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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a question need some opinions.


Need to replace my turbo 350 trans in the 65 Fried it after 2 burnouts it is bolted up behind a 455 around 600 HP rear is 373 gears, I just finished rebuilding motor naturally aspirated no electronics. I have no problem going with a stand-alone unit to control trans if need be.
I could get my hands on a Monster trans 2800 stall totally built out for a great price brand new never saw a car. Rated at 750 hp and dyno tested.

Or is going with an over drive unit the better call driving will mostly be around town no long trips. However, I plan on driving to shows that could be far away. Your guys and gals’ opinions will be appreciated.



Thanks Ed
 

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In todays age, an overdrive only makes sense.

Hope the rear end is not the original 10-Bolt? That'll be the next thing to break.
 

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I just recently put a 200-4R behind the 461 in my '70. I know there are 200-4R haters out there, but they can be built to take abuse and there are plenty of people out there that race with them. That said, I bought a built one and use it for street only and it has been fantastic so far and the longer 1st gear than the 700R4 makes it slightly more usable behind all that torque... slightly. I suggest doing your own research before listening to the "200-4R Is ThE WoRsT tRaNsMiSsIoN" crowd.

That said, the OD is fantastic. Makes the car so much more pleasurable to drive on the highway and a lot quieter.
 

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For 3 - 4 THOUSAND DOLLARS you sure can build a 200 to last for a little while.

There is no such thing as a "200 hater". There are those that physically know trannys and those that do something because the other guy did.
 

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I'm going to guess Atarchus misunderstood my post as to what side of the 200 fence I'm on. I'm on the, 200R4's R4 the scrap heap.

GM killed off the 200R4 early in life due to mounting warranty issues among many other reasons. You will never find one used for any heavy duty, severe duty, high torque or performance application. The only thing people hang their 200R4 hat on is the Buick Grand National. A car that at best had 276 horse (GNX) and none of it came at the hit of the throttle due to it being turbocharged and had turbo-lag. Tell me how many trucks and/or Corvettes came with a 200R4? Z E R O

That is why it takes 3 - 4 THOUSAND DOLLARS to make one last for a few years unless you have under 400 horse.
 

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I installed a 200R4 in 2007 and haven't had ANY issues with it. Bought from Bowtie Overdrives. The biggest headache I had was the initial set-up.
Absolutely love it when cruising and hear / feel it going into 4th.
When I installed it Mikes Tri-powers was reworking the Tri-power and worked with Bowtie and me to get it set-up correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I picked up a turbo 400 Monster trans totally worked out with Manuel valve body 2800 stall. It was still in the crate from Monster. The guy never put in the car.
I couldn’t pass it up for a thousand dollars. I figure I’ll run it for a while with the automatic. I just can’t get over the lure of a stick. My first 65 had a stick and I loved it.
Unless this setup blows me away and I get sold on the automatic then for sure I will swap it out for one with overdrive. Good point was brought up about the overdrive.Thank you

I have another question if someone could give me advice it would be much appreciated. So, I have the original console for the 65 in great shape and I have two his and her gate shifters. In very good shape. will the his and her shifter sit correct in that Console after every thing is trimmed away from the original shifter position?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
In todays age, an overdrive only makes sense.

Hope the rear end is not the original 10-Bolt? That'll be the next thing to break.
Yes it is the 10 Bolt Jim I am on the look out for a Ford 9 inch rear to build out and take its place as soon as it craps out. Fords are way easier to set up put the carrier on the bench and have at it .Want to change gears swap the carrier out and your off to the races.
 

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I have a Coan TH350 with a shift kit and a dual gate shifter. Had Performance Torque Converter PTC, in Muscle Shoals, Alabama put in a ratchet Diode, they say will take 1000 ft lbs of torque. They use beefed up TH350’s on drag cars.

Behind that I have a Gearvendors overdrive. It splits every gear, so you have six forward gears.

1st, 1st over, 2nd, 2nd over 3rd, 3rd over. With the dual gate shifter and the gear vendors you can choose the auto or manual mode in Gearvendors and on the trans as well. Gearvendors has a button installed on your shift knob so you can hit the button say when you are in second and go to second over which is 1.13 gear. The Gearvendors will take 1200 or more ft lbs they can go behind a TH400 as well.

Whatever you pick get overdrive, high RPM’s at cruise for sustained periods builds heat and wear and is not relaxing. Have the choice to drive or shift.
 

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Yes it is the 10 Bolt Jim I am on the look out for a Ford 9 inch rear to build out and take its place as soon as it craps out. Fords are way easier to set up put the carrier on the bench and have at it .Want to change gears swap the carrier out and your off to the races.
Smart move. Make sure to get a Nodular case be it factory or aftermarket. If you go factory, don't be sold a bill of goods as not all 4 rib cases are Nodular. If the case is a 4 rib and has a WAR or WOR part number it is a Pig Iron case which are weaker than a stock, run of the mill, standard 3 rib case.
 

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Yes it is the 10 Bolt Jim I am on the look out for a Ford 9 inch rear to build out and take its place as soon as it craps out. Fords are way easier to set up put the carrier on the bench and have at it .Want to change gears swap the carrier out and your off to the races.
I put a 9" aftermarket unit under my '68 and went with the 11" drum set-up. I used the Quick-Performance axle all set-up for installation in an A-body and added a couple upgrades, then spec'd out the pieces I wanted to use to assemble it. I let a local guy set up the gears. I may have done it cheaper if I had simply bought a complete ready to install aftermarket rear, but I opted to buy part at a time as budget allowed. The rear should hold up to around 600HP - which is over kill, but I'll never need to buy another. As I recall, it wound up around $2,800 to build.

You will not be able to use the factory rear sway bar due to the size of the center section. I believe they do sell one that will fit with the 9", or you can go with an aftermarket set-up. I created/fabricated my own set-up that should hopefully work.

01  Ford 9 inch housing.JPG
02   Ford 9 inch.JPG
03  Ford 9 inch set-up.JPG
07 Rear sway bar.JPG
 

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I put a 9" aftermarket unit under my '68 and went with the 11" drum set-up. I used the Quick-Performance axle all set-up for installation in an A-body and added a couple upgrades, then spec'd out the pieces I wanted to use to assemble it. I let a local guy set up the gears. I may have done it cheaper if I had simply bought a complete ready to install aftermarket rear, but I opted to buy part at a time as budget allowed. The rear should hold up to around 600HP - which is over kill, but I'll never need to buy another. As I recall, it wound up around $2,800 to build.

You will not be able to use the factory rear sway bar due to the size of the center section. I believe they do sell one that will fit with the 9", or you can go with an aftermarket set-up. I created/fabricated my own set-up that should hopefully work.
You would have saved money if you would have just installed Ford Explorer rear disc brakes from a junkyard.

Why do you think it's only good for 600 horse? Did you only go with 28 spline axles?
 
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