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Discussion Starter #1
First some background on the engine. Original 1969 YS block and 62 heads. Shortblock was rebuilt in '97. Heads were ported, polished, gasket matched, valve job, new rocker studs and springs a year earlier. The rebuilt combo lived happily in the GOAT until 6 years ago when I took the car down to the frame. I had the heads worked on again, this time RAIV rocker studs, hardened valve seats and new springs. The short block was left alone except for a new cam and chain and a new rear main, then soda blasted to clean it up for paint. I used ARP head bolts and the same part# head gaskets that were on before. Neither the heads or block were milled. I am ready to fire it up finally. It would've fired up last weekend, but a bad coil fried my ignition box when I was trying to set static timing. I added one gallon of antifreeze and filled the rest with water. The thermostat and water neck are not on yet so I could make sure the water level was at least as high as the T-stat.
Now here is the issue. In the week since adding water both head gaskets seem to be seeping along the outer edge under the headers. But it is not clear water, it is different colors. Some spots are yellow, some are greenish, and some are brown. And some of the drops are stuck half drip, like whatever is mixed with it has enough surface tension to hold the drop. I can touch them and they drop like normal.
Anyone else seen anything like this with new head gaskets on a known engine? The correct answer should be..no problem at all, it is just a reaction between the soda and being grounded to the battery and the rapid weather changes lately here, its condensation....right? I really don't want to take the heads off again.
I am going to put the t-stat, water neck and upper hose on this weekend and pressure test the cooling system this weekend to see where it is coming from.

Whew...words, words and more words.....
 

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Never seen that on a Pontiac with a new build, Goatee. I HAVE heard some issues with a certain run of ARP head bolts being defective, and that is on the other forum. Just saw it a week or so ago. I've always used OEM head bolts, as they don't ever really wear out. If it's seeping even with no pressure on the system, you have a faulty sealing surface, warped heads, damaged gaskets, or the heads are loose. You'll need to pull the heads to find out the actual cause. Left unchecked, coolant weeping will only lead to corrosion and component failure, but you know that. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Geetee, thanks for the reply, I will see if I can find that thread. The more I think about it, the only really different part in the mix are the head bolts. Same block, heads, intake manifold and same brand head gasket. I wonder if the head bolts are a little too long and bottoming out when torqued down and not clamping the head. I was really wanting to hear it run before Christmas....crap!!
 

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That's great news! You just made my day, Goatee. I'd be tempted to drain the coolant and oil, and replace the bolts without pulling the heads again. Pull the spark plugs, blow compressed air into the cylinders to blow the water/coolant out of the sealing area, (go easy, 100psi not needed here!) re-torque with oem bolts, refill with oil and coolant, and run it. If it stll leaks (doubtful), you'll have to pull the heads and install new gaskets, which was your original plan anyway. But I'll bet you'll be ok, especially since you never fired it up. And you'll save yourself a bunch of back breaking labor, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I found seven that were too long. Three on the passenger side, four on the drivers. So, I picked up some hardened washers and put them on the longer bolts along with the ARP washers and torqued them all down properly. I still gotta crawl under and clean the block, frame and headers before the water goes back in, so I can see if it's still leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well......As I said before in another post I had "This car HATES you", once again the GOAT is fighting me. And this time it is below the belt, as I already have EVERYTHING ready to fire it up, but now I have to replace the head gaskets and really think about using the ARP head bolts. After checking the length of all the head bolts and adding washers to the offenders, I pressurized the cooling system to 16psi, and let it sit. The passenger side has zero leaks, but the drivers side has two leaks, about one drop every two minutes.
So....I was at the point where I was going to pour some "head gasket in a bottle" crap in to seal it up just to fire it up and break in the cam. But, that crap was $50 or more for the big bottle. A set of Butler head gaskets are $40. So, before I ruin the radiator and cooling system with a bunch of sludge, I am going to replace the head gaskets and maybe the head bolts. I really hate wasting money!!!!
Ok dear GOAT, you may have won this battle....but I will win the war!!
 

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Goatee, do yourself a favor and install original head bolts. They're USA made, don't wear out, and they FIT correctly. Long aftermarket bolts with washers can throw off your torque readings. "Get rid of that crap!"
 

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Head studs offer superior clamping to head bolts. Might be something to consider. They might be overkill for your application but I like them.

What about shortening the "new" bolts you have? :cheers


















And Bear.....enough with the Chevy bashing :shutme.
 
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