[Johnhw]

I have a 65 tri power four speed w/AC. It runs a consistent 175-180 except in town w/AC on. I'm considering a Flowkooler 8 bolt water pump and wondered if anyone out there has experience with them and if so do you clearance the divider plates like with the stock pumps? I've already upgraded to a 160 high flow thermostat, aluminum radiator and clearanced my current my stock cast pump impeller and plate.

 

[MidnightAuto]

I dropped in a 8 bolt flow kooler. The clearance is better than stock, but could be tightened further. I did. I wrote about in another post. Search on my handle. Two clearances to solve for. Motor run engine ice cold now. I did drop in a cold case radiator too...

 

[Johnhw]

Thanks for the response Midnight. I'm going to order the Flowkooler today. I'm tired of having to turn the a/c off in town with the top up. I don't know if a Cold-case would have cooled better but my goat is bone stock and I want to keep it looking that way. I used the US Radiator 1" two tube that has the original stamped tanks and it made a huge difference. A little black paint and it looks factory.

 

[MidnightAuto]

One warning- on re-assembly I did not notice my divider plate was not aligned at the bottom of the pump. I tightened those bottom bolts and cracked the flow kooler. The pump actuallly has a warning in the box about overtightening and cracking...in retrospect now I understand why. So the second flowkooler went in fine....

 

[geeteeohguy]

Back in the day, these cars when new would run 215-220 all day long on hot days with the AC on. Harms absolutely nothing, unless your car is more prone to detonation at higher temps. The sweet spot for these engines to run at to burn off all the condensation in the crankcase and to be thermally efficient is about 190-195 degrees. You didn't state if your car was overheating or not....if it runs at over 230 and pukes coolant when you shut it down, that is overheating. If it simply runs 210-220 with the AC on when it is hot outside, that is a non-problem.