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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Since everyone under the sun is worried about heat soak and the LS1/2, I took these to see how bad the car heats up. Although the hood up pics were taken after a 15 or so minute drive on freeway and city streets (and the car was hot as hell), I don't think they fully represent how someone’s car at the track may heat up. So, with that said the first picture was after a 30 minute freeway drive. Yeah, it's pretty Hot.



I removed the Left Hood Scoop Insert for a comparison.





I was supprised to see the neck of the intake where it connects to the TB was not as white hot as expected.



Notice the line of heat starting from the center of the ribbed part of the intake and continuing to the right. I didn't notice until I was finished that that part of the engine bay was in direct sunlight. Between the last two pictures, you can see the difference. The black plastic does soak up sunlight quick. I'll have to take another pic when the engine is really hot and see if the intake looks hotter.
 

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you can see the reflection from the engine bay heat off the pavement in the first picture. Do you have a thermal scale that goes with the shades of gray to indicate temperature? How about some false color software to color code the temperatures, e.g., white hotests, followed by red, ... blue the coolest?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2005Goat said:
How do you take pics like that? Must be a very expensive camera. Amazing. May I repost these pictures elsewhere?
Yes, you can repost - No worries. The Imager used is from Thales Nederlands and I think they run around $250K. The US Navy ownes this one. ;)


Xman said:
you can see the reflection from the engine bay heat off the pavement in the first picture. Do you have a thermal scale that goes with the shades of gray to indicate temperature? How about some false color software to color code the temperatures, e.g., white hotests, followed by red, ... blue the coolest?
No thermal scales on this system, sorry....Our main goal with this system is to engage any hostile target with the smallest amount of heat signature.

And for those out there wondering, These images did not cost the tax payer any extra money. :D
Phalanx Block 1B
 

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I would assume that the radiator behind the grill is 192* (based off my digitial coolant temperature readout when you place the dash in the diagnostic mode - hold both mode and set while you turn your car on - then step to the ninth item). That means the air sitting up under the hood is that or more. Looks like a good reason to remove the plugs in the hood scoops.
 

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Those Phalanx systems are one of the coolest, most ingenious weapons systems ever created. A great idea and they sound wicked.
 

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You can purchase a hand held(video cam style) short or long wave infrared camera for about 20K-25K from a number of companies such as FLIR or Raytheon. They produce color as well. Just remember, infrared energy is only transmitted from a surface, so it's not much good for air flow, though you can see the result of air flow temp. on a surface, but that requires experience & expertise in thermal imaging. Surface emissivity(ability of a material to emmit infrared energy) can vary greatly, causing misleading readings. A simple thermalcouple & inexpensive digital readout/voltmeter will give a much better picture of actual air temp at a given location at a specific time. Typical air inlet(air box) reading here in Arizona on a 100 deg. day at 60 mph varies between 105-120 deg. depending on the model of vehicle. It can reach 160-180 after a 15 minute idle & spike several degrees higher during a soak(eng. off). Here at the GM Desert Proving Ground we are constantly trying to find ways to lower inlet temps & still pass all the mandatory tests, such as dust & water intrusion. I have no personal experience with the GTO because the Aussies come over & perform all their own thermal developement. Hope this helps.
 

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Great stuff- thanks for thinking of the idea and- most of all- posting it! :cheers

Thermal imagers are indeed great fun to play with!
 

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This has my vote for one of the best posts ever. Thanks.

GMDPGGTO
What have you done to lower intake temps on yours? Are your hood plugs still in, and what about the fuel rail covers? Anything with the intake?
 

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Nothing yet, other than install a LPE CAI. It did nothing to lower air inlet temp though. Performed A/B comparison using a thermalcouple probe with readout placed in the middle of inlet tube just in front of throttle body. After stabalizing the vehicle at 65 mph for 20 min. both systems were running 5-10 deg. above the 100 deg. anbient temp.
Waiting to see if anyone is going to offer an effective ram air system using the factory hood scoops. I'm going to buy or make a water or alcohol injection system at some point. I think those are the most effective & practical methods. Easy to make using a windshield washer system.
 

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GMDPGGTO said:
Nothing yet, other than install a LPE CAI. It did nothing to lower air inlet temp though. Performed A/B comparison using a thermalcouple probe with readout placed in the middle of inlet tube just in front of throttle body. After stabalizing the vehicle at 65 mph for 20 min. both systems were running 5-10 deg. above the 100 deg. anbient temp.
Waiting to see if anyone is going to offer an effective ram air system using the factory hood scoops. I'm going to buy or make a water or alcohol injection system at some point. I think those are the most effective & practical methods. Easy to make using a windshield washer system.
I would definitely be interested in a working ram air system. Can you expound on that water injection deal? Sounds interesting. Didn't Caddy try that years ago?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Here is a side by side comparrison between Cold (I drove it for a minute to get it in position) and Very Hot after 20 minutes of city driving AND a 15 minuite heat soak with the engine off. The air intake does show some heat, but until someone mounts a thermometer inside the intake will we really see what's going on temp wise, and I just read the post above. Someone has. Hoo_rah, Enjoy :cheers

 

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I made one about 20 years ago when they were popular so I'm a little rusty. Either use the current system on the car or make a duplicate, then route a hose & nozzle into the air inlet. Wire in a seperate switch & your done. The tricky parts are selecting a nozzle that emits a fine even spray & placement of the nozzle. Don't yet know the implications of placing the nozzle up or down stream of the MAF on a injected system but I'm thinking it's important. I'll research it & post later unless someone else chimes in first.
 
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