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How much would you pay for this Lemans? Do you think I could restore it for 20K?
https://austin.craigslist.org/ctd/6091526126.html


Restore or Resto-Mod? Restore it - No. Resto-Mod it, maybe if you do all your own mechanical, body, and glass work yourself. That is not 50,000, it's 150,000 miles on that one. I would want pics of the frame. The car is in very poor shape. No glass, Rotted floors & trunk, needs front & rear bumpers, needs all the lights front & rear, interior is shot and needs to be completely redone, the 350CI is not an ideal candidate to rebuild if it isn't junk from sitting or blown. Suspect you will want to convert the drum brakes to discs, rebuild the front & rear suspension. Did it say if it was a 2 speed or 3-speed automatic - and it will need rebuilding.

No title in itself would scare me away unless I got a money back guarantee that I could get it as the seller states and I would not give him full payment until I got the title in hand as part of the purchase deal. I would make some calls on that one and find out what it will actually take to get a title AND what your state requires in registering an older car.

Not worth $2400. I can see $1000-$1500 tops. You are basically buying a rolling shell. Has potential, but not as a restoration or GTO clone.
 

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I agree with PontiacJim here. There is simply way to much to do that you may want to consider starting with something futher along b/c trust me it will suck you dry of time & CASH!!! Guess it also really matter what your end game is for this build. Just my 2¢. Good luck in whatever your decide to do.
 

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man I would stay away from that one, I agree with PontiacJim. To restore this car you're looking at maybe $15k in parts, floor w/rockers $1k, trunk $600, set of bumpers $1K, glass maybe $1k, probably $3k in just the interior as it is missing the correct dash, seats, needs $600 door panels, prolly $3k in engine work, etc. etc. Just a set of finished 68-72 A body buckets will cost you around $500-$750 each with new foam and correct re-upholstering. And you haven't even paid for labor yet. Better off finding a complete car and spending a bit more to start out, but less in restoration costs, will save you $ and time. This car is a parts car in my book.

(Edit: looks like the car does have the correct 1968 dash, I was thinking it was a 69 car)
 

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If you plan to do circle track racing, this would be a great start as it's already stripped down mostly. Strip out remaining interior, beef up/rebuild suspension, add an engine, tranny, and rear end with rollbar and .....circle tracking, here you come.
 

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If you think it's 20 then it will be closer to 35-40.
I thought maybe a year to finish my GTO now it has been 3 to finally finish everything to the point it is ready to go on a trip rather than just around town.
The last thing to do was axle bearings so 100 bucks for the bearings but once dis assembled I found it needed axles so 100 bucks turned into 500 bucks.
What dat add up to?
Mo money
Mo money
Mo money
 

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and after all that time and $$ restoring the car what have left is a Lemans. You will never will get your money back out of a Lemans, they just don't command the price like a GTO.
 

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How much would you pay for this Lemans? Do you think I could restore it for 20K?
https://austin.craigslist.org/ctd/6091526126.html

Have bought MANY MANY parts & project A & F body's out of the Texas Hill Country, N Tx, West Texas, & NM.. What the OP has a Craigslist ad up for is what many of us longtime vendors/collectors recognize as a "scammer prepped" Field Car. There is next to no reason such a "Texas Region" car should have the front floor pans rotted out like that unless the body has been sitting outside high centered with the nose down...& that particular scenario did happened many many times. The flipper who is listing this 68 LeMans 2door hardtop for sale has simply taken a $300-500 terd field car & shot cheap black primer all over the body & the trim in an effort to make this terd look more presentable. Unfortunately, this is a very common ruse thats been going on since the Internet classified sales venues took off. Have also seen similar "deal"s where the rough terd has been shot with cheap single stage. Tape the windows & tape the window trim off, then shoot the entire body in a attempt to make the "project" just look on the Internet, like is a a faded solid car. Once the newbie buyer, halfway way across the country, takes delivery of the "project", he or his bodyman will immediately figure out how bad the actual body condition is. This type of "project" does nothing but sour the buyer on any project from the original musclecar era. DONT BUY FROM SUCH RIPOFF ARTISTS! As responsible used parts vendors, never sell any parts to such scammers.

Having bought multiple dozens of '68's & 69 A-body's from the TX region, & having pulled parts in states in over half the US, the first thing a potential '67-68-69 Pontiac A-body project car buyer should do is unbolt the rear stainless trim, bottom of the 1/4's. 99% of the time, even in TX, the 1/4 will be rusted through under the stainless trim, ESP the passenger side. A SpotRot guage or light magnet can also help spot previous quikee "repairs" AKA bondo spreading to the 1/4's. Roads are crowned & there is typically a slight trough on the outside of each lane. Passenger side tires thus typically sling up more water, as well as salt & sand mixtures that are used during the winter & thus passenger side 1/4's typically always rust out quicker than the drivers side. Front & rear window channel rust out is very common even in projects from the SW. Myself as well as two longtime TX vendor friends have even bought our share of GTO, 442, & Chevelle factory vinyl top cars out of the Texas Hill Country & E Texas where the cars had been parked under trees & suffered years of tree sap. As a result, one could climb in the car, look up through the roof and see sunlight coming through the rusted out roof.

PARTS VALUE...on the above pictured $2400 "deal"...
-a really really NICE pair of '68 Pontiac A-body 2 door hardtop doors,
-near perfect pair of '68-69 original fenders (repops are total junk),
-a '68 floor shift column CORE
- a decent clean unboxed '68 112" WB frame, lower arms, trans crossmember

...it's conceivable that those 6 parts could add up to $2400 or more. Many of us longtimers have quit giving away our straight rust free doors for a couple hundred $ a pop. Nice straight rust free or mild rust out straight '68-69 fenders have also been really tough find for the last 15 years. IMHO, all of the above parts would be much more suitable for use on a restoration candidate, whether a LeMans or GTO. Does that make the above mess worth $2400??? No, the problem is the odds of the sheet metal pieces being that clean, are next to ZERO, just been down too many country roads, bought too many of 'em.
 

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That one at least looks like a driver. Hard to tell from pix. Ya gotta go look.

It could very well be that car has all the issues the first one does. Floor rot, etc. You gotta check the frame, look under the carpets, and assume the bottom of the windshield and rear window are rotted. Listen to the engine run, carefully listen for noises, see how smooth it idles, etc. Price doesn't sound too bad for a runner, IMHO. Remember to negotiate!!

Good luck.
 

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Now that's a really cool starter candidate! I got mine (69 Lemans)for almost the same price but from northern WI and discovering rust in the floor pans otherwise good condition. As a Texas car I bet you'll be starting much better off than me. Seems like a smart buy to me and I love 68-69 lines the best. Was pretty easy to source a nicely built 455 for mine but all the engine options are out there. I'm def no pro like the others on this site but it looks cool to me.
 

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Ck out the quarter panels really closely, esp around the wheelwells. A magnet & Kleenex can be used to spot bondo. With a flashlight, shine it inside of the rear quarters & run your hand up the panel feeling for corner cutting "rigged" body work, lap joints, bondo worms. under the Catwalk (panel behind the rear window), its best to lay on your back in the trunk looking up with a flashlight. The riggers seldom ever correctly repair rusty rear window channels/catwalks, one usually spot stalagtites of bondo, Fiberglas mesh & resin. Frame wise, it's the sweep behind the passenger side front lower control arm, where this era of A-body, the frame can crack. Have seen it many times. Car needs to be put on a lift to typ spot such a crack. Interior.... being a southern car I'd expect heat stressed plastic interior pieces with a rough condition molded dash. Not particular, one can correctly install a molded plastic dash cap in a day. Desiring a really nice molded dash & an interior that looks like Day1 & holds up for many years, it typically gets very expensive. Good luck examining the '69, if you do pursue it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
How much should I offer if everything checks out? I need a 2nd vehicle. I'm torn between this or something newer. I'm going to use it as a daily driver. The guy sent me a video and some pic of the interior.
 

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How much should I offer if everything checks out? I need a 2nd vehicle. I'm torn between this or something newer. I'm going to use it as a daily driver. The guy sent me a video and some pic of the interior.
Well, as a daily driver, I don't think that would be practical unless you have ready access to any and all parts that are going to wear out or break on you, ie the car will be parked at times waiting on repairs/parts. If you can't do your own work, you may find it hard to locate a shop who understands the workings of things like "carburetors" and setting the distributor points, plus no OBDII to plug into to diagnose the problem when the engine acts up. Gas mileage won't be great.

Go for something newer that you can get parts for, shops can work on, and is good on gas - much wiser investment for a daily driver.
 
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