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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

I'm just starting a restoration of my 1966 LeMans. Since this is my first restoration, I have a long road ahead of me.

My car has quiet a bit of body rust. Some surface, some rust through where patch panels will have to be used. Also quite a bit of rust on the frame but luckily it's still very solid. As we all know, "Rust Never Sleeps" which makes me feel any rust on the car is just getting worse if it's not addressed right away.

What I want to do is treat the rust now so it doesn't continue to rot while I work on other parts of the car. I've been researching rust encapsulators and feel this might be the avenue to go. Specifically the Eastwood brand.

Does anyone have experience with the spray on Eastwood Rust Encapsulator? Any advice and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

-KB-
 

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My opinion... if you are applying a rust encapsulator temporarily, you are wasting time and money. Eastwood products are really good. Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My opinion... if you are applying a rust encapsulator temporarily, you are wasting time and money. Eastwood products are really good. Matt
Thanks for your response.

You don't think I should address the surface rust before it gets any worse?

Just didn't want the surface rust to turn into "rust through" while I'm working on other parts of the car. Would create more work down the road.

PS. I'm all about saving time and money. ;-)

-KB-
 

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KB, not sure about your experience with body work, but there are a few on the forum that would recommend getting the Paintucation series DVDs presented by Kevin Tetz. Good stuff. Matt
 

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Hey Matt,

Since this is my first attempt at car restoration, my body work experience is very limited at best. But that never stopped me from doing anything before and it sure won't stop me now. I'm always into learning new things and have been watching YouTube video after YouTube video on car restoration. My neighbor across the street is well versed in welding and is currently restoring an 84 Camaro for his son. So I plan on utilizing his skills throughout this process.

But with that said, the DVD's sound like a great idea and I will look into them.

Any other opinions about the rust encapsulators from other members will be greatly appreciated! Thanks again.

-KB-
 

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Never used it personally, but I have a buddy that was restoring a 73 Super Beetle convertible that swore by POR 15. The stuff almost made him believe in god. I know that Eastwood also makes something actually called encapsulator, and I don't know how this is different... I've never done body work in my life, but maybe someone with more experience can weigh in.
 

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Never used it personally, but I have a buddy that was restoring a 73 Super Beetle convertible that swore by POR 15. The stuff almost made him believe in god. I know that Eastwood also makes something actually called encapsulator, and I don't know how this is different... I've never done body work in my life, but maybe someone with more experience can weigh in.
I used POR15 on my frame and would also recommend it for the frame and other components where the POR15 is the final finish. I don't think you can apply other finishes over it such as on the body. From reading other threads, you have to be very careful with mixing products.

In a similar thread, Bear recommended Picklex 20 for the bare metal that would later be finished. I have purchased some, but haven't tried it yet. It sounds like this would be great for the body.
 

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I've used the Eastwood rust products and like them a lot. There's one (I forget if it's the 'converter' or the 'encapsulator') that looks like chocolate milk when it's wet and turns the rust into a hard blue/black finish. The stuff takes a long time to dry (days) but works really well. I wouldn't hesitate to use it in areas where the final finish of the metal isn't very important (i.e. everywhere except for exterior sheet metal) because it does leave somewhat of a rough surface after it cures.

Bear
 

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I restored my first as well, a 66 Tempest, 2.5 years ago. I too had "surface" rust underneath on the frame rails and the underside of all of the floor pans. Nothing egregious, just your typical surface. Since I had no plans to finish the underside with the showroom shine you see on some of the more top dollar restorations I simply coated everything underneath with a few coats of the rubberized rust encapsulater you mention. It pretty much turns the entire underside into a relatively hard black surface with some texture to it. I did some mild brushing with a wire brush prior too as well, just to make sure anything loose or other debris was removed. As I said, that was 2.5 years ago and it looks as good now as it did when I finished it then. Certainly I'm not implying the rust is gone or anything similar, but the stuff does work pretty well as I can attest to. In my case the car is always garaged as well though and not driven when it's wet outside, albiufn it definitely is a driver and I take it out whenever I can for a spin. I'd say go this route if you're looking for relatively cheap and quick way to put a solid coating on everything that protects and looks halfway decent in the end. My two cents anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
KB, not sure about your experience with body work, but there are a few on the forum that would recommend getting the Paintucation series DVDs presented by Kevin Tetz. Good stuff. Matt
Just received the Paintucation DVD's in the mail. I'll let you guys know how they are after I watch them.
 

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The best low cost rust stopper is "Krud Kutters Must for Rust". The chemical formula and application is very close to the very expensive Picklex. I bought it at Lowe's in a quart bottle for about $13.00. I spray it on full strength and then rub with a scotch bright pad. I use a 50/50 diluted (with water) to wet it down again and then wipe it off. It gets down to the molecular level and kills the rust. It can be primed/painted over with no problem.
 

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The best low cost rust stopper is "Krud Kutters Must for Rust". The chemical formula and application is very close to the very expensive Picklex. I bought it at Lowe's in a quart bottle for about $13.00. I spray it on full strength and then rub with a scotch bright pad. I use a 50/50 diluted (with water) to wet it down again and then wipe it off. It gets down to the molecular level and kills the rust. It can be primed/painted over with no problem.
Thanks for the tip! Maybe I'll give this stuff a try.
 
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