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Had a guy come by and give me an estimate on media blasting my car and frame. $1400

Thats more than I can afford. So Im thinking I will sand it all down to the bare metal. Patch any rust areas that can be cut out and welded. Any that cant treat and cover with POR 15.

But my friend who knows a little bit about body work (more than I know) says that if I do not media blast it then in a few years I will be seeing rust bubbles and such again.


Any advice is greatly appreciated. Trying to deceide which direction to go with this right now.
 

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Ya can't beat a good media blasting! If you don't have experiance sanding, you will gouge surfaces and ruin body lines......if you can't afford the blast, wait till you can. My $.02 Eric
 

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I always appreciate your advice Eric.

I think I am gonna go ahead and have it done in about a month from now. Take me that long to get the rotisserie done and the car unassembled. The more I think about it the more I about how Im gonna always have that in the back of my head that I didnt do it.
 

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Hey,

I've used media blasting for my project because on previous bodywork experiences media blasting is the only way to fully kill rust.

On my current project, (link below) I've decided to use a 'selective' media blasting method. The car has a lot of long, flat and un-dented panels that media blasting would warp. So instead I use orange paint and paint all of the areas that I want media blasted. Then the guy that does my blasting only hits those areas. This will allow me to use a DA sander to strip the large flat surfaces and avoid warpage and still kill the rust.

Check out the trunk lid on page 3, it was pretty successful;
My Restoration Project

Are other ways wrong...nope, this is just my way.
 

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Media blasting is the prefered method, but if funds don't allow it sanding is fine and cheaper. I didn't strip my 70 to metal, and I'm doing my 66 now, and not stripping it either. It's nice to take it down to nothing and redo it all, but if the old bodywork isn't popping or doing anything ignorant, you can just leave it alone.
Remember, it's better to do it once and do it right, but cheaper to hope the old body work holds and maybe do it again later when you have more money and actually finish the project now and not let the body work hold you up from ever finishing.
It took my buddy 22 years to finish his 63 Chevy II because he couldn't do the body work and paint the firewall, and my other buddy spent 10 years doing a 55 Chevy. Both cars are sweet now, but they have over $30K in each of them.
 

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You should also think of the money you'll be putting into the car and what it's value is. Does it make sense to put in tremendous money that you may never see again, assuming it's not your "forever" car?
 

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Had a guy come by and give me an estimate on media blasting my car and frame. $1400

Thats more than I can afford. So Im thinking I will sand it all down to the bare metal. Patch any rust areas that can be cut out and welded. Any that cant treat and cover with POR 15.

But my friend who knows a little bit about body work (more than I know) says that if I do not media blast it then in a few years I will be seeing rust bubbles and such again.


Any advice is greatly appreciated. Trying to deceide which direction to go with this right now.
i would say no. it is just a lemans. if you are already concerned about money in the cleanup stage you may have problems finishing it if you blast it. blasting exposes all kinds of bodywork sins that are expensive to fix. if you just want a nice driver patch the rust spots paint it and enjoy.
 

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Jetstang brings up an interesting and very valid point: finishes that haven't failed in 20 -45 years are not likely to. Factory primer is the best there is...it's baked on, and if still doing it's job, I like to leave it alone. It's the "good stuff" with all the lead and toxins you need for a durable finish! I had a GTO stripped to bare, saw it in the raw, and it wasn't raw long. Everything was done right, and the car came out mint. Thing was, about 10 years later, some rust bubbles began to show in the paint. This was a rust free car....we're talking bubles on the tops of the fenders, hood, etc. My '65 was repainted 25 years ago over the factory finish and no rust. My '67 was painted 17 years ago over several finishes, but the car's never been stripped...just block sanded. Unless the car is in a super dry environment and treated immediately, it will flash rust. It may look perfect when done, but if you keep it for a long time, bad things can emerge. I am a BIG FAN of not stripping down to bare metal IF the car does not have rust issues and the old finish is solid. Being in California, this may very well not be a viable option for a lot of you folks.
 

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Jetstang brings up an interesting and very valid point: finishes that haven't failed in 20 -45 years are not likely to. Factory primer is the best there is...it's baked on, and if still doing it's job, I like to leave it alone. It's the "good stuff" with all the lead and toxins you need for a durable finish! I had a GTO stripped to bare, saw it in the raw, and it wasn't raw long. Everything was done right, and the car came out mint. Thing was, about 10 years later, some rust bubbles began to show in the paint. This was a rust free car....we're talking bubles on the tops of the fenders, hood, etc. My '65 was repainted 25 years ago over the factory finish and no rust. My '67 was painted 17 years ago over several finishes, but the car's never been stripped...just block sanded. Unless the car is in a super dry environment and treated immediately, it will flash rust. It may look perfect when done, but if you keep it for a long time, bad things can emerge. I am a BIG FAN of not stripping down to bare metal IF the car does not have rust issues and the old finish is solid. Being in California, this may very well not be a viable option for a lot of you folks.
i agree.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
DAMN YOU GUYS! LMAO.
Now you got me on the fence again. Guy at the paint store said since it has some enamel, laquer or what ever on it that this base coat clear coat might not bond properly. He said if I dont take it to the metal he wouldnt even sell me the paint because he didnt want it to mess up and then ppl find out I got paint from him and think it was his paint that screwed up.

The previous owner had it painted not to many years ago the paint is cool its the sanding and body work under it that sucks.

I plan on buying some nason orbit orange paint from oreillys i heard its good paint.
 

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DAMN YOU GUYS! LMAO.
Now you got me on the fence again. Guy at the paint store said since it has some enamel, laquer or what ever on it that this base coat clear coat might not bond properly. He said if I dont take it to the metal he wouldnt even sell me the paint because he didnt want it to mess up and then ppl find out I got paint from him and think it was his paint that screwed up.

The previous owner had it painted not to many years ago the paint is cool its the sanding and body work under it that sucks.

I plan on buying some nason orbit orange paint from oreillys i heard its good paint.
nason is good paint but i dont think you can get it at oreillys.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yeah they carry nason.
I might take the money I was gonna put into a media blast and find some quarter patches or complete quarters.

I cant find a patch for a 71 though.
 

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yeah they carry nason.
I might take the money I was gonna put into a media blast and find some quarter patches or complete quarters.

I cant find a patch for a 71 though.
http://www.rapidautoparts.com/index.cfm?
i just bought full quarters for a 70 from these guys. they were nice.skins and patches are available too.
i would get my front fender patches from py though because theirs have inner braces.
 

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i use a lot of nason paint. its made by dupont. i dont want to assume to much here but it sounds like you would be a lot better off putting in some patch panels, painting and enjoy. lots of people like to talk about "doing it right or not at all" but that is how so many people end up taking good cars apart down to the last nut and bolt then never finishing them. pop in some patch panels, paint it, and ride past all the snobs garages with their frame off restos in 20 year limbo. smile and wave as you go bye. :party:
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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They don't have rear lower quarter patches for a 70-72, just checked. They do have skins and panels though.
how different can they be. probably a different shape around the bumper. most rust near the wheel more than the rear. im sure you can find something or make something that will work. its just some sheet metal.
 

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i cut patch panels from old doors and fenders and such picked up from body shop scrap piles. not as cool as ordering on the interweb but gets the job done. lots of cars dont have websites to buy new parts. doesnt mean you cant fix them. dont buy a whole quarter and cut them off. waste off money.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
They don't have rear lower quarter patches for a 70-72, just checked. They do have skins and panels though.
Although their full floor pan with braces is about $300+ cheaper than everyone else, including goodmark, and its a goodmark part!!!!
:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i cut patch panels from old doors and fenders and such picked up from body shop scrap piles. not as cool as ordering on the interweb but gets the job done. lots of cars dont have websites to buy new parts. doesnt mean you cant fix them. dont buy a whole quarter and cut them off. waste off money.
Your right!
The drivers lower rear quarter just has 2 small rust holes. The passenger side is about 1/2 thick on the low area with bondo! Apparently huge dent they patched.
 
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