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Discussion Starter #22
I delivered the rolling chassis to the shop on Friday so it can be reunited with the body. I'll post some pictures when I get it back home. I was hoping to take it right to the shop doing the final body and paint but his shop is at capacity at the moment. I'll just keep going with the restoration of components.
 

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I delivered the rolling chassis to the shop on Friday so it can be reunited with the body. I'll post some pictures when I get it back home. I was hoping to take it right to the shop doing the final body and paint but his shop is at capacity at the moment. I'll just keep going with the restoration of components.

Looks great. I see that you added the rear sway bar - good choice. However, might I suggest that you add the upper/lower control arm braces. This will tie the 2 together and eliminate frame flex if you "use" the power of the engine. I like/used the UMI brand on my 1968 Lemans that I am rebuilding. This has been covered before on the forum's. 1964-1967 GM A-Body Control Arm Reinforcements/Frame Braces [4029] - $129.99 : UMI Performance, Inc. It is a bolt-in with all the parts you need - very easy. These arms have a slight bend to them to clear the floor pan as some brands can hit and you might have to do a little floor adjusting with the hammer. They are also adjustable so this makes it real easy to get your bolts lined up as frames/mounts are not always perfect.

Here is a lesser expensive version, and a copy of what the factory offered on the 4-speed cars, but they have no adjustments should you have any frame issues and they are not as heavy-duty as the UMI pieces. They don't need any additional bolts like the UMI set as they are flat stock and you would use your existing control arm bolts. There is nothing wrong with these and they are certainly better than no braces. https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964-72-gto/fp199#prettyPhoto

Just a suggestion. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks Jim,
I'll take all the suggestions you have. The car is actually a four speed just haven't got the new floor cut yet. It has the factory reinforcements but I'm going to have a closer look at those UMI parts. I have used their stuff before and it's great.

Thanks, Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #25
She is mated back to the frame. Here are a few pictures. All metal now, rust is completely gone. Unfortunately I had to bring it back home instead of right to the painter. He is booked up, I'll start detailing components and wait my turn. He does beautiful work so it's worth the wait.





 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well I got the call from the painter last week! Delivered it to his shop last night. Now I have some room in the garage to work on the components. I'll post some pictures as he progresses.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Here are a few recent ones from the body shop. Just about finished the the fine work and ready for final primer. Lots of hours to get to this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Starting to dig in on some of the sub assemblies while the car is at the painter. I'm way behind as I was tied up with some home improvement projects. Feels good to put something on the shelf complete and ready for install when the car comes back. Not going for factory correct, I'll detail the items that will show and make a difference. Items like this that are under the dash, I just want paint on it so it's clean and won't rust.
 

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Car looks beautiful ! A couple of quick questions:

(1) When the body was stripped, it looks like you painted the interior floors with a black coating. What did you use?

(2) What did you paint your pedal assembly with color and brand ?

(3) What size wheels did you get ?

(4) Do you have any pictures of the finished painted interior ? I am trying to decide on color and am interested in what people do on the inside vs. outside.

Thanks

Chris
 

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Just got some pictures back from the painter. I'm debating a black vinyl top. Let me know what you think.
Hope you did not do the vinyl top. My GTO had a factory one. When it went for the big repaint job, painter stripped off the vinyl top and found surface rust and pinholes (AAARRRGGH). Anyway, he repaired the metal, used quality primer, bc/cc, and she is looking good. With the potential rusting issues, I would never have another vinyl top. FWIW
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Chris,
The product I used on the floors inside and underneath is called Raptor. There are several similar products out there, another is called Lizard skin. Very similar to a bed liner.

I think I used the gloss black industrial paint in the spray bomb from Rustoleum. I use an etch primer first then topcoat.

Rear wheels are 18 x 9.5 and fronts are 17 x 8.

I'll try and get some of the interior. It's just a black my painter uses on most of his GM restos. I beleive it has what he calls a 20 or 40% flatening agent in it to reduce the glare off the dash.

Haven't bit the bullet on the top yet, thanks for the input. I have been thinking about alternatives but it will never see rain anyway.
Thanks, Rob
 

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Chris,
The product I used on the floors inside and underneath is called Raptor. There are several similar products out there, another is called Lizard skin. Very similar to a bed liner.

I think I used the gloss black industrial paint in the spray bomb from Rustoleum. I use an etch primer first then topcoat.

Rear wheels are 18 x 9.5 and fronts are 17 x 8.

I'll try and get some of the interior. It's just a black my painter uses on most of his GM restos. I beleive it has what he calls a 20 or 40% flatening agent in it to reduce the glare off the dash.

Haven't bit the bullet on the top yet, thanks for the input. I have been thinking about alternatives but it will never see rain anyway.
Thanks, Rob
Thanks Rob! Your car looks great! What is powering the beast :) ? Have you put it on the dyno ?
 
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