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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Still dealing with running hot here in SC. Looking for anyone that has success with electric cooling fans.
What brand and model number do you recommend?
 

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I used Americanvolt on my '65 wih a 461, they're cheap I know but so far so good. I have a 16" puller on one switch and two 13" pushers on another switch, but there are a lot of other things that can cause overheating, many threads here if you do a search 👍
 

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Have a friend in the GTO club that spent over $1,200 for a beautiful dual electric fan setup from BeCool with an aluminum shroud. He Is very happy that his temps stay in the 190-195 range with the AC on. Meanwhile there are several of us that simply followed all the guidelines for setting up the same as what originally came on AC cars and we stay in the 165-170 range with the AC running. Twice I kept him company waiting for the auto club to show up to tow him home. Once was a melted fuse holder and the second was a melted relay.

If I were to abandon the mechanical fan, I would choose the setup I had on two drag cars - a Mark VIII fan coupled with a variable speed controller that can vary fan speeds from 30% to 100%. The electric fan and electric water pump has advantages on a drag car such as allowing the fan to continue to run after the engine is off allowing the engine to completely cool between rounds.

Again, the electric fan introduces additional complexity on the street and introduces more areas of failure than the old mechanical system. An additional failure point would include the alternator. If my alternator goes out on a hot day I can shut off any power robbing accessories and drive for over an hour to get back home. If I'm running a large electric fan pulling 40 amps, I might have 15 minutes run time.
 

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Cameo Ivory 1967
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Have a friend in the GTO club that spent over $1,200 for a beautiful dual electric fan setup from BeCool with an aluminum shroud. He Is very happy that his temps stay in the 190-195 range with the AC on. Meanwhile there are several of us that simply followed all the guidelines for setting up the same as what originally came on AC cars and we stay in the 165-170 range with the AC running. Twice I kept him company waiting for the auto club to show up to tow him home. Once was a melted fuse holder and the second was a melted relay.

If I were to abandon the mechanical fan, I would choose the setup I had on two drag cars - a Mark VIII fan coupled with a variable speed controller that can vary fan speeds from 30% to 100%. The electric fan and electric water pump has advantages on a drag car such as allowing the fan to continue to run after the engine is off allowing the engine to completely cool between rounds.

Again, the electric fan introduces additional complexity on the street and introduces more areas of failure than the old mechanical system. An additional failure point would include the alternator. If my alternator goes out on a hot day I can shut off any power robbing accessories and drive for over an hour to get back home. If I'm running a large electric fan pulling 40 amps, I might have 15 minutes run time.
I agree.

OP, if you're looking for "trick" setup on an infrequent driver, then electric can add a nice touch. BUT if overheating is the issue, an electric fan is definitely not the cure. It's merely a bandaid... and not a good mesh one, either! One of those shitty plastic ones that doesnt stick well.

As @Baaad65 mentioned, there many threads about all of the requirements for a healthy cooling system, and as I ALWAYS mention, if everything in the system is right, then there are no problems.

I have a 17 (undersized) flex fan, no shroud, no water wetter, no radiator gaskets, and no inner fender flaps, and I run at 160, all day, in Jersey Shore temps, traffic, and humidity.

No doubt that I could replace my flex fan with an electric one, and (arguably) get the same results, but that's when adding an electric fan to an already working system.

If you put a flow cooler pump on your car, with properly clearanced plates, a be-cool or cold case radiator, and you give it a good acid bath with a thorough flush, you will run cool.

However... prior to any component replacement... I'd like to see you do a flow check and some cleaning and backwashing. Maybe bypass the heater core and see what the temps do.

How old is this engine? Have you verified the coolant flow?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thank you for the feedback guys…..\The car runs cool at 160 170 while driving normal. At a light or slow traffic it bumps up quickly to 200-210. I used the infrared temp gauge at the top and bottom of the radiator as suggested. Readings were the same as the gauge. Radiator is aluminum with in and out on the same side. I installed a new 160 degree thermostat. New hoses and Evans cooling fluid. Timing is spot on. Water pump is stock. New fan clutch. Stock fan. I’d like it to stay around 170 180 when in slower traffic.
 

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Cameo Ivory 1967
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thank you for the feedback guys…..\The car runs cool at 160 170 while driving normal. At a light or slow traffic it bumps up quickly to 200-210. I used the infrared temp gauge at the top and bottom of the radiator as suggested. Readings were the same as the gauge. Radiator is aluminum with in and out on the same side. I installed a new 160 degree thermostat. New hoses and Evans cooling fluid. Timing is spot on. Water pump is stock. New fan clutch. Stock fan. I’d like it to stay around 170 180 when in slower traffic.
Okay, so assuming that your radiator is a good one... is it? Be Cool and Cold Case are not just aluminum, they are engineered high quality parts. As the saying goes, you get what you pay for.

You can buy a $200, four core, aluminum radiator off Amazon, but it's not going to cool even half as well as a two core Cold Case.

However... assuming that you have a good one, then I would focus on your water pump. If you have a stamped impeller or poorly clearanced plates, it has to go!
 

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1971 GTO resto mod. Modified 428 HO, 4 sp (built by midwest muncie) Dana 60, 3.55 rear
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I agree with Army. If you run 160-170 while moving, then heat up when stopped or slow traffic, I'd look at your water pump and possibly your fan size/shape. The factory put muechanical fans on all their vehicles back in the day and they worked well.
 

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1968 GTO 400, TH400
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I agree with Army. If you run 160-170 while moving, then heat up when stopped or slow traffic, I'd look at your water pump and possibly your fan size/shape. The factory put muechanical fans on all their vehicles back in the day and they worked well.
X2 water pump and pulley sizes !
 

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Not to high jack the thread but I'm in the same boat sorta of as the OP, it's pretty good now but I'm not going to be in any parades with my car if it's over 75*. Timing is good but curved a little different than most with more initial but still 36* total 10* vacuum limiter, idle mixture good, large two core aluminum rad but not name brand with a 15*-20* difference top to bottom, 160* drilled stat, new Flowkooler pump, plates set up by Butler in 2014, slightly under driven pump pulley with a serpentine belt, a 16" 2600cfm puller fan and two 13" 2000cfm pusher fans, running distilled water with two bottles of Waterwetter and did a chemical flush this spring and a new heater core . My only flaw I can see is I'm running just a finger saving shroud which does nothing but look good and hide the puller fan. Some days I don't need any fan while moving but if it's 80* or above I'm ok until I'm stopped for a while then I've crept up to 200* with three fans running and I think it was only 80* out that time, I haven't had it out in 90* temps yet so we'll see when I get in traffic. Idk if having no shroud is the whole key or if there's something else?
 

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Cameo Ivory 1967
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Not to high jack the thread but I'm in the same boat sorta of as the OP, it's pretty good now but I'm not going to be in any parades with my car if it's over 75*. Timing is good but curved a little different than most with more initial but still 36* total 10* vacuum limiter, idle mixture good, large two core aluminum rad but not name brand with a 15*-20* difference top to bottom, 160* drilled stat, new Flowkooler pump, plates set up by Butler in 2014, slightly under driven pump pulley with a serpentine belt, a 16" 2600cfm puller fan and two 13" 2000cfm pusher fans, running distilled water with two bottles of Waterwetter and did a chemical flush this spring and a new heater core . My only flaw I can see is I'm running just a finger saving shroud which does nothing but look good and hide the puller fan. Some days I don't need any fan while moving but if it's 80* or above I'm ok until I'm stopped for a while then I've crept up to 200* with three fans running and I think it was only 80* out that time, I haven't had it out in 90* temps yet so we'll see when I get in traffic. Idk if having no shroud is the whole key or if there's something else?
It's a shame that you have underdrive pulleys. You sure don't need the few extra horse power, and it wouldve definitely improved cooling.

Why arent you bumping the initial base timing? That's what will help with being stopped. Im at almost 29 degrees with the vacuum can. Curious as to why youre being conservative... Running hotter than you need to is not good.
 

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thank you for the feedback guys…..\The car runs cool at 160 170 while driving normal. At a light or slow traffic it bumps up quickly to 200-210. I used the infrared temp gauge at the top and bottom of the radiator as suggested. Readings were the same as the gauge. Radiator is aluminum with in and out on the same side. I installed a new 160 degree thermostat. New hoses and Evans cooling fluid. Timing is spot on. Water pump is stock. New fan clutch. Stock fan. I’d like it to stay around 170 180 when in slower traffic.
maybe try a fan without the clutch. had a firebird that would heat up. i changed to a straight fan never had the problem again. but a new clutch on the fan should have fixed it. your stock fan should keep it cool.take a piece of paper put it in front of the radiator see if it pulls the paper toward the radiator. hope you get it fixed.
 

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It's a shame that you have underdrive pulleys. You sure don't need the few extra horse power, and it wouldve definitely improved cooling.

Why arent you bumping the initial base timing? That's what will help with being stopped. Im at almost 29 degrees with the vacuum can. Curious as to why youre being conservative... Running hotter than you need to is not good.
Sorry I meant slightly overdriven so faster and it's the only pulley available for that setup from CFV, I am advanced with 22* initial 14* bushing and 10* vac advance.
 

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Baaad65, we are close on specs so don't think your timing or compression can be part of the problem. My 462 with the 670 heads is 9.34:1 compression and timing is 14 initial, 38 total, and 12 degrees ported vacuum. Rear wheel horsepower is 451. Here's some areas that could be contributing to the low speed heat:

(Paragraphs removed since corrections were made below).

3. You didn't mention whether internal plates were hammered forward to tighten up the impeller/plate clearance. It's amazing how much coolant can bypass the impeller blades and just stay inside the pump.
 

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Cameo Ivory 1967
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maybe try a fan without the clutch. had a firebird that would heat up. i changed to a straight fan never had the problem again. but a new clutch on the fan should have fixed it. your stock fan should keep it cool.take a piece of paper put it in front of the radiator see if it pulls the paper toward the radiator. hope you get it fixed.
There will always be ways to improve any kind of system, but I hate to see a guy spend money on improvements, when the foundation is suspect. In his case, he has a parts house water pump, and they're notoriously crappy.
 

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Sorry I meant slightly overdriven so faster and it's the only pulley available for that setup from CFV, I am advanced with 22* initial 14* bushing and 10* vac advance.
If your fine at average speeds and just low rpm slow speed issues it sounds like you need to speed up your water and air flow, I had custom pulleys made from Motor Mission Radiators in Vegas to get the most low rpm water flow I could for a Bronco, but I'm sure any machine shop could do it

I have the CVF serpentine set up on my GTO and it rarely creeps over 195 in extreme heat, gonna be 106 here today and if i leave it idling for about 20 minutes it will start to creep up to that 195 range normal driving and cruise nights pretty well parked at 185
 
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