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Other than the obvious things when purchasing any used car, what should I be specifically watching for? I know you have to be aware of 'clones' people try to pass off, as well as claiming matching numbers. So when out looking at car, where do I find numbers on things to validate numbers matching, etc. I know if I find one I'm serious about, I'll do that Pontiac document thing, but I want to know as much as I can while on site. I owned a 68 as youth and spent tons of time working on it, etc. so I know how to spot lots of things I noticed like a 69 grill on a 68, correct console, seats, steering wheel, etc. As a side note, I'm always amazed when looking at pics just how often I see 69 seats in a 68, or the wrong front valance, grill, etc. I know as with most used cars, rust likes to happen in the lower trunk sides, rocker panels, etc. But are there more specific things I should be aware regarding a 68 that are don't go there. If hood is kinked for example, is fixing or replacing an issue? Missing item that are problematic to find replacements, as I understand the endurance bumper is hard to find? I want to pick everyone's brain as much as possible before I start the process, to try my best to get experience before getting experience, if you know what I mean. I know there are going to be suprises pop up after any purchase of a 47 years old vehicle, but I want to have the best possible idea before tackling a particular vehicle. I'm not looking to do a concours show quality or frame off but have it solid, clean and dependable car I can enjoy. Should never have sold mine, but we all have some of those regrets I guess.

As always, all input is really appreciated.
 

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I got my '68 Dream car GTO last year. Luckily it was a CA car and rust wise nothing to worry about....except in the trunk where the rear window "gutter' leaks into the trunk and causes rust/rust-out. Problem is that if let go, it starts to rust the rear cross member holding the suspension on. ARGGH! my brother is a Chevelle man so I've learned alot from him as the defects cover all the GM divisions. The geat folks on this forum ID'd my mystery engine as a 428 so I am a happy camper with that. I wanted a solid body but numbers matching did not matter...1st-budget, 2nd- I wanted a driver so didn't want to expose a rare car to the hazards of traffic.
Good luck with your search...mine took me 5 years and the happiness is worth it!
 

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Hey Mickey, fellow Texan, welcome. In terms of the condition issues, you've pretty well got it. Those are the areas to really inspect closely for signs of repairs, poorly done. Also on 68 and up, check the lower edges of the front fenders between the door edge and wheel opening. That's another very common problem area for rust on these cars. Most often it will be just below the body line in that area.

If 'numbers matching' is something you care about, then there are other places on the internet to find all the locations for vin stamps, which varies depending on model year. I won't try to go into all of them here, but holler at us if you find a specific car and have problems verifying it.
Whereabouts in the ********* State are you? I'm in the boonies between Weatherford and Springtown.

Bear
 

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Pontiac gave the GTO it's own vin prefix "242" from 66-71. so as long as it is 24237 (Coupe) or 24267 (Convertible) you have a true GTO. 68 was also the first year they put the vin # on the drivers side dash down by the windshield. It is pretty hard to fake those. As Bear already said once you find a car, any questions just ask.

I would also look at the rear windshield at the bottom for rust. pretty common area at the pinch weld. Hope this helps you a little.

John
 

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A phs is probably the best money you can spend. I also found the book "The Restorer's Guide 1964-1972 " helpful

And last post your questions on this forum. There are lots of folks on here that are really passionate about the cars and some real knowleable folks who will answer almost oll of your questions.

In a previous post I was amazed that someone was able to distinguish that the seat covers were backwards, Use this forum. it is a great tool
 

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In looking at the VIN and cowl tag on a project car or a restored car, I always carefully look at how both tags are attached. Another key point I always look at is the frame part number, date code,and two letter frame code. All are stamped on the left rear frame rail near where the tailpipe hanger attaches. Unfortunately, there have been tag thieves out there for decades, and there are a LOT of quickee "restorers" around today that are unethical and have no problem burning a buyer with a rebodied car.
 
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