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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As my Goat gets closer to being on the road for the first time im wondering what I should do first.
Pay to fix actually. As this all is going to require multiple trips over the comming months as money is tight
I had to send my rebuilt carb back cause of leakage at the throttle shaft. (with less than ! hour on the fresh motor(maybe my external filter is clogged already?)
If I can get my brakes bled to where they dont leak........after I had the 4 piston calipers rebuilt.
I dont even know if the tranny works (the pan leaks pretty bad)
I know the drivers side axle bearing or axle itself is bad, as with the drum off it moves side to side almost 3/16ths of an inch and I want the limited slip Diff lube changed out
I have a coolant leak I cant fix for the life of me.
On of the header to exhaust bolts need a stud welded in......
sigh
where should I start?
thanks as always
 

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Former Moderator
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2,895 Posts
I'd fix your axle first, then drive up and buy a couple cans of stop leak. :D

What kind of leak at the throttle shaft? Fuel or air? If it's leaking fuel your fuel pressure is too high. If it's air, well... they did'nt bush the throttle shafts or the shaft is worn and should have been replaced when it was rebuilt.
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Fuel........the guy and several here says its probably dirt on the needle valve or the float sticking.
The fuel tank sat empty for over 15 years.
could my external filter (between the tank and pump be clogged only after running an hour?
thanks as always
 

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Premium Member
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4,703 Posts
YES, the filter can be clogged, as you aren't really sure how clean the tank is. I WOULD pull the rear axle and examine the seal, bearing,race, and axle....and replace as necessary. WHILE all this is taking place, I would send the carb (Q-jet ?) to Cliff Ruggles( or someone local who knows carbs) and get it serviced properly.
I WOULD wait until the rear wheel bearing is done, and the motor is running again to fix the tranny leak. Why fix the leak if you think the tranny is bad? If it is "bad" have it rebuilt. Wherer are your brakes leaking from?? AFTER the engine is running again, you will be able to check the tranny out. Sound like a plan? Uncle E ( who loves to spend your money AND drink your booze!)
 

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Fuel........the guy and several here says its probably dirt on the needle valve or the float sticking.
The fuel tank sat empty for over 15 years.
could my external filter (between the tank and pump be clogged only after running an hour?
thanks as always
Yes, change it, cut the old one open and look for "stuff" inside.
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Uncle E.
Sounds like a plan.
It's a very small leak but there is always some on the bottom rear of the oil pan, I thought it was from one of the hoses for the heater core.
The seemed to always be some on the rear of the valley pan too. until now, the radiator is dowm a bit. I put some fresh towels on my drip pan and will let you know,
I just cant pin it down.
How do I cut open the fuel filter safely?
ps gonna try bleeding the brakes again tomorrow, as I havnt really tried since have the front 4 piston calipers rebuilt :)
thanks as always
 

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Drop the gas tank and take a look inside. You probably need a new one. Or clean and coat it. Your pickup probably also shot. I would bleed the brakes, fix the leaks and do all the little stuff. Then drive the car off of a gas can til you get the gas issue sorted out.
You've done/restored every other part of the car, why stop now and not finish the fuel system.
Gas leaking out the shafts is the carb dumping excess fuel, the carb is probably fine, needle/seat stuck and dumping fuel. Look for smoke coming out of the carb when you turn it off, that's the carb burning up the dumped fuel.
 

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64-67 Expert
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8,569 Posts
The axle has to be removed and checked out. The bearing is what holds the axle in place, and when they get sloppy, you lose and axle while driving. It's happened to me twice over the years. Be warned: if it's loose, you probably need a new axle, too. The bearings generally chew up the shaft and are no longer a "press on" fit. You've done a tone of work and you're really close. You'll get there, one step at a time. How to bleed your brakes: remove the master cyl cap and top off fluid. Go to right rear whell cylinder, and open bleeder. Open a Longboard Pale Ale. Take a sip. Contemplate the Great Wet Pacific NorthWest, crabfeeds, GTO's, and more beer. Take another sip of beer. Walk around to the right rear and see if it's dripping. If it is, close the bleeder and crack open the left rear and repeat. If it isn't dripping yet, take another sip, relax, and wait. It will drip eventually. Now open another beer, top off the master cyl, (leave the top off so the fluid will flow better by gravity) and do the fronts the same way. If you have ANY brake fluid leaks, none of this will work. The system most be leak free. You can wash the brake fluid off your backing plates with plain water.....it'll leave no trace. Heck, you should be able to get the brakes bled out at the cost of about 2 beers. If the calipers leak, send them back!!!!
 

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RIP (12/27/60-7/18/15)
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767 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
It seems the decision has been made for me.
The "Carb Shop" called and told me my carb was dirtied up from contaminated fuel.
He cleaned it AGAIN for free but this voids my warrantee.
Even with an inline filter an the filter on the carb.
(the tank sat dry for over 16 years except for the 5 gallons of LL I put in it.)
I only had and hr on the carb too.........
so thats that
stay tuned
ps if I do chose to run the motor out of say my spare plastic boat gas tank, I guess the trunk is the best place to put it? And will rubber fuel line sufice for the time being?
thanks as always
 
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