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Discussion Starter #1
....and this might as well be a FOR SALE thread

I am going to get rid of my Pontiac 455 and go in a whole different direction, and i am not really sure how much i may be able to get out of it if i sold it as is.

The engine will come complete, along with a transmission and the complete fuel system, i rebuilt it myself about 3 years ago, and i haven't had any hiccups with it. It runs great for a stock engine, and about a month ago i had a good friend tune the carburetor for me and it runs top notch. I start it when i can and let it run for a while and rev it up a few times just to keep everything lubed up.

here is a run down of what was installed when i built it.

1974 Pontiac 455 block, bored .060 over
brand new stock spec pistons
1 new stock rod (machinist said one of them was out of spec)
Stock crank
Clevitte 77 rod, cam, crank bearings, and piston rings
brand new single roller timing chain set
stock 4x heads (3 angle valve job)
Crane Cams cam and lifter set part #105072 216/216 @ 050 lift; 454/454 dur.

Crane Cams valve springs
Comp pushrods
Edelbrock P4B intake (performer)
Edelbrock 750cfm, electric choke, vacuum secondary carb. (1 year old)
Russell drop down fuel tube, permashine 90* and straight -6AN fittings and 3~ feet Braided line
Holley "Blue" fuel pump and regulator/ Summit "canister style" filter/ Billet Specialties inline -6AN Male/Male fuel filter
Edelbrock "classic" 14" chrome air cleaner w/ K&N filter
Edelbrock cast Aluminum valve covers w/ Butler perf. 5/16'' gaskets
AutoZone "high performance" water pump
Butler perf. Billet alum. fuel pump block off plate w/ studs (previously stripped threads, so studs were epoxy'd in)
Ebay chrome oil pan (small dent in front)
O'Reilleys REMAN distributor w/ accel ignition module

Transmission:Stock 400 from a 67 GTO. Has a new chrome oil pan, gasket, and filter.


I think thats about it, just looking to see about how much i should ask for it, thanks guys!

There are a few things different in this picture than what it actually looks like now, but you get the idea
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk142/67goatman455/GTO/Picture001.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
no one?

l probably end up putting it on Craigslist, i wanna know where i should start. i dont want to end up selling it to cheap. I was thinking in the $1k range but i'm starting to wonder if i should double that for a starting point
 

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Your issue will likely be how you can assure the buyer that this is all in good running order. If I was buying (and I did 2 years ago) as the buyer I would assume it all needs to be rebuilt. Under that assumption, you will be lucky to see $500, especially when you say the engine is already .60 over. If you can provide the potential buyers some data like compression tests, and/or recent operating information that you would stand behind for a period of time (like 3 months) that will help you. If you have such information and are prepared to offer such a guarantee I would start at 2k or more. In such a circumstance, asking more indicates it's in great condition. A low price says it needs work. Just one man's opinion. Hal
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Your issue will likely be how you can assure the buyer that this is all in good running order. If I was buying (and I did 2 years ago) as the buyer I would assume it all needs to be rebuilt. Under that assumption, you will be lucky to see $500, especially when you say the engine is already .60 over. If you can provide the potential buyers some data like compression tests, and/or recent operating information that you would stand behind for a period of time (like 3 months) that will help you. If you have such information and are prepared to offer such a guarantee I would start at 2k or more. In such a circumstance, asking more indicates it's in great condition. A low price says it needs work. Just one man's opinion. Hal
Thats understandable. I still start it when i can. So i guess a compression check and maybe a video of it running would be good. Or even let the potential buyer see it running before i take it out of the car?
 

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Or even let the potential buyer see it running before i take it out of the car?
Any of those options will increase the probability of a better offer. If you have the opportunity to have the buyer start and move the vehicle, and let them do whatever tests they like (if their serious), that will help a lot. Put yourself in the buyer's postion: what would increase your confidence?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Any of those options will increase the probability of a better offer. If you have the opportunity to have the buyer start and move the vehicle, and let them do whatever tests they like (if their serious), that will help a lot. Put yourself in the buyer's postion: what would increase your confidence?
ok thanks. i cant move the vehicle, but i can have them start it in the car.

But back to the main question. what should i start trying to sell it at price wise?
 

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But back to the main question. what should i start trying to sell it at price wise?
Given what you have said and described, I suggest asking $2,000 for motor with the buyer having the ability to test the motor running in the car (stopped). You might ask another $500 for the transmission claming it operational but if you can't move the car it cannot be tested. Then you negotiate from there. Hal
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Discussion Starter #9
you would have an easier time selling if it was pontiac blue....
ya i know.... the red didn't stick anyways. i got a lot of flack when it was pontiac blue, so i decided to try something a little different. I plan on swapping in an LSX and painting it pontiac blue. I think it would be kinda cool. anyways ill put it up for sale soon. If anyone is interested shoot me a PM. Thanks for the help guys.
 
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