So did TA performance send you a cam card telling you it should be installed 4 degrees advanced or did they just figure you were a mind reader? Did you degree it when you installed it? S#%&s that we have to do somebody else's job. I used to work in a wood moulding company way back, and would have to stop the moulders if it was spitting it out more than 1/32 bigger that spec. Well I got my cam etc from spotts. Gonna drop in a rebuilt distributor replacing one that has 50 plus years on it. And new wires. cap and rotor with brass terminals, and a new coil and nos points. Also bought a dizzy spring kit, just in case. Runs pretty good but all the parts I am replacing are about 12/13 years old. Time for a upgrade. See what happens. RMTake a look at this link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWC-sl0id30
This is my buick 350 when I couldnt figure out why it was running so rough. After talking to the cam manufacturer he recommended I double check to make sure the cam was degreed properly. Easy to do, even with the heads on. Only need a dial indicator and I made a degree wheel out of cardboard and a printed degree wheel I glued to the cardboard. It was 100% good enough to give me consistent numbers.
Turns out the cam was ground 4 degrees retarted and installed straight up ( dot to dot) and that was my issue. Especially since the manufacturer says this cam is recommended to be installed 4 degrees advanced... i was 8 degrees away from where I should have been. In my case I did buy a 9 keyway sprocket, however, Ive been told that's not necessary. If you know what you're doing, you can simply advance the teeth on the chains, just have to double check your work when you're done to confirm you are where you need to be with your adjustment.
After this adjustment the idle smoothed right out. Still have some carb tuning to do, but boy did this make a night and day difference.
POI the cam was manufactured by TA performance