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Discussion Starter #1
started blocking the epoxy primer down today, the stuff is like ceramic,I am cutting it down with 80 grit and taking the peel out of it and exposing any low spots, scraping them with a thin coat of filler and sanding down to 120 grit before surfacing primer, plan is two more sand and prime coats before base coat. Question is, what should my final sand be before final primer coat?:confused
 

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I'm no expert, but when I did mine, my final before the prime coat was 320-400 grit. One thing I found when blocking my '67 was that a very LONG longboard helped get the panels wave free. I used an 18 incher, but now there are even better ones out there. Long longboards really get down to business when doing these cars. Also, they have rounded foam forms at auto body supply houses to use around your wheel housing lips, etc. Have fun.
 

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thanks GeeTee, just picked up 18" board and roll of 150, have foam tube also, thats what i was thinking first block down to 150, second down to 220, final down to 320, color sand base at 400-600 before clear, no expert either, just don't have the cash for a 5000 paint job
 

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Instg8ter,

The epoxy primer is terrible for sanding! I learned on the first fender I did, to scuff the epoxy primer and then use a 2K (2 part) High Fill Primer over it. It sprays on really thick. It's very easy to sand with a 120 grit and since it is slightly lighter in color you will see the high spots as you sand down to the darker epoxy primer. It truly is amazing how much waviness and imperfections you can eliminate with the high-fill primer.

Since I intended to use a urethane basecoat-clearcoat I chose to use this product for surfacing and block sanding;

Sherwin Williams FP410 and FH411 Hardener

Post Pics! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
will be using Matrix 2 part high fill dark gray over the black epoxy and Matrix BC/CC, the 80 grit seems to cut the epoxy down smooth w/o cutting through, figure it will save me a coat of primer if i use it as my guide coat as the epoxy is on there thick and hard as a rock, will shoot some pics tomorrow and post to my photobucket, have one fender blocked down have to go get the primer in the morning and a new compressor as mine decided to take a dump today, just when i need it most. Is removing the bumper at the frame mounts the easiest way? gonna take it one panel at a time so i do not overlook any spots.

http://s1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/instg8ter/1966 Tempest/
 

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Yes, Remove the bumpers WITH the frame mounts....as for the prep and paint.....I never touch the stuff. So I can't offer any advice. There are guys on the Performance Years Forum who are very knowledgable in this area. I think Randy (05GTO) did both his cars......:cheers Eric
 

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thanks GeeTee, just picked up 18" board and roll of 150, have foam tube also, thats what i was thinking first block down to 150, second down to 220, final down to 320, color sand base at 400-600 before clear, no expert either, just don't have the cash for a 5000 paint job
with most bc/cc paints it is not desirable to sand the base coat if you shoot clear within the recoat window. i usually wet sand with 400 before the primer sealer and base coat.
 

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using the matrix 2k primer there is no need to go any finer than 180 grit before priming. the key is you dont want any of the 80 grit scratches left so sand them out with the finer paper. when blocking the primer, finer paper (like 320,400 etc)rides over the humps more and doesnt cut things as flat as possible. no need to change grits as you go. block every primer coat with 180 then final sand with what you want to paint over. i like to paint over 600 wet, but i dont usually use sealer. you dont want to color sand the base before you clear it. you might get away with that on black or white or some solid color, but with the metallic blue it will ruin it. however i do like to slide a piece of 1000 grit over my base on the next to last coat to get rid of the trash that has accumulated, then spray on one final coat of base and start blasting clear.
 

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I agree with Eric having gone thru this a bunch of times. Use a floor jack and a helper to remove the bumpers. The washers are "keyed" into the frame and are adjustable. You may want to make note of their present position if the bumpers fit fine. I'm an stubborn old school guy with the paint, and I don't like clearcoat on these cars.....too shiny, and not how they looked when new. Also, I have yet to see a clearcoat that will last more than 10 or 12 years. The stuff flakes off like sunburn and you have to redo the whole car. I know that 98% of the pros use base/clear, and I hardly qualify as an amateur, but I like single stage paint jobs on these cars. I've got 26 year old paint on the '65 and 18 year old paint on the '67 and they still look great.
 

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using the matrix 2k primer there is no need to go any finer than 180 grit before priming. the key is you dont want any of the 80 grit scratches left so sand them out with the finer paper. when blocking the primer, finer paper (like 320,400 etc)rides over the humps more and doesnt cut things as flat as possible. no need to change grits as you go. block every primer coat with 180 then final sand with what you want to paint over. i like to paint over 600 wet, but i dont usually use sealer. you dont want to color sand the base before you clear it. you might get away with that on black or white or some solid color, but with the metallic blue it will ruin it. however i do like to slide a piece of 1000 grit over my base on the next to last coat to get rid of the trash that has accumulated, then spray on one final coat of base and start blasting clear.
I've seen his paintwork in pics, I would trust him!!:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #12
here,s where i am at, cutting body lines down until i just kiss metal, everything down to 120, will be pulling trim and detailing edges on drivers side hood and trunk over the weekend, then flip her around for the good side. will fill and smooth low spots then spray with 2K primer with guide coat and block to 180 to see where i am at.

looks like i can rent the HS spray booth and it is just 3 miles from my shop, will be able to trailer over and back so i may be painting before spring. have my daughter checking into it next week for me as her and her BF know all the shop teachers.

so, hopefully by june i will be posting a pick of my Bahama Blue Metallic Tempest in the reader's rides...Fingers still crossed. Happy New Years Guys!!! be safe
 

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here,s where i am at, cutting body lines down until i just kiss metal, everything down to 120, will be pulling trim and detailing edges on drivers side hood and trunk over the weekend, then flip her around for the good side. will fill and smooth low spots then spray with 2K primer with guide coat and block to 180 to see where i am at.

looks like i can rent the HS spray booth and it is just 3 miles from my shop, will be able to trailer over and back so i may be painting before spring. have my daughter checking into it next week for me as her and her BF know all the shop teachers.

so, hopefully by june i will be posting a pick of my Bahama Blue Metallic Tempest in the reader's rides...Fingers still crossed. Happy New Years Guys!!! be safe
if you want to keep your body lines straight put a piece of masking tape as straight as you can so one edge of the tape is right on the peak of the body line. then put your guidecoat on and then block sand up to that edge in a diagnal motion. when you have it sanded bemove the tape and put it on the other side of the body line and sand up to it again. that will help you keep the body lines straight.

you should have already removed the mirrors, door handles,locks and bumpers.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
:agree Free, just got a little ahead of myself on blocking, chrome is coming off first thing tommorow before i do my skim coat. I will work the edges and details while its drying and I have to do a little shimming on the front fender. All in all for a 45 year old car it is pretty straight.
 

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thanks shane, should i let it cure out for a few weeks after 2k primer and final block sand to get it straight before i lay base and clear, i hear that way any sanding scratches will show up and be taken down with the wet sand to 400 and 600
 

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thanks shane, should i let it cure out for a few weeks after 2k primer and final block sand to get it straight before i lay base and clear, i hear that way any sanding scratches will show up and be taken down with the wet sand to 400 and 600
its not necessary. follow the directions of the paint maufacturer and stay within their recoat windows.
 

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heat is more important than time. i know its tough this time of year especially where you are but getting it good and hot for a couple hours will do more good than sitting a few weeks at 40 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
skim coated filler over the low spots and have cut them back down except for rocker panel and back of quarter. Is it natural for the door to "belly" out a little from the gap at the fender, i realigned the fender it was a little proud, so the edges are aligned and the body lines are correct. I ran a skim coat over it to smooth it in somewhat, seems to be a natural crown to the door panel as the other side is similar. should have this side ready for primer in the next few days.
 
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