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Hi Folks. Getting ready to change the break in oil on a 67 but I read recently that a lot of the blends out there now have some of the addatives removed that these old engines need. Does anyone have a suggested brand? thanks for your help.
 

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Hi Folks. Getting ready to change the break in oil on a 67 but I read recently that a lot of the blends out there now have some of the addatives removed that these old engines need. Does anyone have a suggested brand? thanks for your help.
There are a few oils out there that have the ZDD in it. Brad Penn, Shell Rotela that many recommend to name 2. I had used Valvoline 50 weight racing oil in the past which has it in it as well when I had an oil leaking issue.

I have a few years worth of ZDD+ additive on my shelf here I will add to the 30 weight oil I am now using but plan on using Brad Penn once my stock runs out.
 

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Factory fill was SAE 20 or 10w-30. That was then. When oil protected your engine, not the catalytic converter. I use Rotella diesel spec with an additional ZDDP additive. The viscosity is 15w-40. Brad Penn would be a fine choice, and no need for the additive in that case. Stay away from the so-called "racing" oils, and the 20/50 grades....JMHO.
 

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Stay away from the so-called "racing" oils, and the 20/50 grades....JMHO.
Any reason you would recommend against them? Pickings are slim north of the border for oils with higher ZDD in them (at least around here), but I was able to order Valvoline VR1 20W50 racing oil from a local parts store, which is what I used when I did the first oil change on my new goat just before spring.

When reading about it last fall, it seemed to be split 50/50 on diesel oils. Brad Penn oil wasn't available anywhere locally (not sure if it's even available in Canada) and I don't want to get into something I have to mail order. I'm also interested in hearing what commercially/readily available ZDD oils are out there that may come recommeded. I'd really like to avoid having to use an additive.
 

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Had the engine removed for a rear seal job and valvetrain noise. Ended up with new lifters (some were faulty), new valves (tips were mushroomed) new pushrods, and on breakin had cam failure (had left in the prior cam, which many I find would advise against (me too, now). The failure occurred with Shell Rotella T 15W-40, which supposedly has sufficient ZDDP, an issue I was aware of before the 1st try. Most don't suspect the oil as the culprit in cam wipeout, so it's still a candidate IMO.

Nonetheless, on restart with a new cam and new lifters, I went with Joe Gibbs breakin oil BR1. After about another 1 hour of driving, I changed to the Joe Gibbs HR1 10W30 synsthetic (there's also a non-synthetic). The HR oils are for street cars w/o catalytic converters, include correct mount of ZDDP for flat tappets, and are not the same as his oils designed for full bore racing. I presume form looking around that both are very good for each application. Lots of info on his site.
 

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The valvoline VR-1 that Napa and O'Reilly has in stock in California has minimal if any ZDDP in it. It is inadequate for flat tappet engines. The only VR-1 that qualifies is the stuff that says "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY" on the bottle, and I can't get that over the counter in California. If you're using the "off road" stuff, fine. The regular VR-1...forget it.
 

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The valvoline VR-1 that Napa and O'Reilly has in stock in California has minimal if any ZDDP in it. It is inadequate for flat tappet engines. The only VR-1 that qualifies is the stuff that says "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY" on the bottle, and I can't get that over the counter in California. If you're using the "off road" stuff, fine. The regular VR-1...forget it.
The oil they sell at Napa here in Novato, CA has 1400 ppm zinc and
1300 ppm phosporus which is more than enough for a flat tappet cam. They do not make a special blend for CA.

Call Valvoline tech at (800) 832-6825
 

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I dunno what the total ratio of ZDD+ is to 6 qts of oil included in each quart but:

I use one 4oz bottle of ZDD+ per 6 QTS Castrol 10W40. This is adequate according to the bottle. I would think 4 ounces of ZDD+ per pre-mixed 6 QTS oil would suffice. This equates to just over 1/2 an ounce per 1 qt bottle of oil.
 

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engine oil

I am currently using Brad Penn 20W50 which i get at Stinson fuels in Ottawa Ontario Canada.I used to use Royal Purple 10W40 but got tired of the cost of dumping perfectly good oil down the drain after each season.The arguement of what oil to use will never end (conventional,semi-synthetic or a full synthetic).I choose to use a good oil and premium filter and change often.
 

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I'll change oil in the spring and run all season with it approx 1500 miles.
Right now: Castrol GTX 10W40 / ZDD+ additive / AC Delco filter.

Is it perfectly good oil going down the drain? Yea, probably but keeping it fresh will help with this 41 year old motor. The interior was spotless when it was apart and if throwing good oil down the drain after driving it 8 months and 1500 miles or so then for me its peace of mind and I'll keep it fresh. Just my .02.
 

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Yep, oil is cheap compared to a rebuild. And you can't put a price on peace of mind.......
 

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I am currently using Brad Penn 20W50 which i get at Stinson fuels in Ottawa Ontario Canada.I used to use Royal Purple 10W40 but got tired of the cost of dumping perfectly good oil down the drain after each season.The arguement of what oil to use will never end (conventional,semi-synthetic or a full synthetic).I choose to use a good oil and premium filter and change often.
if it was perfectly good what did you accomplish by changing it? i run synthetic in my mercedes and change it at about 15000 miles. i change the filter every 5000.
 

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it might just be me, but i dont order steaks and eat two bites and throw the rest away. i dont use a couple paper towels and throw the roll away. i dont take a couple showers and throw the soap away. i dont watch a few shows and throw my tv away. but maybe i should, better safe than sorry right?
 

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Don't get me wrong i think Synthetic oils have ther place.The engines in today,s vehicles are much more efficient than 40 year old V8's.What i meant to say is that the oil gets washed down with fuel so i really do not see how i benifit from using a synthetic oil.I can change my oil 3 times a year for the cost of one change using Royal Purple.Brad Penn has high levels of ZDDP and seams to improve my oil pressure.Believe me i change the oil in my GTO every in the spring and every 2000 miles if i drive it allot.Just my 2 cents
 

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yeah the mercedes is a bad example but i dont understand changing oil just because its a certain time on the calender. heck geeteeoh guy had his bearings in his hand and didnt change them. i like that guy.:cheers
 

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Don't get me wrong i think Synthetic oils have ther place.The engines in today,s vehicles are much more efficient than 40 year old V8's.What i meant to say is that the oil gets washed down with fuel so i really do not see how i benifit from using a synthetic oil.I can change my oil 3 times a year for the cost of one change using Royal Purple.Brad Penn has high levels of ZDDP and seams to improve my oil pressure.Believe me i change the oil in my GTO every in the spring and every 2000 miles if i drive it allot.Just my 2 cents
Have you ever heard of John Sawruk? John was the foremost Pontiac expert. John recommended NEVER use synthetic oils in these old motors. He touched on the reasons why at seminars he gave. He didn't touch on this topic at the seminars of his I attended but others I know did and learned why not to use them.

A local performance motor rebuilder also recommends not to use them.

Many swear by the synthetics in these motors. I opt to listen to those like the late John Sawruk and heed their advice.

John Sawruk - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
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