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Now the fun begins. Damn spring caps breaking more and more, gonna remove them all. Alternator out for rebuild its original to car and never opened, 40 years with no problems. Motor mounts were shot really bad some Einstein ran the cross over fuel line UNDER the motor instead of along side the xmember and the motor was partially resting on it flattening some spots, it was starved for fuel but it ran great. Parts out for powder coating.

Will open valley pan up after I sand blast the motor, hoping for no hidden surprises. NO MORE FRAM either, Radiator is original out for pressure testing and inspection. Engine bay should be pretty close to concourse when finished. NAPA, Ames and inline tube love me. Will post up more pics as it progresses.

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just bookmarked Inline Tube link from other thread, damn, wish i would have known they were right down the street (20 miles) from me, would have saved a ton on shipping charges....they need a new name, like EVERYTHING RESTO that shows up in searches, i would buy stock, can't help but like silver cars Judge, both look sharp bet you can't help but smile when you walk into your garage with them side by side
 

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Discussion Starter #4
just bookmarked Inline Tube link from other thread, damn, wish i would have known they were right down the street (20 miles) from me, would have saved a ton on shipping charges....they need a new name, like EVERYTHING RESTO that shows up in searches, i would buy stock, can't help but like silver cars Judge, both look sharp bet you can't help but smile when you walk into your garage with them side by side
I smile :D and plenty of rubberneckes as they pass by with the door up. But my wallet........ it :eek: frowns.

I have one to drive while one is down.
 

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Judge, Lookin' good!....at least you still HAVE a wallet. Mine wore out from taking it out and emptying it so often!!!! "Good for The economy":cheers:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I installed Budzter spring spacers in the rear last year and it gave it more lift which is what I wanted (1-1/2) The 3" pypes needed more clearance and I wanted the '70's look without air shocks.. The nose sits a little low. I want to lift the front end a tad would new springs do this? I don't want a baja look.
 

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Now the fun begins. Damn spring caps breaking more and more, gonna remove them all.
Good plan. They're just oil shields. If you've got good valve stem seals you don't need them at all - plus deep-sixing them removes some mass from the valve train which is always a good thing.

Bear
 

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I installed Budzter spring spacers in the rear last year and it gave it more lift which is what I wanted (1-1/2) The 3" pypes needed more clearance and I wanted the '70's look without air shocks.. The nose sits a little low. I want to lift the front end a tad would new springs do this? I don't want a baja look.
Depending on how well your wallet is recovering :D and how much you care about "original", the hot ticket to get adjustable ride height is to convert to a coil-over system. You can go with new/heavier springs, but be aware they'll have a negative effect on ride quaility and also weight transfer at launch - if you care about that.

Also, probably not something you want to hear but unless you're making north of 550 hp, that 3" exhaust is going to do bad things to your low end torque. Oughta sound good though... :cool

Bear
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Depending on how well your wallet is recovering :D and how much you care about "original", the hot ticket to get adjustable ride height is to convert to a coil-over system. You can go with new/heavier springs, but be aware they'll have a negative effect on ride quaility and also weight transfer at launch - if you care about that.

Also, probably not something you want to hear but unless you're making north of 550 hp, that 3" exhaust is going to do bad things to your low end torque. Oughta sound good though... :cool

Bear
Exhaust was on the car when I got it, 3" not my choice but I am focused on getting this thing back to its glory and de-bastardizing what someone did to it, looks like a chop shop did some of the work on it. It sounds nasty though, I get people at traffic lights loving it. The springs may be original I may replace with a good set of new ones and see if it doesn't yield me an inch or so in ride height.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Well got the motor sandblasted just a few spots to touch up on before paint prep. Removed the valley pan and was pleasantly surprised at how clean it was not a spot of sludge. Damn sand gets everywhere despite a good prep got to clean up the valve area good. She gets painted with Eastwood ceramic paint the week of Dec 14th will show progression.

Ton of new parts coming OUCH my wallet hurts. Found a nice set of grilles ta-boot.
Radiator pressure tested was told the insides are remarkably clean, repainted and ready to install.

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Discussion Starter #16
One more step completed. Finished restoring a set of grilles in Judge colors and emblem today. Tearing part of motor down this weekend to see further how it looks in there and clean up, Huge Ames order arrived today... along with frigid cold and first dusting of snow.
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Nice clean looking motor, congrats!
What are doing to the engine?
Got a little media in the intake valve and timing chain area despite a good sealing up, should have left more parts on the motor then removed after blasting (hindsight). So tearing apart and cleaning and flushing with lots of kerosene into the oil pan. Repeating the process dozens of times despite seeing no sand, wanna make sure its all out. Timing chain areas is done will clean the cover good for paint since its off. Flushing intake area out. Flushed out the distributor area too, so everything is looking good. Today those oil caps come off some broken and pieces wedged in the valve springs. Anyone having them I'd keep an eye on them, not replacing them don't need this worry again. 40 years of stress and wear has taken its toll on them. Will clean and flush again. Took the valley pan and intake to be cooked and jet washed. I blasted them and they turned out nice but since they are off will have them cleaned good for paint.

Glad I did cause they noticed the 2 holes on the rear of the carb mount were stripped despite the screws backing out with tension. Gonna tap them. Don't need a vacuum leak once it goes back.

This is all too new to me but I will never media blast a motor again, learning curves here but there was 3 layers of paint on the engine I found, and applying ceramic paint, this I was told was the best prep. I have help from some friends that know what they are doing engine wise and painting.
The upside about this is as I tear apart parts of the motor I can see and inspect anything that may abby-normal but everything looks great. The motor is in great shape. Everything is nice and clean, judging by the appearance the motor doesn't appear to have that many miles on it I was told about 60,000 when I bought it but it couldn't be confirmed. I can't identify the cam but am told its a beffy one. Valves and that were done with Perfect circle parts, so for the car being raced someone knew what they were doing internally.
Originally I was just gonna have the motor rebuilt but as good as it ran I figured for 4,000 I will wait, glad I did...... This thing is now a cruiser and show car track days are over.
More pics to follow...
 

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was wondering about blasting engine, i am still having "sand through the hourglass" moments every time i jack my car up from a different angle after blasting the undercarriage and frame. little mounds of sand all over the floor underneath, and thats after air hosing and power washing several times cant imagine getting it near an engine. good to hear it is in fresh shape, should be good for another 40K, and you can spend your change elsewhere on the car. got lucky with my block and pistons and just had a cross hatch put on before rebuild saved me a ton in machining, was in GTO clubs PRES. show car before he decided to go back to #'s match, babied and low miles. Looking good Judge your avatar always catches my eye, like the silver on the classics.
 

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If you haven't already, make sure you pull all the oil passage plugs (two in the front of the block, three in the back (a screw in plug is underneath the plug on the distributor side) and wash out/blow out/brush out.

If you have (or can borrow) a dial indicator with a magnetic base and a degree wheel, you can "measure" the cam with it, the timing chain, and two lifters installed to find out what you've got. If it's a Pontiac cam, it'll have a single character code stamped on the end that can be looked up.

If you want to be really meticulous on your build you'll need that equipement to degree the cam anyway.

Bear
 
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