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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I will be looking at a 1968 GTO convertible tomorrow (Monday Feb 1). I have gotten a PHS on my own and I have the billing sheet, the options sheet and a power train sheet. While I have the list of options on this car how can I tell if the motor in the car is original to that car?

I read in one instance the last 7 or 8 numbers of my vin will be stamped on the back side of the motor block near the firewall and somewhere on the tranny the last 6 numbers of my vin # should be present is this correct?

Is it important to see serial #s on the heads and intake?

Thank you all
 

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5 engine codes just for the automatic 4 codes for a MT. So need more information to tell you your codes. 4 sets of heads numbers. 2bbl would be 9791214 (14)4bbl 49791216bl (16) 4bbl w/RA 9792731 (31) resembles "37" 4bbl w/RAll 9793596 (96) Exhaust manifolds Std is different from HO & RA then RAll are different too. Well tell you the 68 as alot of 68 only numbers. But need more information to tell you what to look for. LES
 

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The vin on the block is located on the front passenger side by the timing cover. See attachment. The 1st digit "2" = pontiac, the second digit should be an "8" = 1968. Yes, the last 6 digits of the block should match the last 6 digits of the cars vin to be a numbers matching motor. The heads are date stamped. Ex. F228 F= June(A=Jan. and so on)22 = 22nd day, 8 = 1968. the date is located under the lip of the valve covers towards the front of the head. Tranny, I'm sorry but I can't help you there. The rearend is also date stamped like the heads, located by the cover. Also, look for a 2 letter stamped axle code located on the backside of the axle tube, drivers side. That should match the 2 letter code hilited on your PHS "power train sheet" under "axle identification". If it's a safety track(posi) it will begin with an Y or Z, otherwise, it will begin with a W.

Here's a link to engine code locations and code definitions:

Pontiac Engine Codes

Good luck....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
5 engine codes just for the automatic 4 codes for a MT. So need more information to tell you your codes. 4 sets of heads numbers. 2bbl would be 9791214 (14)4bbl 49791216bl (16) 4bbl w/RA 9792731 (31) resembles "37" 4bbl w/RAll 9793596 (96) Exhaust manifolds Std is different from HO & RA then RAll are different too. Well tell you the 68 as alot of 68 only numbers. But need more information to tell you what to look for. LES
Thank you, thank you, thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The vin on the block is located on the front passenger side by the timing cover. See attachment. The 1st digit "2" = pontiac, the second digit should be an "8" = 1968. Yes, the last 6 digits of the block should match the last 6 digits of the cars vin to be a numbers matching motor. The heads are date stamped. Ex. F228 F= June(A=Jan. and so on)22 = 22nd day, 8 = 1968. the date is located under the lip of the valve covers towards the front of the head. Tranny, I'm sorry but I can't help you there. The rearend is also date stamped like the heads, located by the cover. Also, look for a 2 letter stamped axle code located on the backside of the axle tube, drivers side. That should match the 2 letter code hilited on your PHS "power train sheet" under "axle identification". If it's a safety track(posi) it will begin with an Y or Z, otherwise, it will begin with a W.

Here's a link to engine code locations and code definitions:

Pontiac Engine Codes

Good luck....
Thank you very much as well. So the valve covers need to come off to read the part#?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
5 engine codes just for the automatic 4 codes for a MT. So need more information to tell you your codes. 4 sets of heads numbers. 2bbl would be 9791214 (14)4bbl 49791216bl (16) 4bbl w/RA 9792731 (31) resembles "37" 4bbl w/RAll 9793596 (96) Exhaust manifolds Std is different from HO & RA then RAll are different too. Well tell you the 68 as alot of 68 only numbers. But need more information to tell you what to look for. LES
I have 400CDI 350 4bbl Automatic. My search tells me blocvk casting #9790071

My tranny research tells me PX678B123456

My engine production# research tells me 28B123456
YS

I think they are all right. It's taken hours to try and figure it out for the first time
 

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Discussion Starter #8
5 engine codes just for the automatic 4 codes for a MT. So need more information to tell you your codes. 4 sets of heads numbers. 2bbl would be 9791214 (14)4bbl 49791216bl (16) 4bbl w/RA 9792731 (31) resembles "37" 4bbl w/RAll 9793596 (96) Exhaust manifolds Std is different from HO & RA then RAll are different too. Well tell you the 68 as alot of 68 only numbers. But need more information to tell you what to look for. LES
thank you I have ys motor code so 4BBL w/out Ram air = 49791219bl(16)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No. See attachment for date code, #3. You may have to crouch down a little tomorrow to see the code.
so redarding the heads one can only identify a date that would confirm a build date close to the blocks. There are no # on the heads that would include my vin# correct?
 

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so redarding the heads one can only identify a date that would confirm a build date close to the blocks. There are no # on the heads that would include my vin# correct?
That is correct no vin, on the heads. Mostly they will be in the built within a month of the block date though. LES:cheers
 

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9,980 GTO converlibles build in 68.The YS & 16 heads would be correct for the 350-4. 5,984 were automatics. If it was a RA or RAll auto it would be one of just 22. Intake casting # is 9794234. Left exhaust manifold # 9779032 Right exhaust 9799325.Carburetor assembly # is 70282268. Just FYI 2,108 were delivered with the chrome front bumper, 16 of which were Ram Air equiped GTO's Les
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright, I'm curious. How about an update? Was it everything the owner claimed it to be?
Well well well after 10 hours of driving and 600 miles. The car that had no rust needed a trunk pan, 2 quarters, a front fender, rocker work and rust around the windsheild, I didn't bother to pull up the carpet. Not bad at all.............urgh. Oh yea the last 300 miles were worst then the first.

Hey but live and learn. There is one out there for me some where
 

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Sorry it didn't work out. That's why it's so important to see these cars in person. Stinks about the long drive, only to be disappointed. Hang in there, there's a car out there just waiting for you. The chase is half the fun....
 

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That sucks......sorry to hear your disappointment. I've been there myself and twice as the cars were unloaded from the transport trucks. You're much better off for having seen it in person.
When are you flying to CA to see the Gold one....:D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When are you flying to CA to see the Gold one

When pigs fly and they let me to catch a ride

Cheers
 

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When pigs fly and they let me to catch a ride

Cheers
:lol:Not worth the trip in my eyes either. What I see there is a 3-4 year old eBay paint job to maximize the high resale then. The old issues are already surfacing and the appeal/value has dropped in half. Still with all those options and being a driver, it will fetch close to the asking. I would venture a 12k price and a few years to enjoy ownership before a proper restoration. Converts DO bring more than a hardtop any day.
 

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Top goes down, price goes up. Hang in there if you want one that doesn't need a ton of rust work. Most of them do and the few that don't seem to bring 30K plus.
 
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