What does the stock M6 Dyno at??
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The M6 LS1 Goat dynos roughly between 290-300 rwhp, though I've seen as low as the 280s and as high as 308rwhp. Some of the variance is likely due to the way the motors come off the line, but a lot is also due to the type of dyno that was used. There are a bunch of different dynos out there and they don't all measure the same power output, even on the same car. ou also need to account for altitude, temperature, humidty, etc. at the time the car was run.
As far as RWHP, all motor mods (Heads, Cam, I/E/H and tune) can take you into the high 300s to low 400s depending on how wild you wanna get. More peak hp doesn't always equate to fast 1320 ETs. A good torque curve in important.
As far as RWHP, all motor mods (Heads, Cam, I/E/H and tune) can take you into the high 300s to low 400s depending on how wild you wanna get. More peak hp doesn't always equate to fast 1320 ETs. A good torque curve in important.
Thanks a ton Rhino. I just want to get to about 320 on the ground. This is to be close to the 400 hp goats and pass the stock C5's (my buddy has one, and talks sh*% about my goat 'cause it isn't a Vette 
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Don't have much Money to spend. Other than K&N Air Intake, what is another easy upgrade to get a little HP?
.Don't have much Money to spend. Other than K&N Air Intake, what is another easy upgrade to get a little HP?
WeightVader953 said:Thanks a ton Rhino. I just want to get to about 320 on the ground. This is to be close to the 400 hp goats and pass the stock C5's (my buddy has one, and talks sh*% about my goat 'cause it isn't a Vette
Don't have much Money to spend. Other than K&N Air Intake, what is another easy upgrade to get a little HP?
Even with the power absorbing loss suffered by the GTO vs. the Vette or F-Body, you'll still need over 330 rwhp on the dyno to be putting out 400 crank horses on an M6.
My car did 335 on a dyno with just a filter, exhaust, headers and a more agressive pump gas tune and later, the addition of a moderate cam and fairly mild heads got her up over 375 rwhp, for over 450 crank horses, give or take.
Aside from adding horses, you can shave weight and increase traction as ways to get your speed up. I think I saw somewhere that a very high level rule of thumb is that every 15 pounds is about 1 hp and that every 7hp is a tenth. Ergo, every 100 pounds you cut is like adding 5-7hp, plus you increase your traction, especially if you are dropping weight off the front. Lighter wheels, skid plate removal, fiberglass hood, and you've gained horsepower, increased mileage and boosted your traction. Put some grippy 275s out back and you've effectively increased your ability to get down teh 1320 even more.
My car did 335 on a dyno with just a filter, exhaust, headers and a more agressive pump gas tune and later, the addition of a moderate cam and fairly mild heads got her up over 375 rwhp, for over 450 crank horses, give or take.
Aside from adding horses, you can shave weight and increase traction as ways to get your speed up. I think I saw somewhere that a very high level rule of thumb is that every 15 pounds is about 1 hp and that every 7hp is a tenth. Ergo, every 100 pounds you cut is like adding 5-7hp, plus you increase your traction, especially if you are dropping weight off the front. Lighter wheels, skid plate removal, fiberglass hood, and you've gained horsepower, increased mileage and boosted your traction. Put some grippy 275s out back and you've effectively increased your ability to get down teh 1320 even more.
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Vader953 said:Thanks a ton Rhino. I just want to get to about 320 on the ground. This is to be close to the 400 hp goats and pass the stock C5's (my buddy has one, and talks sh*% about my goat 'cause it isn't a Vette
Don't have much Money to spend. Other than K&N Air Intake, what is another easy upgrade to get a little HP?
It is going to take more than 320rwhp to beat a vette if he knows how to drive. The weight of the GTO is what kills the car. Probably would take upwards of 340rwhp to handle even a stock vette
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