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I've been looking at upgrading my audio system first thing this month.

Does the stock head unit have RCA preamp outputs?

I want better audio and would probably be satisfied with a decent amp feeding my speakers. Maybe a subwoofer, but I don't know yet.

Anyone do this kind of work with any advice?
 

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There is no RCA pre-amps out puts. You can add a RCA line converter or you can pull the signal from the stock amp. I have not done so yet but planning on it.
 

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:agree

Yeah, you can buy the line converters from your favorite electronics supplier. They are realtively small and can be hidden easily but you will need to buy patch cables (RCA cables) to run from the converter to the amp.

The other route is to buy an amp with line level inputs. In this case the amp comes with a harness that you connect to your speaker wires and then plug it into the amp (amp has the converter inside of it). If you are running only one amp you will not need patch cables so you could save a little money that way.

I would definitely recommend going with the first option as if you plan on expanding you system in the future it will be a bit easier.

Either way let us know how it goes!
 

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yeah, i am kinda in the same boat wondering about available and suggested upgrades to the sound system. I've had a Kenwood ddx512 deck put in, and am looking into getting maybe 10" or 12" Kicker L7 subs in the trunk. I am running into the problem of porting the sound into the cabin, due to the gas tank being behind the seat. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Feel free to email me... THX
 

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yeah, i am kinda in the same boat wondering about available and suggested upgrades to the sound system. I've had a Kenwood ddx512 deck put in, and am looking into getting maybe 10" or 12" Kicker L7 subs in the trunk. I am running into the problem of porting the sound into the cabin, due to the gas tank being behind the seat. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Feel free to email me... THX
Depending on the amount of bass you want... you have several options....

1. As a audiophile, I'd recommend an infinite baffle, commonly mis-named "Free-Air" setup. You get yourself 2 8" woofers that can play/perform well in an infinite baffle setup, small amp... and voila. In case you're like WTF is infinite baffle... it's a sub w/out a box... well kind of. Your trunk acts as a box. Your OEM woofers in the back deck... 7"... are an infinite baffle setup. You can have plates made to accomodate the larger woffers in the OEM spot, even mount the new amp in the original location. The reason I recommend this setup is because "NO" woofer over 8-10" is accurate. They're all sloppy bass producing drums. For this setup, Kicker Comp 8"s are great, if on a budget... if you have lots of $$$ Dynaudio makes some phenomenal 8" woofers that will make you have an "Aural Orgasm" lol.

2. If you want just crazy bass... a semi ported/bandpass would be best. You have someone who knows what they're doing, ask if they've ever used a program to calculate airspace, resonance, freq response, and "Q". Some of the big names in programs are "Bass Masters", "Bass Pro"... and there are numerous others. A good indicator of people who know something about good sound, are "AudioControl" dealers who have a RTA. If you are in luck, that would be your best place to have your box built. Only drawback is that anyone who knows the above... will charge accordingly... I used to. They will build a ported box, using your OEM woofer cutouts, as ports to transfer the pressure from the box into the cabin. The reason you should find someone qualified for this is that you can't just build it, throw some PVC pipes on a box, run those to the cabin, and expect it to sound half-way decent. The diameter, length, bends, of the ports, the angle of the rear deck glass, size of the airspace inside the box, amp output, sub characteristics are all calculated and must be built to spec. It'll be amazing... but expensive. If you can't find/afford this route.....

3. Remove OEM woofers, buy any name-brand (alpine, Kenwood, RF, MTXC etc..) advertised dual 12" combo from Fry's or any other retailer. Throw it in the trunk and Bang-On. Enjoy the trunk rattle, sloppy bass, and inaccurate, as well as off beat "beats".
 

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Hi,
I'm in the process of adding a new sound system to my 05.
I have a JVC KW-AVX810 temporarily installed to the stock speaker system.
It's amazing how much better it sounds!! Much clearer and more bass than
the Blaupsuck unit. I have amps and new speaker, but no time to install them,
yet. The output is only 20 watts RMS x 4, but sounds soooo much stronger
than the stock unit. I could easily blow the stock speaker but turning it
full volume.
What's also strange, the stock sub amp hasn't ever turned off (Got Hot).
Even with it turned up LOUD. With the stock head unit it would turn off
at output levels MUCH lower than I run now.
I cant wait to get my speakers, amps, and sub in.
I may also move my battery to the trunk. I've wanted to for awhile,
and it will make the amp hookups much easier
Will post pictures when I can.


Larry
 

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does anyone know which wire off the stock amp I can tie into to use as the remote power? I know I have to run a power wire and am going to tie into the speaker wires for the rca output but I dont want to run a bunch of wires thru the interior.
 

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does anyone know which wire off the stock amp I can tie into to use as the remote power? I know I have to run a power wire and am going to tie into the speaker wires for the rca output but I dont want to run a bunch of wires thru the interior.
On the back of the stereo there are two power wires. One is switched power (usually red) and the other is constant power (usually yellow). The colors may be different so you'll need to check with a wiring diagram for you car to make sure. I haven't messed with the stereo in my goat yet so I'm not sure of the colors. You can splice your remote turn on wire that goes to the amp to the switched power wire on the back of your stereo. It doesn't take a huge gauge wire for this so you can run it with your power wire that you are already running from your battery and it shouldn't be a problem.

Or...

You can sometimes splice your remote wire for the amp into a speaker wire. If you have a line converter that you are going to splice into the speaker wires check to see if it has a remote wire on it. My friend bought one and much to my surprise it had a remote wire right on it. I had never seen it before but it works fine.

The first way is the better way to go, but if you aren't keen on running the wires the second should suffice as long as you are running only one amp.
 

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lol, pretty crazy i never knew that there was a factory installed amp in my gto already. can someone tell me the best (max size) speakers that particular amp can push, if i wanted to upgraded my rear speakers??
 

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Thanks Abynorml, I haven't checked my line converter yet. That would be really convenient if it works. Then all I would have to run is a power wire. Thanks again.
 

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Probably the most common upgrades to the stock stereo system, in order are:

1. Turn up the stock sub amp gain. Big improvement.
2. Turn off the electronic EQ. Noticible improvement.
3. Turn off the distortion limiter.
4. Replace the stock front and rear speakers.
5. Replace the subs and add an amp.

Unless you are going to just replace the 6.5" subs with similar 2 ohm speakers, then you are going to want another amp to drive them, as the stocker is something like 45 watts.

I replaced my stockers with JBL GTO components, and added 2-8" kicker subs (Free Air compatible) in the rear deck, along with a 500W amp to power the subs. The amp had high level inputs, so no LOC was needed. It also had a remote volume control, which is nice.

As for the remote wire, I used the unused fuse slot #18. This way, I had a fused connection to my remote turn on.

Here is a link to my install with some picks:

GTO Sub Install

Regards,

Gary
 

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Probably the most common upgrades to the stock stereo system, in order are:

1. Turn up the stock sub amp gain. Big improvement.
2. Turn off the electronic EQ. Noticible improvement.
3. Turn off the distortion limiter.
4. Replace the stock front and rear speakers.
5. Replace the subs and add an amp.

Unless you are going to just replace the 6.5" subs with similar 2 ohm speakers, then you are going to want another amp to drive them, as the stocker is something like 45 watts.

I replaced my stockers with JBL GTO components, and added 2-8" kicker subs (Free Air compatible) in the rear deck, along with a 500W amp to power the subs. The amp had high level inputs, so no LOC was needed. It also had a remote volume control, which is nice.

As for the remote wire, I used the unused fuse slot #18. This way, I had a fused connection to my remote turn on.

Here is a link to my install with some picks:

GTO Sub Install

Regards,

Gary
You're the man Gary.

That's the same setup I've been pushing for years. You're probably pushing too much power to the subs. Also, it's not a free air, but infinite baffle setup. You're trunk is acting like a box... an oversized one at that. Hence the inability to control the movement of the speaker, and sloppy sound. Try turning the gain down on the amp, if not even trying a smaller amp. For those speakers, a 200watt rms amp should've been more than sufficient.
 

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Hi exwrx,
Actually, the amp is a cheap Boss 500W model. I got it for the price, and that it had high level inputs as well as a remote volume option.

It is putting 250W peak to each channel, and RMS is only in the range of 125W or so. I have the gain and bass boost at around midpoint. It is still pretty sensitive, and I have just started to play around with the settings a little to see if I can dial it in a little more.

As for free air or infinite baffle compatibility, you are right, in that it is really an infinite baffle compatible sub. I tend to use the terms interchangeably when really I shouldn't. Is there a cut-off for "enclosure size" at which you would state that the system is free air, and not infinite baffle?

Regards,

Gary
 

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I've been looking at upgrading my audio system first thing this month.

Does the stock head unit have RCA preamp outputs?

I want better audio and would probably be satisfied with a decent amp feeding my speakers. Maybe a subwoofer, but I don't know yet.

Anyone do this kind of work with any advice?
Try adjusting your stock amp 1st

#1, open your trunk and unclip the the cover on the D/S wheel well.

#2, you will see a small box about the size of a pack of smokes . This box has a small dial on it and it is set from the factory in the middle position.

#3. With you in the car , have someone turn the dial in both directions till you get the sound you are looking for then you can fine tune from the drivers seat
 

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Hi exwrx,
Actually, the amp is a cheap Boss 500W model. I got it for the price, and that it had high level inputs as well as a remote volume option.

It is putting 250W peak to each channel, and RMS is only in the range of 125W or so. I have the gain and bass boost at around midpoint. It is still pretty sensitive, and I have just started to play around with the settings a little to see if I can dial it in a little more.

As for free air or infinite baffle compatibility, you are right, in that it is really an infinite baffle compatible sub. I tend to use the terms interchangeably when really I shouldn't. Is there a cut-off for "enclosure size" at which you would state that the system is free air, and not infinite baffle?

Regards,

Gary

Not to hijack the thread here.... but technically, "any" enclosure, no matter how ridilculously large will be an infinite baffle. Realistically, I'd say depending on woofer/power, anything that affects the speakers ability to play. Meaning that a box that produces a sound no different than putting the speaker on the floor.

No worries about the infinite baffle/free air. 99% of the car audio world wouldn't know the difference. Especially those who've only gotten involved within the last 5 years.
 

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get rid of it all did not like the way the stock system sounded so i put in a pioneer avic- d3 nav in the dash pioneer 6 3/4 componet ts-d1720c in door and dash pioneer ts-d1602r in the back side panels and the same the factory sub holes and put a mephies bell amp 75x4 1100x1 5 ch and a kicker L7 15 in the spare tire well saving trunk space and know it rocks the way i like it.
 

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Probably the most common upgrades to the stock stereo system, in order are:

1. Turn up the stock sub amp gain. Big improvement.
2. Turn off the electronic EQ. Noticible improvement.
3. Turn off the distortion limiter.
4. Replace the stock front and rear speakers.
5. Replace the subs and add an amp.

Unless you are going to just replace the 6.5" subs with similar 2 ohm speakers, then you are going to want another amp to drive them, as the stocker is something like 45 watts.

I replaced my stockers with JBL GTO components, and added 2-8" kicker subs (Free Air compatible) in the rear deck, along with a 500W amp to power the subs. The amp had high level inputs, so no LOC was needed. It also had a remote volume control, which is nice.

As for the remote wire, I used the unused fuse slot #18. This way, I had a fused connection to my remote turn on.

Here is a link to my install with some picks:

GTO Sub Install

Regards,

Gary



i know this is a old post but this is exactly what i was lookin for! thanks for the write up and pictures showing how u did this.

maybe sumone else might have have been searching too for this.

all im lookin for is about twice the sound of our stock subs and ill call it plenty good:)
 
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