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Discussion Starter #1
hi, i got my new quick ratio power steering box today installed it all good, did the bleed method turned wheel lock to lock with engine off until air bubbles were gone and fluid level stayed up, started car but steering wheel was very hard to turn, i kept turning left to right , then fluid squirted out of pump, and the pump was very very hot, i wiped the fluid off the pump and the paint came off the pump it was that hot, you could not touch pump without burning fingers, but the steering box was normal not hot at all, so i cant get this new steering box to work, there is no power assist, i did notice on my other boxes there is something maybe a valve inside the inlet pressure connection port, you can see it easy, but the new box has nothing inside the port i'm not sure if thats a problem, not sure what to do from here as we cannot make it work, my mechanic assumed an air bubble but how can we turn wheel lock to lock when the pump becomes so hot....any ideas anyone...thanks
 

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Try this method. It was given to me buy a guy who has a business rebuilding power steering units. He did mine, and I'm happy with it.
First: flush the steering unit out. Do this by disconnecting the low pressure hose that returns to the pump and putting the end of the hose in a clean clear container. With the ENGINE OFF --- turn the wheel lock to lock until you can't get any more fluid to come out. Closely inspect the fluid (this is why you used a clear container) looking for any sort of debris that isn't fluid. If you find anything, there's a good chance that the unit or the pump (or both) are damaged. Hydaulic systems REALLY don't like contamination. If you do find something, you can try repeatedly fiilling (using the procedure below) and draining the system (using new clean fluid each time) to see if you can flush all the contamination out.

Refill procedure:
Center the wheel, fill the reservoir, start the engine and let it run for a few seconds (less than 5).
*DON"T TOUCH THE STEERING WHEEL.*
Kill the engine and recheck fluid level, topping off as needed.

Repeat the above until you go through several "cycles" and the fluid level stays the same (you don't need to add any)

Next, start the engine, turn the wheel about 1/8 turn right and left - ONE TIME. Shut off engine, recheck/refill fluid.

Repeat above until fluid level doesn't change.

Repeat cycles as above, using gradually larger and larger movements of the steering wheel for each set of cycles until you get to the point where you can turn the wheel lock to lock without having to add any fluid to the reservoir to keep it at the correct level.

If at any point something doesn't seem "right", stop. There could be something wrong in either the pump or the box.

Bear
 

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did you connect the pressure hose to the correct port on the box? Check valve inline could have seized with the heat. also extreme heat will cook the steering fluid, seals and bearings doubt it will not have a problem now.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
did you connect the pressure hose to the correct port on the box? Check valve inline could have seized with the heat. also extreme heat will cook the steering fluid, seals and bearings doubt it will not have a problem now.
i took out the new replacement box that overheated everything....installed the original box but this time we changed the stop on the end of the box so i now have full left turning abilty...this was the reason i bought the new box, my mechanic only told me today he could change the stop on the old box...so all is ok, pump still works fine, old box back in with correct stop....i am asking for a refund on this new box i got..... i got the old box from rock auto they argued that the stops are correct, i took the stop out and sat it beside the stop in the factory box, the rock auto stop was much bigger, this is why i could not turn left, rock wont refund they argue i installed the box wrong, i got pics i have the proof, there stops were wrong, rock cost me over $1000 in wasted mechanic cost and the wrong stop box....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Try this method. It was given to me buy a guy who has a business rebuilding power steering units. He did mine, and I'm happy with it.
First: flush the steering unit out. Do this by disconnecting the low pressure hose that returns to the pump and putting the end of the hose in a clean clear container. With the ENGINE OFF --- turn the wheel lock to lock until you can't get any more fluid to come out. Closely inspect the fluid (this is why you used a clear container) looking for any sort of debris that isn't fluid. If you find anything, there's a good chance that the unit or the pump (or both) are damaged. Hydaulic systems REALLY don't like contamination. If you do find something, you can try repeatedly fiilling (using the procedure below) and draining the system (using new clean fluid each time) to see if you can flush all the contamination out.

Refill procedure:
Center the wheel, fill the reservoir, start the engine and let it run for a few seconds (less than 5).
*DON"T TOUCH THE STEERING WHEEL.*
Kill the engine and recheck fluid level, topping off as needed.

Repeat the above until you go through several "cycles" and the fluid level stays the same (you don't need to add any)

Next, start the engine, turn the wheel about 1/8 turn right and left - ONE TIME. Shut off engine, recheck/refill fluid.

Repeat above until fluid level doesn't change.

Repeat cycles as above, using gradually larger and larger movements of the steering wheel for each set of cycles until you get to the point where you can turn the wheel lock to lock without having to add any fluid to the reservoir to keep it at the correct level.

If at any point something doesn't seem "right", stop. There could be something wrong in either the pump or the box.

Bear
thanks bear i followed the instructions and all bled easy....all good now...
 
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