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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Is it me? I know my reaction times suck! this is the first time ive done 1/4 mile. but it seems my car would be closer to the 13.3 car, that car and driver says it is.
I ran the car several times and 14.0 was the best I could do.
I ran against my friends charger R/T all day and it was never close except the one time where I had to back my car up to stage corectly, by the time I got it shifted corectly and looked up the lights were falling and my reaction time was horrid .763 while my buddie dialed up a .154, I really didnt catch him till the end of the trac. that video is one of the ones I uploaded. im car 422 btw

 

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Reaction time has no effect on elapsed time. Elapsed time starts when reaction time ends.

Your 60 foot times are a little weak. Stickier tires would solve that.

My guess is from the videos, you were racing in the heat of the day. It was in the 90's here in Florida, I'd guess high 80's were possible in Texas. If the temps were that high it would affect the power your car was making. You weren't breaking 100 mph and were about 6-8 mph slow so that means you were down about 50-70 hp from where you should have been. His Charger was about 4-5 mph from where it should have been.

My guess is, a cool day, stickier tires, a bunch of practice and you'll be where you should be. The LS2 is very sensistive to heat.
 

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What do you have for mods? I'm not a very experienced drag racer but the best I've been able to put down on stock tires is a 13.29. I have a CAI, drag bags and the SLP rear sway bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What do you have for mods? I'm not a very experienced drag racer but the best I've been able to put down on stock tires is a 13.29. I have a CAI, drag bags and the SLP rear sway bar.
my car is 100% stock.... after the first few runs i took the paper air filter out just to see if i could get it into the 13 teens ... was never seccessful. 14.0 was the first and fastest run of the day ... we did let the cars cool down for a bit ... but didnt make much of a difference. comming off the freeway and onto the strip was my fastest time.:willy:
 

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More so then the rest of the LS family ie. LS1, LS3, etc? What would be the cause of that?
I've played this out in my mind and I'm not certain. I've owned two Corvettes with the LS2 and a GTO. I've owned 3 f-Bodies with the LS1 and 2 LS6 cars. Never had an LS3 so I can't speak for them.

My LS1 f-bodies were the least affected by heat. In every LS1 car I've had I opened up a shroud that across the top of the radiator and under the intake. Once it's opened up you can see straight through to the pavement and the car pull air from in front of the radiator and condensor and it gets that air from the front deflector that is below the radiator. In effect a cool air ram air. I'm sure that helped them out.

At 50-60 degrees my F-bodies would run real low 13.0's to high 12's. At 70 degrees they would run 13.0-13.2 and with it in the upper 80's they would run 13.2-13.4. That's with a CAI and a cat back plus what is called the free ram air mod that I described above. So from 50 to let's say 85+ degrees they would lose about 3 tenths.

My GTO ran a best of 12.895 and typically with temps in the low 60's high 50's ran 13.0-13.1. With temps in the 70's it would run 13.3 and when it got up into the upper 80's it ran 13.5-13.7. It was bone stock right down to the paper filter except for two holes I drilled in the airbox to let more air into it. So over the same range the F- body lost 3 to 4 tenths the LS2 GTO lost 6 tenths.

The C6 Vettes did a bit better than the GTO but still lost more than the F-body's. They wen from a best of 12.5-12.6 to a worst of 12.9-13.0. Figure a solid 4 tenths with stock intakes on the cars over the same 30 degree change in temps.

The LS6 goes from 11.9-12.4 over the same temps but it's a high 11.9 and a low 12.4 so the change is more like 4 tenths.

I think mostly in the GTO's case it's where the intake is located and the way air flows into the engine compartment. It doesn't cool very well and the F-body does a better job of pulling cool air in from before the radiator and exposing that cool air to as little heat as possible before it hits the engine.

That would explain why the GTO is affected by higher temps more than the LS2 C6 cars. But the LS2 C6 cars and the LS6 C5 cars are affected by temps more than the LS1 F-body cars and they both have similar intakes. They all three pull cool air from in front of the radiator and take it straight back into the engine. My LS6 cars have intakes and pull fresh cool air from the front bumper like the LS1 F-Bodies.

The only thing I can come up with is the LS2 and LS6 have programing that cuts timing more aggressively in heat than the LS1. I'm not sure you can or would want to program that out in that it might affect longevity of the motor. The higher rpms of the LS2 and LS6 over the LS1 might make it a bit more sensitive to detonation that can occur from higher intake temperatures.

The only way to tell for certain would be to get two GTO's, one LS1 and the other LS2 and see which is more affected by heat or if they are about the same.
 

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HEAT is your problem. When heatsoaked the computer pulls a LOT of timing. You might want to try a predator tune or similar. That will help a little bit with the timing and you might want to try relocating your Intake air temperature sensor to a less heatsoaking prone area. You can also remove the plastic radiator cover and the plugs in the hood while you are at the track so more air can get to the engine bay to help cool things off a little. And dont use the traction control or the launch control crap because it sucks.
I can consistantly run in the 13.40's when heatsoaked... IAT temps up in the 140's which is pretty hot. I will run worse sometimes but that is due to driving errors. And the track isnt open long enough for me to sit there and let the car cool off as cool as i want it. And what little bit of cooling off I get after I get to the staging lanes and wait and pull up and wait some more its heated all back up again. I have to drive over a hour to get there.
 

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what do yall think about red line water wetter
Redline water wetter works great if you have an overheating issue. You aren't overheating, your water temps are just fine, your intake air temps are too high. You need an air cooler.

Look at what RJ_05GTO posted. That's how you keep the underhood air cool. While at the track, if your car isn't moving have the hood open to circulate air under the hood, but your intake temps are causing the computer to pull timing. That's the biggest problem you have.
 

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I've played this out in my mind and I'm not certain. I've owned two Corvettes with the LS2 and a GTO. I've owned 3 f-Bodies with the LS1 and 2 LS6 cars. Never had an LS3 so I can't speak for them..
Really? Wow, that's some deep pockets..
 

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Something else you can do is pop the hood on the return road as your going back to the pits, Don't raise the hood til your back into your parking space though, This will allow more air into the engine bay as your idling down the return road, I also ice down the intake between rounds, A diablo predator tuner will help with the tune, These cars are not tuned right at all from the factory, I had mine on the dyno bone stock 330 rwhp 319 rwtq, after getting the fuel and timing set right 355 rwhp and 360 rwtq, Getting a real dyno tune would help not only the performance but gas mileage as well, I would also suggest a set of drag radials, The Nitto's you can use on your stock rims and they work great on a dailey driver in the rain, The plus about them is you don't have use dragbags or alter your fenders and beat the inner fender in to get them to fit, The 245's or 275's fit perfect, Its all in the first 60' then the rest will come. You might also try making the back of the car squat alittle by putting your left foot on the brake and giving it alittle gas with your right foot, But not too much or you will push the starting light beam and red light, I've managed to get 1.9 60's with the stock tires, But I also have a stall converter as well, I also leave the traction control off, Because if you start to spin it will pull timing and fuel from the engine, Good luck.
 
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