WEATHERSTRIPPING!

1266 Views 38 Replies 13 Participants Last post by Sick467, 2 mo ago

armyadarkness

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

As the title says, I need to replace all of my weatherstripping. It's really bad!

I searched "Best Weatherstripping" and not much came up.

What's best? Who sells it? How long does it take to do? How hard is it to do? Any special tools needed?

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armyadarkness

Discussion Starter · #2 · 2 mo ago

And while Im at it... What about floor insulation/ sound deadener?

Dynomat?

Last car I did was a 73 Ventura, I just scrapped the factory tar off, and applied 4 coats of Rustoleum, then used the jute pad with new carpet... but the GTO gets hot inside, so I may wish to step it up.

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Jim K

· #3 · 2 mo ago

I know Ames has a good selection of weather stripping for just about every year model. (page 188 of their latest catalogue) for sound deadner, I couldn't say..

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67ventwindow

· #4 · 2 mo ago

Pour quoi? I thought you installed radiant floor heating? IE the double exhaust system. Its not too late to go Zoomie headers out the hood then all that heat will dissipate. Or just singe your eye brows!

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armyadarkness

Discussion Starter · #5 · 2 mo ago

67ventwindow said:
Pour quoi? I thought you installed radiant floor heating? IE the double exhaust system. Its not too late to go Zoomie headers out the hood then all that heat will dissipate. Or just singe your eye brows!

I would think my exhaust would help cool it. All I know is that you can fry an egg on my seat belt bolt

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armyadarkness

Discussion Starter · #6 · 2 mo ago

Sharing Tableware Gesture Tie Suit

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67ventwindow

· #7 · 2 mo ago

Here is what I am interested in trying. Heat sheild like what is on modern cars. Unlike most the I dont care what it looks like its function is what I am interested in. My exhaust will be the bare minimum cost.

I am not saying I am not going to use the conventional sound deadener and insulation.

exhaust heat shield kit, hot exhaust, cool car, heat protection, exhaust pipe protection, embossed

Car Builders Easy Fit Exhaust Heat Shields are constructed from soft temper aluminium. They are embossed and pressed with a ceramic core to create the most effective means of blocking radiant heat.

www.carbuilders.com.au

www.carbuilders.com.au

Reactions: 3

ylwgto

· #8 · 2 mo ago

armyadarkness said:
As the title says, I need to replace all of my weatherstripping. It's really bad!

I searched "Best Weatherstripping" and not much came up.

What's best? Who sells it? How long does it take to do? How hard is it to do? Any special tools needed?

I did all mine during the pandemic with stuff ordered from OPGI. Prep is easy if your old stuff comes off clean (my old stuff took paint with it (!), but luckily it was just recovered by the new stuff (made for less prep work!).

The doors are easy, they have locating tabs built into the stripping (I still used weatherstripping adhesive). You just start at the vent windows and work your way around.

The trunk is also easy since there is stamped metal ridge to follow/glue to.

The window felts are a pain in the a$$, but worth doing. The most critical one, in my opinion, is the seal that goes along the upper roof rail (that the windows seal to). This one was tougher since the rear of the seal has to extend beyond the rear window into the side panel (gotta trim it to the correct length) and there are trim support hooks that you have to get the rubber to fit into. Also, no locating tabs, just adhesive. Mine were completely brittle from age and letting tons of air and noise in while driving. The new ones made the car sooo much quieter.

Never done the interior mat, but I was tempted to use Dynamat X-Mat on someone elses recommendation. Still on my to-do list.

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O52

· #9 · 2 mo ago

Metro seals. Soft, pliable.
The vent window seals were the most difficult to do. Everything else was fairly easy.
I used NOS for the trunk. Got a great deal on that one.

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geeteeohguy

· #10 · 2 mo ago

O52 said:
Metro seals. Soft, pliable.
The vent window seals were the most difficult to do. Everything else was fairly easy.
I used NOS for the trunk. Got a great deal on that one.

THIS^^^. I've used them and they were an exact fit. Not two times thicker than OEM with the BS line that 'they'll compress and seat eventually." Metro, in my experience, are the way to go. As for Dyna-Mat, IMO, it is grossly over-priced. We did a '67 GTO hardtop 12 years ago with Frost King from Lowes for a total of $40. (Dyna-Mat at that time was about $800). We did the roof, the floors, the doors, and the quarters. Even with an HO engine and 3.55 gears, when we finished the car, it was the tightest and quietest GTO I've ever ridden in. And the interior was nice and cool as well. Keep in mind this car is in an area that sees over 100 degrees daily for 60-100 days a year, and in the 12 years since the install, the Frost King has stayed put. It comes in different widths and rolls, and applies with a tire patch roller and roller like Dyna-Mat.

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ylwgto

· #11 · 2 mo ago

O52 said:
Metro seals. Soft, pliable.
The vent window seals were the most difficult to do. Everything else was fairly easy.
I used NOS for the trunk. Got a great deal on that one.

Yep, Metro Moulded is the brand I used also.

Reactions: 2

lust4speed

· #12 · 2 mo ago

OK, I haven't any experience with Metro, but can comment on two others. First, Soft Seal is anything but. We did a friends '67 GTO and two years later you still have to wind up and really slam the doors for them to close. The Soft Seal foam is hard and a little larger than stock. I went with Steel Rubber Products on my '67 GTO and am totally happy with the installation and how the doors seal. I replaced the door seals and the roof rail seal and couldn't ask for a better fit. OPGI carried Steel and probably still does, but found out that I could order directly from the Steel website cheaper. Latest Steel purchase was for the '65 Catalina Safari wagon and again the fit was perfect.

Reactions: 2

armyadarkness

Discussion Starter · #13 · 2 mo ago

geeteeohguy said:
THIS^^^. I've used them and they were an exact fit. Not two times thicker than OEM with the BS line that 'they'll compress and seat eventually." Metro, in my experience, are the way to go. As for Dyna-Mat, IMO, it is grossly over-priced. We did a '67 GTO hardtop 12 years ago with Frost King from Lowes for a total of $40. (Dyna-Mat at that time was about $800). We did the roof, the floors, the doors, and the quarters. Even with an HO engine and 3.55 gears, when we finished the car, it was the tightest and quietest GTO I've ever ridden in. And the interior was nice and cool as well. Keep in mind this car is in an area that sees over 100 degrees daily for 60-100 days a year, and in the 12 years since the install, the Frost King has stayed put. It comes in different widths and rolls, and applies with a tire patch roller and roller like Dyna-Mat.

Im definitely not one to pay for names. If you can find a link or picture to the frost king product, please post it.

Reactions: 1

armyadarkness

Discussion Starter · #14 · 2 mo ago

Thanks everyone! My pass vent window doesnt stay open, so I have to open the door up anyway. I might as well get a few of these things resolved while Im in there. Vent window seals look like a magical mystery to me.

Reactions: 1

Baaad65

· #15 · 2 mo ago

armyadarkness said:
Thanks everyone! My pass vent window doesnt stay open, so I have to open the door up anyway. I might as well get a few of these things resolved while Im in there. Vent window seals look like a magical mystery to me.

I did them and they weren't that bad, after I got the right seals...didn't know there were different seals for post cars vs sedan or coupe wrecked the first set, the second and correct set fell in. I posted a thread with pix on mine, the tricky part is getting the vent window out of doors which required detaching the window mechanism and getting that put back was even more fun for a rookie. Then you have to be careful taking the vent window pivot nut off as it probably will be rusted, you don't want to break the stud off. Then I had my glass shop put the rivets back in so I wouldn't have to by the gun for two rivets, cost me a bottle of Screwball whiskey 😉

Reactions: 1

michaelfind

· #16 · 2 mo ago

geeteeohguy said:
THIS^^^. I've used them and they were an exact fit. Not two times thicker than OEM with the BS line that 'they'll compress and seat eventually." Metro, in my experience, are the way to go. As for Dyna-Mat, IMO, it is grossly over-priced. We did a '67 GTO hardtop 12 years ago with Frost King from Lowes for a total of $40. (Dyna-Mat at that time was about $800). We did the roof, the floors, the doors, and the quarters. Even with an HO engine and 3.55 gears, when we finished the car, it was the tightest and quietest GTO I've ever ridden in. And the interior was nice and cool as well. Keep in mind this car is in an area that sees over 100 degrees daily for 60-100 days a year, and in the 12 years since the install, the Frost King has stayed put. It comes in different widths and rolls, and applies with a tire patch roller and roller like Dyna-Mat.

armyadarkness said:
Im definitely not one to pay for names. If you can find a link or picture to the frost king product, please post it.

I'm searching Lowes for Frost King products and find lots of interesting items for windows and doors but nothing for floors or flat surfaces. I'm also very interested in whatever product y'all used Geeteeohguy. Sounds like a great deal.

Reactions: 1

armyadarkness

Discussion Starter · #17 · 2 mo ago

michaelfind said:
I'm searching Lowes for Frost King products and find lots of interesting items for windows and doors but nothing for floors or flat surfaces. I'm also very interested in whatever product y'all used Geeteeohguy. Sounds like a great deal.

I found it. For reference, the Dynamat kit is $180 and it does 36 sq feet.

The Frost King is $75 to do 45 square feet.

Food Ingredient Packaging and labeling Fluid Cuisine

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Sick467

· #18 · 2 mo ago

The frost King stuff looks like a nice option. I wonder if it uses a rubbery layer or if it is more of a squishy foam?

I have used duct insulation that looks and acted more like jute padding. It was more thick, less dense, and not self-adhesive, but had the foil backing on one side. I applied it to the roof with adhesive craft spray (3M). I applied it over some Peel & Seal that was applied directly to the painted steel surface.

MFM sells larger rolls of the Pee & Seal that mimics Dynomat. They are 36" wide and 33 feet long and run about $150 a roll. Looks like this...

Automotive lighting Water Rectangle Automotive exterior Auto part

It will do 100 sq feet. My only caution is to not use it in the doors. Since it is asphaltic, it cold get too hot and "let go". That would be a mess! I used it on the fire wall (over-covered by a firewall pad), on the roof (since the headliner and bows would support it if need be), on the floors, and trunk sides. I did this more than 10 years ago and the car has a black vinyl top and is my summertime driver on hot sunny days.

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lust4speed

· #19 · 2 mo ago

We did the red 67's vent windows and not only was it a total pain but now have a lot of wind noise that won't go away despite numerous adjustments to how tight the window was set. Both sides fit good, but the noise persists. Two others in the club that replaced the vent window seals also now have some wind noise. My blue GTO has original vent window seals and while they are hard with hairline cracks there is absolutely no noise. They look like they should leak but can't hear any wind noise. Sort of a no good deed goes unpunished installing new ones, and at least for now I'm leaving the vent seals alone on the blue car. If people could post up what brand of vent seal they used and the results it would help.

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michaelfind

· #20 · 2 mo ago

armyadarkness said:
I found it. For reference, the Dynamat kit is $180 and it does 36 sq feet.

The Frost King is $75 to do 45 square feet.

View attachment 163666

Thank you!

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