[BearGFR]

I run twin electrics behind a good aluminum radiator and a good water pump with a properly clearanced plate on my '69 with a "reasonably healthy" 461. Still, "I've been told" that -nothing- cools better than the good 7-blade factory fan, properly clearanced inside the correct shroud (1/2 in and 1/2 out) driven by a good clutch.

I'm running those electrics because back when I was building this thing I was interested in making all the power I could, but now that I've had them for close to 10 years, let me tell you: there's a WHOLE lot to be said for the advantages of keeping things simple. With a mechanical fan, you never have to worry about losing a fan motor, losing a relay, blowing a fuse, having to upgrade the alternator to pull the load, etc. Any one of those things can leave you stranded on the side of the road with electric fans.

Bear

 

[Baaad65]

With the Flowkooler you should be pretty close. I probably should put in a disclaimer while I'm at it that the Flowkooler impellers are usually pretty close out of the box, and the reason my cast iron pumps work good is that I take the time to hammer in the plate. If the cast iron was taken right out of the box I could see where it would come in a poor second to the expensive aluminum aftermarket pumps because of excessive plate clearance.

The bearing failing might not have anything to do with belt tension. Many years ago Cardone brought out their first new Pontiac water pump. I had three bearing failures in a row. Pump had a lifetime warranty but it was a pain to do the replacement and the last time the blades clipped the tubes and cost me a re-core of the desert cooler radiator. The Flowkooler might have been defective and it would have crashed with normal tension.

Measured the pump pulley and close as I can get the ruler it looks like 5 1/8- 5 1/4" so idk what the stock pulley is?

 

[Baaad65]

Thanks TominSC for letting me hop on, hopefully we both get things figured out 👍

 

[armyadarkness]

I run twin electrics behind a good aluminum radiator and a good water pump with a properly clearanced plate on my '69 with a "reasonably healthy" 461. Still, "I've been told" that -nothing- cools better than the good 7-blade factory fan, properly clearanced inside the correct shroud (1/2 in and 1/2 out) driven by a good clutch.

I'm running those electrics because back when I was building this thing I was interested in making all the power I could, but now that I've had them for close to 10 years, let me tell you: there's a WHOLE lot to be said for the advantages of keeping things simple. With a mechanical fan, you never have to worry about losing a fan motor, losing a relay, blowing a fuse, having to upgrade the alternator to pull the load, etc. Any one of those things can leave you stranded on the side of the road with electric fans.

Bear

This is a perfect example of what I was saying in the beging:

Nothing wrong with electric fans, if that's what you want, but don't expect them to solve cooling problems, resulting from inadequacy somewhere else in the system.

 

[WildTom65]

I went the same way your thinking, but going electric didn't cure my running hot issue. After ensuring that I had proper engine timing, a friend suggested to perform a vacuum test. What I found was that I had a intake manifold and also a tripower carb stud leak. My engine was running too lean as a result. A pro shop initially installed these items. I wound up redoing it myself with positive results.

 

[Droach6498]

thank you for the feedback guys…..\The car runs cool at 160 170 while driving normal. At a light or slow traffic it bumps up quickly to 200-210. I used the infrared temp gauge at the top and bottom of the radiator as suggested. Readings were the same as the gauge. Radiator is aluminum with in and out on the same side. I installed a new 160 degree thermostat. New hoses and Evans cooling fluid. Timing is spot on. Water pump is stock. New fan clutch. Stock fan. I’d like it to stay around 170 180 when in slower traffic.

Theres aguy on Utube who tests his 69 GTo with a valve between the head and heater core, very detailed, it runs cooler at 3/4 closed valve. Fast Monty on youtube. It shows you need to have your coolant in the radiator as long as possible

 

[Baaad65]

So what is the stock water pump pulley size, I have '65 car with a '72 motor, am I over driven slightly?