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As crazy as it seems, the adjustment is just setting the correct time every day. Theory is that if the clock is 5 min slow, you adjust the hands to correct time. Clock will compensate. Next day clock is 2 min slow. Adjust to the correct time. Next day clock is a minute fast you adjust back. Eventually you get the clock running at the correct speed.
Now with all that being said, these clocks were never intended to keep atomic time but they will generally do quite well for all intents and purposes. A light application of lubricant on the gears should keep it running free.
 

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Discussion Starter #242
Very interesting. I will give that a try. I left it running for a day and a half and it kept good time....down to the same minute as my test clock (cell phone).

I am glad I was able to repair this thing and the second hand "ticks" along. The quartz movement is a nice option but the second hand sweeps instead of ticks so I wanted to stick with the original movement if possible. It keeps good enough time for me. 1/4 mile at a time...
:)

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #243
Engine started

Dash installation went well. Wiring harnesses all in. Fenders installed. Radiator and core support in place. Time to fill with fluids and see if it runs. Primed the engine and then spent the next 30 minutes trying to get the distributor back in there and clocked how I wanted it. Eventually I got it back in there. I filled the carb via the vent tube until the accelerator pump squirted. Cranked the key and nothing. The started didn't even attempt to crank. Checked all the connections....had power in all the right spots but still no crank. I pulled out the wiring diagram and began checking my connections under the dash. For 1968, the under dash harness does not come with the ignition switch connector....apparently it's not reproduced so you have to reuse your original connector....just swap over to the new wire harness. Maybe I crossed up a wire so I checked they all seemed correct. I eventually found a pair of heavy gauge wires and then located them on the wiring diagram. Neutral Safety Switch. However, my car is a manual trans so I don't have that switch so I made a heavy gauge jumper wire. Turned the key to test and the engine fired right up.

I was quite surprised. I had never had a new engine fire up on the first crank before. I ran it at 2000 rpm per the camshaft break in sheet and the total advance was right at 32 degrees so my rough guess on the initial timing was nearly perfect. Engine ran pretty good. Dropped it down to idle and it sounded like I remember a round port 041 cam engine should sound. It's been a long time since I have heard one in person though....

Now I need to get the steering wheel on, install the master cylinder and front calipers. I just received them back from White Post Restorations. They sleeved and rebuilt them all and it looks like they did a fabulous job. Looking forward to the first spin around the block in the coming weeks. :)

Here is a video of the engine at idle if anyone is interested.

 

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