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I am slowly putting my car back together. Five years ago I purchased some parts for the project. Edelbrock Elite valve covers were in the mix. After installing them, I tried to install my factory a/c compressor. I found that the valve cover is 11/16" too tall, so my a/c bracket that mounts from the intake to the back of the compressor does not reach, and the compressor does not adjust in far enough to install the belt. Has anyone had a similar problem like thiis and if so how did you remedy the situation. I don't want to cut and weld the original bracket.

Thanks for any help in advance,
66
 

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same problem

I have the same problem but the new engine I am installing has Stud Girdle so for me to get AC I most likely will have to go with a March Performance Pulley Kit. :nonod:
 

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What Alky said. Install the right valve covers.

Guys that put the stud girdle can't use the stock covers. BUT, I wonder if you could use the valve cover spacers under the stock covers to make it work?

They are not inexpensive, but here are a few in different heights. One might actually work with the application of factory covers. MediceMfg ...Valve Cover Spacers - Pontiac

And of course, Butler has valve covers and a better price on their spacers. Butler Performance - Pontiac Valve Covers

:thumbsup:
 

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I have the tall valve cover from Butler all ready. I will try to get to the AC after I get the right headers. I order the Doug d port headers they should be here by Wednesday.
 

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Here is another option...take out the AC and all that firewall mess, compressor as well. Put in the AC delete box and gain all that room....

Now I can fix AC, I have an AC recycle machine and all the tools to do it...

But I like to ride with the windows down and the music up...if you set up your ac vents with a good clear blower..those things really blow the air..and with the vent Windows pretty good.....now I know everyone says their climate is the hottest...

Understand, bug that compressor was for R-12.., and you will likely convert it to 134...not original either, and not as efficient a system designed for 134...

I never thought those old AC system were that great, compressor runs constantly, cooling is up to modern standards, and I like this car to be different than my modern cars, not all coupes up in the glass bubble...

So if you tough it out on some hot days, mostly you won't miss it!.....

And the AC car then gives you the benefits of the 4 core radiator and the return fuel line and a good air vent system....and you won't have that compressor load..or all the freon leaks that every system gets eventually...

There are different ways to do it:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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Here is another option...take out the AC and all that firewall mess, compressor as well. Put in the AC delete box and gain all that room....

Now I can fix AC, I have an AC recycle machine and all the tools to do it...

But I like to ride with the windows down and the music up...if you set up your ac vents with a good clear blower..those things really blow the air..and with the vent Windows pretty good.....now I know everyone says their climate is the hottest...

Understand, bug that compressor was for R-12.., and you will likely convert it to 134...not original either, and not as efficient a system designed for 134...

I never thought those old AC system were that great, compressor runs constantly, cooling is up to modern standards, and I like this car to be different than my modern cars, not all coupes up in the glass bubble...

So if you tough it out on some hot days, mostly you won't miss it!.....

And the AC car then gives you the benefits of the 4 core radiator and the return fuel line and a good air vent system....and you won't have that compressor load..or all the freon leaks that every system gets eventually...

There are different ways to do it:thumbsup::thumbsup:
That is a tempting thought for my '68 GTO w/factory air. With low freon it's not much use and the changeover to 134 takes money away from the GTO's primary purpose-----performance. One reason I like my '68 is she still has the vent windows in the doors....when I was young that was the "factory A/C" on most cars. True, in SC having air is really nice but this is not my daily driver (which does require A/C) so why be a wimp on weekend cruising. Put the windows down and hear those pipes and Q-jet secondaries! (No more burned hands getting out spark plugs from behind that damn compressor.) Thanks, LeMans guy!.........(where do I find a good A/C delete box?)
 

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A quick ebay search found some that should work:

Heater Box 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 Chevelle Cutlass Skylark LeMans GTO Tempest | eBay

Chevelle Camaro GTO Firebird 442 Skylark Impala Firewall Heater Box Fan | eBay

I paid a bit over $100 for one of these for an 84 Camaro when I deleted the AC. A bit of sanding and some paint and either of these would work.

or if you don't need the heater at all something like this:

Umi Performance 1964 1972 GM A Body Heater Box Delete Panel Black Powdercoat | eBay
 

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68...NPD i think is where I got that AC delete box. Yes it really opens up the engine bay. Pull out the evaporator under the fender all that blower the lines. the compressor & the dryer up front. It is like being born again back to the 60's

I never miss it,..windows down and music up, vents windows at full tilt...

Now you need a new blower fan, because it goes up under the fender, and it is a good time to change your heater core if you have not already done it. Nice clear heater core and vents let the air blow throughthat vent system at speed really well, don't even need the blower switch on.

Get some GM strip caulk NPD has that as you will need it to seal up the final delete box. It looks great flat and gone, lots of room to access plugs even to get to coil and distributor. way nicer.

I meant to say those old AC systems were not up to modern cooling standards...in this case less can be more. But ey some guys want it and they make it work or go with vintage air etc.

Like you say it is not a daily driver, you can pick your times. But other than just the hottest summer days in the sun, daytime...I don't even notice it.

Take out the inne fender when you get into it and then you can get the blower in easy and work from the wheel well with tire out. seal it all up good, that old evaporator is just a big old hunk you can remove as well.

it sure puts the room back and the beauty of simplicity....and you won't have to find and search for or pay someone to find and search for those freon leaks! they are coming......:lol::lol::lol:
 

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Hate that we got off track with sixtysix's thread but but I appreciate Lemans guy and Jared's advice on A/C delete. This would certainly solve sixtysix's valve cover problems----he could run anything he wanted as there would be room for the M/C on the left.
 

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Jared could keep the valve covers and also add a cooler and a picnic basket in the space he saves, with no drain on the engine from that big compressor,...which runs constantly by the way,...he can enjoy the ride...

His car will run cool because remember that AC condenser dumps all the heat from the cabin out in front of the radiator.....that is why they took great pains to make it run cooler, 7 blade fan, fan shroud, fuel return line, 4 core radiator, idle compensator in carb.....but you get to keep all the cooling tools and drop the condenser heat.....

I have a 160 degree thermostat and sometimes it won't even reach 160 as the coolant circulating through the heater core from the bypass hose ( a mini radiator really) is enough to keep it cool!

By the way if you do this another tip is to splice in a shut off line to the heater core. All of these cars ran hot engine coolant through the heater core all the time! AC controls did not change that...just changed the blend doors.

I turn off the coolant to heater core with a lever I put under the hood and route it directly back to engine in summer...that way my heater core has no hot coolant and the best airflow through the outside vent to the cabin is actually through the core....so you get a good airflow...but not a heated airflow:banghead:
 

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FWIW, I'm running stock valve covers with roller rockers and stud girdles (and all manner of other silliness) on my car. I did have to use spacers, the tallest ones I could find. I think they're 1". I painted them engine color though and most folks don't even notice them.

Bear
 

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LeMans guy, Did you just install a shutoff on the supply line, or did you install a bypass to the return line...keeping the coolant running out of and into those two hoses?

Never mind. I just re-read your last paragraph. Looks like you installed a bypass so the loop stays active, just shortened to before the heater core. Great idea!
 

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I have the tall valve cover from Butler all ready. I will try to get to the AC after I get the right headers. I order the Doug d port headers they should be here by Wednesday.
You can probably get/make two spacers and longer bolts to raise the AC bracket on the intake to clear your covers.
 

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do you need the taller valve cover for rocker clearance? i love the look of the stock valve covers especially on a performance engine, you might try a thicker gasket under the stock cover to give a little more rocker clearance but still clear the bracket, on the outside good luck
 

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RR... Right I...I actually used three shutoff valves...you could do it differnt ways.... yes I have a bypass to engine with a shut off valve and a shutoff in the hose to the heater core and one after.....

so I just flipped them today as we will be in the 80's this week in Tennessee.....but it completely isolates the heater core, and runs coolant back to the engine with the bypass hose...works great real easy.....
 

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you can see the hose cutoff here, and the AC delete. Now I know it is not original, but it can be made original without any modification to the car by taking the hoses off and putting back the original hoses.

In the meantime you can enjoy the cooler vent air. I don't like to modify things real heavy, but anything that that can be reversed does not destroy the car and can make a more enjoyable cruise!
 

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