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Just a correction on what I wrote before - the primary reason I went to a remote filter was so I could use an oil accumulator. Using the Moroso dropped my oil pressure significantly.

The red and black stuff on the firewall in the second picture is the System 1. It has a cleanable/reusable filter.
 

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Got it, well I saw lemans guy comment to late I had already ordered the MSD can that came with that dist so I shouldn't have any fitment issues and hopefully it works ok. I have a fitting for direct manifold vacuum for my factory Pontiac gauge so I should be able to tee into that instead of going all the way up to the front of the carb right? And idk where I would fit a remote oil filter setup anywhere unless I relocated the washer fluid reservoir or ditch it, I've never used the squirters anyhow.
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I have been toying with the idea of a remote filter, so does the remote do much cooling or do you really need an oil cooler to make a difference in engine temp?? I wanted to run that tall Moroso oil filter but there's not enough clearance to the down pipe, I assume they have a port for the dash sending unit but not also need one for my under hood gauge so I guess I could use the tee I'm using now.
You don't really need a remote filter unless it is for clearance issues like headers. It might be of use to keep header heat off the filter, but you can also get a heat sink that can be installed on the outside of the filter. It will add more oil to the system, and more oil means you will now have more heat due to more oil capacity - the opposite of what you are looking to achieve. You may also experience oil drain back when the engine is shut off. Then when you start the engine, you will have to allow the engine to idle for a few seconds to build pressure - don't just fire it up and rev it.

I have, and will install, a remote oil filter set-up from Nitemare Performance on my '68, but I am after a specific look more than for its use. It will also make it easier for filter changes since I am running headers. It may help to keep some heat off the filter/oil, but my headers are coated.

An oil cooler should not be needed for the street. I would install an oil temp gauge before doing that so you know exactly what your temps run. If you were to install one, then get one that has a thermostat so it'll only channel oil when it reaches a temp to need the extra cooling.

Under hood temps can be a problem. If your hood has insulation, remove it. I would also get another factory hood insert and mill out the scoop centers just to allow heat out rather than any kind of ram air effect. If you wanted to play "king of the strip", remove the hood altogether and drive it for a few days like that and see if that has any effect. Just scribe the hinges where they bolt to the hood to make it easier to align & reinstall.

If you were to be road racing, then I could see an oil cooler, but I don't think you need one unless you choose to.
 

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Well see how you do with the MSD vac can. Make sure that you check the timing with a good timing light and ask some of the gang on here where you need to be. Bear, PJ, Army, Mr.Taylor, 052, and more can all help you get it right.

Just know what you got and then you can adjust as needed. Your engine looks super, if Butler built it it is first class all the way!
 

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Ya I'll probably leave the oil filter alone sounds like a lot of hassle and money for not much gain unless there's an oil filter cover I could get to shield heat, and a taller filter won't fit by the down pipe and then it's even closer to the heat. Have no hood insulation and I opened the scoop up.
 

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I have a Nova Novus idk digital light was thinking 16° before the can and I think it adds 10° max, what's the consensus? Butler built it in and dynoed it in 2014 as stock looking sleeper for a Firebird then the guy decided to go bigger hp so he never used it and wrapped it up. I painted it AMC blue..don't tell anyone...and I put everything else around the long block, I'm pretty proud of it if I say myself.
 

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26. Degrees 16 base + ten vac should give a nice cool smooth idle. Just make sure you have no starter kick back or hard starting. Pretty sure That MSD distributor like all these new ones, Petronix etc, retards the timing 4 degrees while cranking to avoid kickback.

so at 22 then cranking should be no problem. If itis you can dial the base back a degree two degrees and recheck.

find your Centrifigal timing and when and what RPM it is all in as well.
 

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5 or 6 years ago, I had all the same problems with my '68. I tried everything you guys all talked about on this forum. I could not get that thing to stop overheating. One day, I bought a new 16lb radiator cap, and it lived at 180 degrees for the rest of its life. I could not get that thing to overheat if I tried.
 

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Funny you say that because I was running a 13lb cap and didn't like how it looked so the one I wanted only came in 16lb so we'll see how it works, the drilled 160 stat went in today.
 

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Yes, Tin is spot on you absolutely need a 16 lb cap,...more pressure raises the boiling point of the antifreeze. So it will prevent boil over.
 
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