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Discussion Starter #1
While replacing my clutch fluid, afterwards I noticed clutch fluid under my vehicle. Check me if Im wrong, but the easiest way to replace your clutch fluid is to almost empty the clutch master cylinder, refill with new DOT 4 clutch fluid, replace the cap and pump your clutch 30 to 40 times and repeat untill your clutch fluid is clean. After I did that I noticed the clutch fluid on the ground. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated....
 

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If you are talking about the "Ranger Method" famous on Corvette boards for changing clutch fluid then yes, that's the easiest way to change the fluid. However your lines shouldn't leak.

I use the "Ranger Method" on my GTO (and Corvette) to keep my clutch fluid in tip top condition with no problems on either.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you are talking about the "Ranger Method" famous on Corvette boards for changing clutch fluid then yes, that's the easiest way to change the fluid. However your lines shouldn't leak.

I use the "Ranger Method" on my GTO (and Corvette) to keep my clutch fluid in tip top condition with no problems on either.
Yes, thats the method I used. After carefull searching I guess some of the fluid must have dripped from the turkey baster while I was withdrawing the dirty fluid. I have been keeping a close eye on possible leaks, and nothing is seen and there has been no fluid loss. I was hoping replacing old fluid with new wouldn't cause leaks. Btw i like the color of your GOAT...sweet ride!
 

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The easiest way (and best) to replace clutch fluid is to have a remote bleeder on the slave and flush it from one end to the other. If you ever have any clucth work replace the slave and put a remote line on
 

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I am going to use the Ranger method, but problem being I was only able to get DOT 4 fluid and not Super DOT 4. I know from reading the difference between the 2 is that Super DOT 4 has a higher boiling point. I am stuck in Germany and noticed the black fluid the other day. The car gets shipped back to the states in a month and a half. Will there be a big issue with just using DOT 4? Thanks in advance for any advice or tips.
 

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As long as it's NOT synthetic you're OK. I use a DOT 3/4 and have no issues. The black crud BTW is not "assembly lube" or anything from the clutch lines. It's clutch dust that gets introduced past the seal of the slave. The piston extends, dust gets on it, the piston retracts and a small amount of dust gets into the hydraulic fluid. Because of that waiting for the crud to work it's way ever so slowly to the reservoir to get it out isn't the best way. The heaviest concentration of it is at the slave end. That's why bleeding from the top to the bleeder at the end of the line is the best way. Remote bleeders make that really easy.
 

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I am going to use the Ranger method, but problem being I was only able to get DOT 4 fluid and not Super DOT 4. I know from reading the difference between the 2 is that Super DOT 4 has a higher boiling point. I am stuck in Germany and noticed the black fluid the other day. The car gets shipped back to the states in a month and a half. Will there be a big issue with just using DOT 4? Thanks in advance for any advice or tips.
Dot4 is fine. I think dot 5 is synthetic what you don't want. I flush mine often becuase of those black chunks in there what I think Ranger called out as clutch dust that gets past the slave seal.
 

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2005 GTO Manual:

What to Add
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-4 brake
fluid.
Use new brake fluid from a sealed container
only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on
page 6-12.

Page 6-12:
Hydraulic Brake
System

Hydraulic Brake Fluid. Use only
GM Part No. U.S. 88958860, in
Canada 88901244, Super DOT-4
brake fluid.
 
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