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Discussion Starter #1
I recently pulled the trigger on a a full suspension overhaul for my 05 GTO. As soon as the weather warms a bit I will be installing Hotchkis swaybars, BC BR coilovers, and every bushing there is.

I've been digging through the forums for a while, and cannot find a comprehensive list of all the torque-to-yield bolts that should be replaced for this work. I know the subframe bushings are an item that is tty, and I saw one mention of replacing the differential to body bolts. Are there any others I'm missing?

Thanks in advance
 

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Those are the ones I remember. For the diff to frame I used regular hardened allen cap head screws. I thought I saw somewhere the front subframe bolts may be hard to get. It's a real joy getting the front sway bar in. If I had to do it again I would skip it and just do end links as other than weight I noticed no performance difference outside of flat out racing.
 

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Regarding TTY bolts and other "one-time use" nuts and bolts, I think I recall the following:

Control arm nuts x6 (2 for front, 4 for rear)
Front radius rod nut x2
Rear radius rod nut x2
Front cradle bolts (2 frontward and 2 rearward)
Strut mount nut x2
Strut to knuckle bolts/nuts (4 pairs)

Rear subframe bolts x2
Rear diff bolts x4
Rear lower shock bolts x2

I also believe there is a pair of bolts that hold the diff mount casing to the diff housing that are supposed to be one-time use. That's just the suspension stuff. There's some brake bolts that should be replaced as well.
 

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I reused the nuts with Locktite. Been reinstalled for 6 years with no issues. The bolts I was a little more cautious on as they stretch when tightened. I did use new rear shock bolts when I replaced the shocks but have subsequently had them off and back on a half dozen times.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ouch

Wow, that got expensive fast....

I didn't bother with the control arm, front or rear radius rod, or strut mount nuts.

I did however just order a set of cradle bolts (front and rear), and diff mount bolts. They cost me about $90 for the bunch.

As for the strut to knuckle bolt, I found this thread... (Anyone replace strut bolts with non-TTY stuff. - LS1GTO.com Forums) and followed the recommendations for a set of steering kuckle bolts that would not be TTY (Grade 10.9 with locking nuts and some lock washers for the bolt end side).

I picked up some caliper to knuckle bolts while I was at it for a total of $60.

$150 in just bolts.... I never thought I'd see the day I shelled out for that...

Thanks for the help, let me know if you think there are any issues here I'm missing
 

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I'd do the inner and outer rear control arm bushings while you drop each side of the rear subframe. You need to drop to get the outers. Do it once. Makes a real difference in control arm squiggle and rear camber.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the heads up on the outers, I probably would have torqued in the new subframe bushings and then realized i had to drop it to get the outers.

I've spent a few weeks doing research, and I'm pretty sure I've got every bushing covered. My plan is to replace every bit of suspension I can and just be done with it so I can move on to driveline/engine upgrades.

one last question... red locktite or blue?
 

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Blue loctite for the most part. Sometimes the bushing may come with the nuts required (sometimes, as in the case of the strut mounts/front radius rod nuts). YMMV. Better to find a non-TTY equivilent but some are impossible to find. I replaced virtually every nut and bolt suggested although I kept the originals just in case and wouldn't hesitate them in a pinch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, I was really hoping to do the install this weekend once my parts arrive, but I'm having a hell of a time finding all the TTY bolts. Especially without a huge lead time.

I'm tempted to just re-use them honestly. Why would GM do this to us? :banghead:
 
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