the urethane. The urethane I used is the 3M Window Weld which is very strong, and dries pretty quick compared to other urethanes. I used this repairing motor mounts. Fill all of the open area and make sure it seeps all the way to the bottom of the tape. You might have to let it dry a bit to pull the tape in case the bolts did not allow it to seep well.



And that's all to it. Now the drying process. I let the urethane set probably about 12 hours. Basically I let it sit overnight. You want to really let this dry well. So if you decide to do this, you're going to give yourself at least 2 days of downtime for drying. I'd say a weekend will be fine. Once it's harden you can make it start looking nice. As you can see at these pics.


 

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Window weld is pretty slick for beefing up the differential in lieu of the diff insert as well as the tranny mount. I will say that it can take a while to fully cure being that thick. This is a good repair but I think it just buys time as the guibos wear out and the actual shaft was engineered for a V6
 
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