I bought a new Holley fuel regulator and it was defective, out of the box. Holley SUCKS now, not saying that's your issue... but dont assume anything is good, just cause its new
Running rich
My Tri Power is rich smells up the garage when running. I replaced the power valve, the needle under the float, checked the power piston it seemed fine when pressing & releasing.
I talked with John at Tri Power he checked my cam numbers for vacuum, theres plenty of vacuum. Im thinking the brand new regulator is bad, its a Holley adjusts to numbers fine, the spring of the power piston is weak? Not likely. Maybe a stronger spring?
I turne the adjustment screws all the way down then 1/2 turn out didnt help. So it would seem theres to much fuel getting into the carb
The float was correct distance setting 11/32 I beleive for center carbs.
I had thought possibly valve timing or adjustment bad. But have been told hydraulic valves dont need adjusting once set. anyone have any ideas?
Im thinking of bypassing the fuel regulator to start, turn it way down to start. you can see eberything in the pic I have another filter at the gas tank outlet. thats 2 filters
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I talked with John at Tri Power he checked my cam numbers for vacuum, theres plenty of vacuum. Im thinking the brand new regulator is bad, its a Holley adjusts to numbers fine, the spring of the power piston is weak? Not likely. Maybe a stronger spring?
I turne the adjustment screws all the way down then 1/2 turn out didnt help. So it would seem theres to much fuel getting into the carb
The float was correct distance setting 11/32 I beleive for center carbs.
I had thought possibly valve timing or adjustment bad. But have been told hydraulic valves dont need adjusting once set. anyone have any ideas?
Im thinking of bypassing the fuel regulator to start, turn it way down to start. you can see eberything in the pic I have another filter at the gas tank outlet. thats 2 filters
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1.) Suggest you get another valve cover breather on that driver's side. You really want 2 valve cover breathers or you may experience too much internal engine pressures at higher RPM's and develop a rear main seal leak or other seal leaks.
2.) How is your PCV valve hooked up and what type of PCV valve do you have? Is it working?
3.) Determining your engine is running rich based on smell won't tell you anything. A camshaft with a good amount of overlap will cause the extra fuel smell and have your eyes burning at idle - especially in a closed area like a garage.
4.) As suggested, engine needs to be up to temperature to check things. Have you tried removing the air cleaner to check that the choke is fully open when running AND, some of the tri-power air filter elements in the past have been known to be restrictive and don't flow well which would create a rich condition because you are not getting enough air in. I would do a vacuum test with air cleaner on and then air cleaner off and see if this changes anything.
5.) Timing may still be incorrect as well as too low of an engine idle speed when warmed up. Stock is 6 degree BTDC. You are not stock. I would try 10-11 BTDC and factory idle speed is 580-600 RPM's.
Sometimes if you adjust for higher idle RPM's, the higher angle of the throttle blades will uncover too much of the fuel transition slot at idle. It tends to make the idle rich, and the idle screws respond poorly to adjustments. This is where you may have to drill a couple small holes in the throttle blades to allow more air in to get the idle speed down.
www.onallcylinders.com
6.) Vacuum advance hose should be connected to the intake?
2.) How is your PCV valve hooked up and what type of PCV valve do you have? Is it working?
3.) Determining your engine is running rich based on smell won't tell you anything. A camshaft with a good amount of overlap will cause the extra fuel smell and have your eyes burning at idle - especially in a closed area like a garage.
4.) As suggested, engine needs to be up to temperature to check things. Have you tried removing the air cleaner to check that the choke is fully open when running AND, some of the tri-power air filter elements in the past have been known to be restrictive and don't flow well which would create a rich condition because you are not getting enough air in. I would do a vacuum test with air cleaner on and then air cleaner off and see if this changes anything.
5.) Timing may still be incorrect as well as too low of an engine idle speed when warmed up. Stock is 6 degree BTDC. You are not stock. I would try 10-11 BTDC and factory idle speed is 580-600 RPM's.
Sometimes if you adjust for higher idle RPM's, the higher angle of the throttle blades will uncover too much of the fuel transition slot at idle. It tends to make the idle rich, and the idle screws respond poorly to adjustments. This is where you may have to drill a couple small holes in the throttle blades to allow more air in to get the idle speed down.
The #1 Carburetor Tuning Problem...and How to Overcome It!
Engines produce vacuum, and over the past 120 years, engineers have contrived ingenious ways to harness its power to the engine’s induction system. Through a labyrinth of small-bore drillings in …
www.onallcylinders.com
6.) Vacuum advance hose should be connected to the intake?
1.) Suggest you get another valve cover breather on that driver's side. You really want 2 valve cover breathers or you may experience too much internal engine pressures at higher RPM's and develop a rear main seal leak or other seal leaks.
2.) How is your PCV valve hooked up and what type of PCV valve do you have? Is it working?
3.) Determining your engine is running rich based on smell won't tell you anything. A camshaft with a good amount of overlap will cause the extra fuel smell and have your eyes burning at idle - especially in a closed area like a garage.
4.) As suggested, engine needs to be up to temperature to check things. Have you tried removing the air cleaner to check that the choke is fully open when running AND, some of the tri-power air filter elements in the past have been known to be restrictive and don't flow well which would create a rich condition because you are not getting enough air in. I would do a vacuum test with air cleaner on and then air cleaner off and see if this changes anything.
5.) Timing may still be incorrect as well as too low of an engine idle speed when warmed up. Stock is 6 degree BTDC. You are not stock. I would try 10-11 BTDC and factory idle speed is 580-600 RPM's.
Sometimes if you adjust for higher idle RPM's, the higher angle of the throttle blades will uncover too much of the fuel transition slot at idle. It tends to make the idle rich, and the idle screws respond poorly to adjustments. This is where you may have to drill a couple small holes in the throttle blades to allow more air in to get the idle speed down.
The #1 Carburetor Tuning Problem...and How to Overcome It!
Engines produce vacuum, and over the past 120 years, engineers have contrived ingenious ways to harness its power to the engine’s induction system. Through a labyrinth of small-bore drillings in …
6.) Vacuum advance hose should be connected to the intake?
1.) Suggest you get another valve cover breather on that driver's side. You really want 2 valve cover breathers or you may experience too much internal engine pressures at higher RPM's and develop a rear main seal leak or other seal leaks.
2.) How is your PCV valve hooked up and what type of PCV valve do you have? Is it working?
3.) Determining your engine is running rich based on smell won't tell you anything. A camshaft with a good amount of overlap will cause the extra fuel smell and have your eyes burning at idle - especially in a closed area like a garage.
4.) As suggested, engine needs to be up to temperature to check things. Have you tried removing the air cleaner to check that the choke is fully open when running AND, some of the tri-power air filter elements in the past have been known to be restrictive and don't flow well which would create a rich condition because you are not getting enough air in. I would do a vacuum test with air cleaner on and then air cleaner off and see if this changes anything.
5.) Timing may still be incorrect as well as too low of an engine idle speed when warmed up. Stock is 6 degree BTDC. You are not stock. I would try 10-11 BTDC and factory idle speed is 580-600 RPM's.
Sometimes if you adjust for higher idle RPM's, the higher angle of the throttle blades will uncover too much of the fuel transition slot at idle. It tends to make the idle rich, and the idle screws respond poorly to adjustments. This is where you may have to drill a couple small holes in the throttle blades to allow more air in to get the idle speed down.
The #1 Carburetor Tuning Problem...and How to Overcome It!
Engines produce vacuum, and over the past 120 years, engineers have contrived ingenious ways to harness its power to the engine’s induction system. Through a labyrinth of small-bore drillings in …
6.) Vacuum advance hose should be connected to the intake?
The PCV valve is a stock one goes to the F fitting of the Tri Power setup. I dont know where else to put the hose connection of the F fitting. I wanted to install a Wagner PCV valve that may help. But it comes from the back of the block to the F fitting.1.) Suggest you get another valve cover breather on that driver's side. You really want 2 valve cover breathers or you may experience too much internal engine pressures at higher RPM's and develop a rear main seal leak or other seal leaks.
2.) How is your PCV valve hooked up and what type of PCV valve do you have? Is it working?
3.) Determining your engine is running rich based on smell won't tell you anything. A camshaft with a good amount of overlap will cause the extra fuel smell and have your eyes burning at idle - especially in a closed area like a garage.
4.) As suggested, engine needs to be up to temperature to check things. Have you tried removing the air cleaner to check that the choke is fully open when running AND, some of the tri-power air filter elements in the past have been known to be restrictive and don't flow well which would create a rich condition because you are not getting enough air in. I would do a vacuum test with air cleaner on and then air cleaner off and see if this changes anything.
5.) Timing may still be incorrect as well as too low of an engine idle speed when warmed up. Stock is 6 degree BTDC. You are not stock. I would try 10-11 BTDC and factory idle speed is 580-600 RPM's.
Sometimes if you adjust for higher idle RPM's, the higher angle of the throttle blades will uncover too much of the fuel transition slot at idle. It tends to make the idle rich, and the idle screws respond poorly to adjustments. This is where you may have to drill a couple small holes in the throttle blades to allow more air in to get the idle speed down.
The #1 Carburetor Tuning Problem...and How to Overcome It!
Engines produce vacuum, and over the past 120 years, engineers have contrived ingenious ways to harness its power to the engine’s induction system. Through a labyrinth of small-bore drillings in …
6.) Vacuum advance hose should be connected to the intake?
AsI stated John at Tri Power took my cam specs and told me theres should be plenty of vacuum. Its not loopey sounds stock, its a Lunati
I did do a vacuum reading cant remember if the air cleaner was on probably on. I'll try that.
And as I lay in bed thinking I thought the timing could be a issue.
What size & how many holes in the throttleblades?
Ive never done a timing so I'll have to look it up. Hell I've never done anything on a car exept change the oil.
Drive it til its worn out trade it in.
Thanks for your time I really appreciate it wish there was something I could do in return.
I have it around 3 psi right now its been 3 1/2- 4 as outlined by Tri Power recs.
I have looked down the center carb its not showing any fuel, I'll look at the other 2 when I get it all together, next few days.
I dont have the knowledge to what that last statement means. vacuum hooked to manifold with 8 degrees i.t.
My pcv valve is in the back of the engine comes out to the F fitting in the intake manifold. The other vacuum comes out of the front carb to the brake booster. When I ran my vacuum test I blocked it off, booster vacuum, as well as the engine port and just got the reading off the F fitting which was normal.
X2 X2 X2 X2 - once again, chasing too many variables to cure a symptom without starting at Step 1 and going down the list. This approach only turns out to be a waste of time and only gets deeper in to adjustments that are so out of wack that you can never right the ship again.
X2 X2 X2 X2 - once again, chasing too many variables to cure a symptom without starting at Step 1 and going down the list. This approach only turns out to be a waste of time and only gets deeper in to adjustments that are so out of wack that you can never right the ship again.
And Im famous for it!X2 X2 X2 X2 - once again, chasing too many variables to cure a symptom without starting at Step 1 and going down the list. This approach only turns out to be a waste of time and only gets deeper in to adjustments that are so out of wack that you can never right the ship again.
1 - 20 of 92 Posts
