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Lars corrector goes right on top of the vacumn can, instructions included. They don’t vary much it will pull 10 degrees, sometimes I get one that pulls 8 or 12...you can leave it there, or just a slight bend on the vertices stem of the vac can, imperceptible really. Just take the vac can off and do it with a pliers gently.

that looks to work, but how much adjustment is needed we can’t tell yet. Baad will let us know!
 

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That's interesting. Baad indicated that MSDsaid their dizzy required modifications for the stop, so I'm anxious to get the parts all together. When does the 181 pull full vacuum? I had it saved, but we hit 9 pages... lol.
 

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So the B26 or VC 181 will start to pull timing at 5 to 7hg and will pull a full 8 degrees distributor ( which is 16 degrees at the crank) at 11 to 13hg.

Lars corrector will shorten the length of the pull and knock the timing back to 10 degrees, but it also drops that vacumn some as well, since it does not have to pull as far it reaches the full stop a bit lower on the vac.

as long as your idle vacumn is above that 11 to 13hg you are good. Even lower really as the corrector will drop that to maybe 9 or 10hg. The way to tell is disconnect vac and plug read base timing. Then reconnect to full vac and read idle timing, should increase by 10 degrees.
 

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Im excited to get it all installed. Jersey weather was mid 90's and pure humidity, all weekend long. I did several car shows, cruises, and explorations, totaling at least 100 miles, each day, in the heat of the day.

  • Exhaust crossover not blocked.
  • Cold Case aluminum, two core radiator.
  • Flow Cooler iron pump (old style).
  • Drilled t stat.
  • No radiator reservoir.
  • No inner fender debris flaps.
  • No radiator seals.
  • No fuel return.
The car between 160 and 180 all day, climbing to 200 when sitting. After sitting or low speed cruising, full throttle use just caused it to bog and sputter, but, it cleared up if you stayed in it, which leads me to believe that it's hot fuel.

In any event, I have room for improvement now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
I have the same dizzy and I ordered mine from Lars. It hasnt come yet, but I'm curious as to why MSD says it's a pain.

I sure can see that setting theirs would suck... Itll have to be disassembled, "ball parked", reassembled, tested, adjusted, reassembled, disassembled, loctited. I would have plenty of beer and patience.
Lars said installing there stop on an MSD involed some work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Also if this works I'll have a B26 for sale cheap...Rock auto wants 4.50 to send it back, the thing was only 20.00...maybe I'll use it as a Christmas tree ornament 😁
 

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Also if this works I'll have a B26 for sale cheap...Rock auto wants 4.50 to send it back, the thing was only 20.00...maybe I'll use it as a Christmas tree ornament 😁
Why didnt you put the B26 on yours? You kept the MSD adjustable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Because Lars wanted another 15.00 for their stop and he said it was a pain to install on my MSD can which is not adjustable I tried some allen wrenches up it's hole, so MSD sent me this stop for free and looks easy enough to install I hope so we'll see if it works and I'm going to report back to them. I had already ordered the B26 when I found out about the stop being difficult from Lars but I have it if I need it.
 

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Because Lars wanted another 15.00 for their stop and he said it was a pain to install on my MSD can which is not adjustable I tried some allen wrenches up it's hole, so MSD sent me this stop for free and looks easy enough to install I hope so we'll see if it works and I'm going to report back to them. I had already ordered the B26 when I found out about the stop being difficult from Lars but I have it if I need it.
Are you sure that yours isnt adjustable? Ive seen a few people think that, when they were just using the wrong wrench! There's no positive stop on the adjustable cans... The wrench passes through the adjustment screw (like a donut), so if you dont use a big enough wrench, it wont engage the adjuster.

I only mention this because I was fairly sure that Holley made "only" the adjustable type.

Man... You have to LOVE Holley... Under specs, they tell you everything that you would never need to know, and nothing that you do. So... yeah. I can tell you what color socks that the CEO wears, but not how many degrees the can pulls, or when.
143330
 

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I think you said that Henry said it was hard to do on MSD distributors. Well it is easier on stock ones, but not that hard on the MSD. You need to do it on the bench, but I do all of them on the bench.
Take off the cap and rotor, remove the roll pin on the lower gear, mark it so you put back on the same way with the shims in the correct place also.

Now slide the gear up a bit for access to the snap ring under the breaker plate, remove that.

Then gently pry the the breaker plate to get the vacumn advance rod free. I usually push down with a screwdriver on the rod pushing it thru the big square hole, you have to twist it a bit and pull it toward you as well. Just be gentle it will come out.

On some I have to trim the bottom plastic bushing that the VC rod goes thru so it all clears, just file on the plastic so it stick.

then use a vac pump on the nipple to pull the rod and install the screws thru the corrector and VAC.

press the plate down reinstall the snap ring, put the gear back and install the roll pin.

Most roll pins are not welded in, what Henry may mean is if it is that little weld, very small has to be ground off to knock the roll pin out.

Most distributors don’t welded or braised in roll pins on the lower gear. Most I see are just held in with a roll pin. MSD may be-doing it more now, not sure, but it is not a big deal.

Use the hand vacumn pump to advance the VAC for access to the screws that hold it on. And don’t forget to replace any ground wires that may have been on those screws.

Lars will have instructions with his corrector. Yes some can be done without removing the distributor from the engine. But I take em out and just Re drop em. Cause I put them on the Distributor Machines and with it on the bench you get it right easier.

The MSD stop will work I am sure, they should just build the cans with a reduced hole to pull no more than 10 degrees....more is not needed or desired.
 

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
Are you sure that yours isnt adjustable? Ive seen a few people think that, when they were just using the wrong wrench! There's no positive stop on the adjustable cans... The wrench passes through the adjustment screw (like a donut), so if you dont use a big enough wrench, it wont engage the adjuster.

I only mention this because I was fairly sure that Holley made "only" the adjustable type.

Man... You have to LOVE Holley... Under specs, they tell you everything that you would never need to know, and nothing that you do. So... yeah. I can tell you what color socks that the CEO wears, but not how many degrees the can pulls, or when.
View attachment 143330
Well I tried all kinds of sizes that would fit in the hole and kept turning them and nothing happened, MSD said it wasn't adjustable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
This is my point, your description of steps don't even fit on my computer screen without scrolling so I'm trying the one they sent me and hope for the best but appreciate all the help (y)
 

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Ha yes, sure understand, the end result is what matters. The MSD one looks like it will work. And you are running good now Thai will only make it better.
 

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I think you said that Henry said it was hard to do on MSD distributors. Well it is easier on stock ones, but not that hard on the MSD. You need to do it on the bench, but I do all of them on the bench.
Take off the cap and rotor, remove the roll pin on the lower gear, mark it so you put back on the same way with the shims in the correct place also.

Now slide the gear up a bit for access to the snap ring under the breaker plate, remove that.

Then gently pry the the breaker plate to get the vacumn advance rod free. I usually push down with a screwdriver on the rod pushing it thru the big square hole, you have to twist it a bit and pull it toward you as well. Just be gentle it will come out.

On some I have to trim the bottom plastic bushing that the VC rod goes thru so it all clears, just file on the plastic so it stick.

then use a vac pump on the nipple to pull the rod and install the screws thru the corrector and VAC.

press the plate down reinstall the snap ring, put the gear back and install the roll pin.

Most roll pins are not welded in, what Henry may mean is if it is that little weld, very small has to be ground off to knock the roll pin out.

Most distributors don’t welded or braised in roll pins on the lower gear. Most I see are just held in with a roll pin. MSD may be-doing it more now, not sure, but it is not a big deal.

Use the hand vacumn pump to advance the VAC for access to the screws that hold it on. And don’t forget to replace any ground wires that may have been on those screws.

Lars will have instructions with his corrector. Yes some can be done without removing the distributor from the engine. But I take em out and just Re drop em. Cause I put them on the Distributor Machines and with it on the bench you get it right easier.

The MSD stop will work I am sure, they should just build the cans with a reduced hole to pull no more than 10 degrees....more is not needed or desired.
Holy Cow! That's terrible! If that's what I need to do on my Summit dizzy, then I wont be doing it any time soon.
 

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I received the timing corrector from Lars yesterday, and sure enough, installation on an MSD is involved. If it's the right thing to do, then I'll do it, but it's definitely going to be on hold. I still have other issues and I'm not looking to take on such a big endeavor, until I cross off a few other items.

And... I havent swapped a dizzy in an out, without screwing it up, in 35 years!
 
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