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does anyone know the torque specs for 69 gto upper and lower control arms i know it has to be setting on wheels but knot sure of torque ..thanks
 

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66 & 67 factory manual says 80 ft lbs on the nuts and 105 on the bolts....

I just put the torque wrench on the nut and get 80 ft lb......

Just did those....
 

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If using the factory type rubber bushings, you want to have your car at riding height, ie, on the ground. The rubber acts as a torsion bar once it is tightened and locked into position with the ride height placing the rubber bushing in its "neutral" position.

This is not the case with the poly bushings as these rotate on the center shaft or outer shell of the bushing and is why some say they squeak or are noisey - and why some have grease fittings to minimize this.
 

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thanks......... so if thats the case i can torque them while car is in the air,, i am using poly.........
 

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thanks......... so if thats the case i can torque them while car is in the air,, i am using poly.........
Yep, I think you are good. I am using a custom upper control arm having one end with the poly and it will be held in place when bolted down and then the outer shell will move/slide on the poly. It even came with some grease to apply to the poly. Here is some additional info that will help you - https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/poly-control-arm-bushings-how-do-they-work/33732/page1/

However, being mine are custom, I am adding grease fittings myself thinking I may be able to pump some grease in them from time to time IF they get squeaky as I have read about. Now some come with fittings and I suspect they may have some form of grooves internally to flow the grease around the bushing, so I am just winging it on my theory and might be gaining nothing, but since I am building them myself,.....what the heck, right?
 

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thanks.................. i called energy and was told in a year i would have to take them out and grease them up again.......if had to do over would have went back to rubber .............just saying ..........
 
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