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64-67 Expert
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35 years ago I had a friend with a '65 ragtop who ran that front bar with the poly bushings. The tubular A arms were not available yet. He ended up tearing the link pins out of the lower control arms. Tore right through the sheet metal. It was stiff as hell but handled like it was on rails. IIRC, he cracked the windshield road-racing the car. (convertible not as rigid as a hardtop or coupe)
 

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Cameo Ivory 1967
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4,209 Posts
35 years ago I had a friend with a '65 ragtop who ran that front bar with the poly bushings. The tubular A arms were not available yet. He ended up tearing the link pins out of the lower control arms. Tore right through the sheet metal. It was stiff as hell but handled like it was on rails. IIRC, he cracked the windshield road-racing the car. (convertible not as rigid as a hardtop or coupe)
Everyone is always so quick to overdo the sway bars. If the car isnt set up right, it makes it much worse, and does damage!
 

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Considering adding a rear sway bar to a numbers matching 67 GTO. Pros/Cons? Best part option? Ditto front disc brakes vs existing power drums. TIA for the input.
Did both of those conversions on my '66. Well worth it! The front disc conversion kit for the 14" wheels from Stainless Steel Brake is awesome. The only mod I had to do was slightly enlarging two holes in each of my oem spindles to 1/2" (from 7/16). I got the sway bar and rear lower control arms from UMI Performance.
 

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Considering adding a rear sway bar to a numbers matching 67 GTO. Pros/Cons? Best part option? Ditto front disc brakes vs existing power drums. TIA for the input.
I have a 64’ with no sway bars. It rolls like a 48’
Buick in the turns. My 68’ has heavy duty front and rear which stiffens the car up. It drives much nicer and that’s what cars are meant for.
Driving! Disc brakes are just another way to improve the driving experience. I have 4 wheel disc on the 68’. You could put the drum brakes in a box in the shelf. Good luck and happy motoring
 

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Just a note. I pulled an Olds "12-bolt" rear end from a 1969 Cutlass S a couple years back at my local Pull-a-Part. It still had the stock factory control arms and rear sway bar intact. Oddly, the lower control arms were not boxed and the sway bar was bolted to the control arms - unlike what we know is done with the GTO's, boxed lower control arms.
When I got my basket case 66 GTO CONVERT it had a 12 bolt out of a 442 in it, no swaybar but also had open control arms, I thought that was odd also. I ended up putting boxed control arms and sway bar on but only after I finished the car and drove it for a while, it really handled badly on the interstate and around extremely sharp corner. After installing those 2 parts it was night and day
 

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1966 hardtop yellow black top factory auto with a/c 4v
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18 Posts
i purchased front+rear shoes front+rear wheel cyls adjusters all spring kits hoses adjusting levers and bars all a.c. delco all new stuff from rock auto under 200.00 for my 66 with auto trans power brakes with every thing installed and adjusted they work as good if not better than the disc swap i did on my 72 elcamino
 
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