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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I figured I'll post some pictures of the lower front control arm bushings that I replaced. They have been sitting in the garage for a few months now and I need to get some of these projects finished. If your not comfortable with doing this have a professional to do it. I used my service manual to make sure that I followed the correct procedures for installation and torque specs.

I used Lovells Radius Rod rear bushings and Lovells Lower Control Arm inner bushings.

This is the tool I used to remove the rear radius rod bushing. You can use a large socket it will perform the same way. I didn't have one that big and it was more than what I wanted to pay for one so I used an idea I got from Svede(thanks for the help). It is much, much cheaper than buying a socket if you don't have one. It will also work for the rear control arm bushings also, thats originally what I bought it for.



After I removed the whole radius rod assy its for small nuts in the front and it connects to the control arm with a 30mm nut that the service manual says to replace. I used a razor knife to remove the front lip of the rear radius rod bushing.



Using the tool, rachet wrench and a box end to press out the bushing.




 

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Discussion Starter #2
This is what it looks like after its removed:




You don't need to press in the new bushings they are a two piece design with a crush sleeve. I lube up the inner crush sleeve with supplied grease and installed.

The inner control arm bushing requires a hydro press. To press them out and press in the new ones. You can use the press to press out the rear radius rod bushings too but I wanted to use my tool:D The service manual states that you have to replace the nut with a new one. They also have a inner crush sleeve that needs to be lubed with supplies grease. Yes you have to remove the control arm from the car, that requires removing them from the ball joints too.




This is the new bushings installed:





Control arm installed.





The service manual says that the nuts be torqued with the vehicle on the ground and the suspension settled. It was a pain to do with a big torque wrench. I torque striped my nuts with a paint pen so I know if they have loosend. You will need an alingment after this.
 

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Is that a 2" pipe coupler?

I initially bought a 1-1/2" one, but it didn't seem wide enough to accept the bushing.

I then returned it and bought a 2" coupler. But it seems like it barely fits between the lower control arm and the steering tie rod.
 

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He hasn't been here for about 6 months. He was a somewhat frequent poster until the Air Force stationed him in the U.K.
 
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